Only problem Jov, is that timing doesn’t usually get retarded on its own.
Lack of advance was the problem. By bumping your base timing up, the motor is seeing more “advance” but it’s still not actually getting advanced as it should.
I’m not 100% on computer controlled vehicles like the 86 or the 240, but I know with old-school dizzy setups you can just hook up a timing light, check static/base timing, then rev the motor to 3,000+ RPM (where mechanical advance occurs) to see the total timing.
Sometimes it’s tricky to see, but as long as you see the timing advance noticeably, you know it’s working as it should.
Computer controlled vehicles don’t use vacuum or mechanical advance. The ECU via some sort of sensor will determine when to advance. It may be throttle position sensitive, or load based, or many other variables.
If your not seeing any change from your static timing, something is bunked up in the system.
hmmm… can my fuel pump already be going ? i just swapped in a walbro 255 in the spring, it was brand new ebayed. i was thinking about timing too, its as if its not sparking at the right moment, and its really loud too, sometimes when i hit it, it just almost stalls out. anyway, i dont see how the timing could retard, its a timing chain, it cant slip like a belt, with distributor, unlike like DE on my dads s14, my E has no electronic components on the distributor what so ever. so i dont know what can be messed there, the distributor runs off the spiral gear inside the timing cover. what do you guys think ?
Well, Walbros don’t last very long … but it shouldn’t have died already.
Hmm … Shady-Bay might have struck again.
How is the wiring to the pump?
The S13 still has a ton of computer-involved timing adjustments.
But the CAS makes itself pretty obvious when it goes.
It does kind of sound like a vacuum leak though. It’s really hard to tell over the internet.
How are your injector leads? I know they get pretty bad for corrosion and then sometimes they just get loose. I’ve had more than a few where if you jiggle the injector harness it comes back to life.
Have you checked the ECU self-diagnostic?
Have you changed your coil/wires?
Check the condition of the spark … it should be white/blue and jump a half decent gap.
Other than that, I’d say hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see how she’s doing.
edit: when i was checking the compression and the gauge was near the little intake venter box that has a tube that runs to the airbox, its directly behind it, its held by a metal bracket, and for some reason it sparked to the gauge when i was cranking, the block is ground, and the bracket is metal ? also ground ? whats going on ? im gonna check the wiring harness around there, as if its leaking off the ignition coil onto the body somewhere
next thing im gonna check is the ignition coil harness, o2 sensor, vacuum leaks. how should i check the o2 sensor properly ?
yeah it has been idling like ass for almost a year now! it revs up and down on its own and when i let off the gas it goes to 2000 instead of 1000 and then a second later drops, and i also think it could be a wiring problem, heres how i came at it
drifting on saturday night and went over a snowbank in mid drift, driving home ? wtf ? its fixed, no problem ? ok, 3 days of driving like a maniac and its not there
today was drifting after school, did some rough driving again, its back, i have a feeling its a wire somewhere thats wiggling around and shorting out the circuit somewhere, i am going to check the fuel pump harness more throughly, check the ignition coil harness, and change spark plug wires, looking to buy spark plugs wires for the ka24e.
started cleaning the harnesses, they seem to be full of this white oily substance ? wtf ? it wont scratch or wipe off, im wondering what kind of cleaner i should use to clean the terminals off all that shit, i remember in my coop shop we used spray cans with some kinda stuff in it, does anyone know what its called i wanna go to canadian tire and grab some
It’s really starting to sound like there’s a grounding issue. If metal pieces on the motor are discharging like that, it sounds like the engine ground is pretty much not there.
the white greasy stuff is an electrical conductor. you dont wanna clean it off.
if you are talking about a white/bluish powdery residue near your battery, then that is corrosion. the best way to clean the bat. posts and terminals is with baking soda & vinegar and then apply petroleum jelly aka vaseline before you re-attach.