ok so i have a ka24e with new timing chain and replaced injectors, new fuel pump… heres the problem
say im idling, or even driving at 2000rpm, if i give it gas, the rpms fail to go up smoothly and quickly but the engine misses a couple of times for about one second before proceeding to go up
so say im in neutral idling, floor it, it misses, hops 500 rpm, misses again, hops 500 rpm, than stutters and finally revs up
i also feel a power loss… what do you think could be the problem ? i have a good distributor cap and rotor and spark plugs that i recently replaced, clean air filter and a cat converter thats working properly
i have had idling problems for the past half a year
what do you guys think ?
(just for the info, i dont have money for sr so no time for sr swap posts lol)
im not a mechanic but i would say your fuel pump is not pumping at the psi it should be, or the wiring… ive had a fuel pump failure and replaced it and for some reason it felt like shit but then it got rated at like 20 something psi which is below normal and it felt slugish but then got it replaced by a walboro 255 and things were good… could also be one of your cylinders arent sparking… ive had that issues and car sounded like a beast LOL!!.. dont know honestly, not good at trouble shooting problems
i already had that problem lol with the fuel pump and i got a walbro 255 in my car now as well lol, thanks for the tip though, but you could be right one of the cylinders probably isnt spraking all the time… if its not my cap and rotor what do you guys think it might be… i’ll check wires and plugs, but how can i test a ignition coil ?
theres no corrosion i checked, where exactly are you talking about ? on the actual sending unit cover there are no more terminals when i did the walbro swap i put the wires through the holes and used butt connectors on them…
just for the info, i blow my cat converter gaskets like monthly, i even put the liquid gasket on top of them now on both sides, cause they just keep getting burned out at one spot, is this a sign of improper combustion or what, also this missing doesnt always happen, so far its been in wet weather at night usually after driving it for a bit
It is 99.9% likely to be an electrical problem in the ignition.
When problems crop up with moisture, it’s almost always the case.
Next time it’s happening, take off your distributor cap and look inside it for signs of moisture.
I’d also look at your plug wires, ignition coil and the transistor. (the little black box thingy that is connected to the coil … I’m a bit out of my head right now, can’t remember if it’s a transformer, transistor, or amplifier)
Fuel problems are usually load dependant and not very erratic.
But it is possible that the wiring is fouling up somewhere. If you’re running out of ideas, run new wiring for the fuel pump.
Problems that come and go can be very hard to diagnose.
Worse come to worse, take your car through a car wash to get it wet and see if the problem crops up.
i was coming to that its an ignition problem too that its not firing properly, i will check for moisture as you said, check all spark plugs for cracks and make sure they all look ok, check all wires for shortage, and check the power to the coil, thanks, i will update once i have done so
ok guys i did a few things today, heres the update, sprayed mist water all over distributor, spark plug wires, coil, coil harness to check for shortages and found nothing, cone filter is fairly new and attached well, spark plugs all in good looking condition, fuel pump wiring is ok, fuel pump is ok, i did a test drive, and it does it still, also, the car has a power loss and eats gasoline which im guessing is because its running rich for the same reason, maybe the maf sensor ? whats the best way to check that ? thanks again guys
did you line up the dizzy correctly? you said it has a new chain… Did you change it? if hard timing is out it will do that… also, is the firing order correct? Check the O2 as well.
the timing chain was done by a good shop last winter, i know everything was done right, is there a need to get the ignition timing checked ? the car has been tracked 6 times in the 2005 season, could it have gone out of tune that much, i dont even know what to adjust there, its a mechanical distributor with no electronic components to it that runs off a spiral gear in the timing chain cover, i changed the rotor and the cap myself in the summer ? i dont think there is anything adjustable there. i am going to check o2, crank case, idle system, maf asap. how do i check the sensors ? i can clean out the harness plugs and maybe take them off make sure nothing is damaged, i have no clue how to use the multimeter to check if they are operating correctly
WOW… Okay, so as far I as I can remember, the O2 for that car is like 30 bucks… You could just grab one and change it… Or check the codes on the ECM…
Do you have an FSM?
Have you googled your problems? Without a working knowledge of this thing, you will have a hard time throwing stones at it on line.
Take it to a shop if all else fails, ask them to tell you whats wrong and nothing else, then go from there. If the shops any good it will cost you one or two hours labour.
If not, bring it to me (MSSC) and I’ll look at it and scratch my head, have a smoke, and i wont charge you for it.
Hope you get your problem fixed Vlad! I just went thru what you are going thru now… I did everything (changed plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter, TPS, Catalytic etc) to trace down a similar problem that ended up being a timing issue.
done nothing yet as of the last post, its too cold outside, ialmost died doing an oil change, but heres an update on how its running, when i give it gas engaging the clutch in 1st gear it feels like its gonna stall, its extra loud, and takes more gas than usual, when i jsut slam it in 2nd, it stutters and almost stalls out, my plan is to check compression, check the o2 sensor, check for vacuum leaks, and clean the tb, than if the problem is still not fixed, im gonna check the maf and do ecu diagnostics
haha.