she started up, rpm’s flogged down, came back up again, and then stalled out right after.
then i tried to start it up again and it wont turn over, just tries to.
starter dead?
i usually start it up every few days and let it run.
thanks guys
since she started up the first time, the starter should have been eliminated, ie, no longer in use.
which leads me to think it may be th battery,. but i have all acesories, lights, everything. the batetry is fully charged.
so im sure the starter and battery are fine as the car cranks, but the motor wont fire.
i can hear the fuel pump priming and i knwo theres gas in it, so perhaps th sprk plugs are shot? maybe low compression and the timing belt is done?
anybody in the niagara region with a spakr tester, fuel pressure gauge, and compression tester wnna help me out it would be appretiated. i dont have any of these tools and have never used them before.
thanks
.
hey, so you mean it wont even crank if you try and start it now? Or do you mean when you turn your key, the starter doesnt even try to start the car? sorry if im reading wrong.
ca?
pull the CAS on the ca with the car turned in the on position, rotate the shaft on the cas, listen for injectors firing. This ill rule out fuel.
Check ic piping etc for leaks, check vaccuum lines for leaks, check coils.
If you suspesct the timing belt pull the cover off and see if it’s in 1 peice.
Check tps, and maf.
cant here the timing belt, so i ruled it out.
she cranks, just no fire.
we threw in some gas line antifreeze, and she sputtered a tad
then the battery had enough at that point
doubt it spark or compression sicne it fired this morning but died shortly after.
im pretty sure we’ve narrowed it down to fuel.
i read that pulling of the cas shouldnt be done by an amatuer. ie me.
can you elaborate a tad further lucky?
Im going with IACV… the cold air idle will not kick in hence why the car died right after and would not start back up.
why?
Theres nothen hard about pull in the CAS, the 3 10mm and pop her out. When you pull the cas, See if the cam knotch broke off. I broke 2 this summer.
keep the engine running, fluids cycling.
ill be checking her out tommarow, put in some gas line antifreeze, and she sputtered a tad but never fired still. then the battery gave out on me for the night.
so the following have been ruled out
cold air idle - talked to my mechanic, he said doubt it
he also said if i pulled off the cas that it would be very tough to hear the injectors fire.
pulled off the fuel filter and sun of a bitch was spitting fuel everywhere
pulled off the plugs, spark was definately not an issue.
still on the hunch of no fuel, from the filter it travels through the lines going aruond the manifold and into the fuel rail. correct? then onto the injectors?
if one injector is bad, it would still start. the chances of all four going bad in 2 days, million to one.
perhaps an electrical problem? something computerized maybe?
i recently put in an ecu that was said to be tuned by this company up north to run on the 370cc’s with stock mafs and turbo, but utilized fuel and timing for that setuop.
put the oem ecu back in and still nothing.
any ideas?
Flash the ECU…
I still think its the Cold Air Idle… (makes perfect sense) if you get a code 25 then it is infact the IACV.
And dont listen to your Mechanic… I had nurmous tell me my IACV was perfectly fine but not one of them had a diagostic tool to even check. Once I had one hooked up I proved them all wrong.
what can i use to flash it? and what code is a ca18det ecu?
obd I obd II
sniff the tail pipe after cranking the engine over for a bit, see if you can smell fuel.
you’re doing more harm to your engine than good…
How is he doing more harm than good?
Rule out the Iacv, I doupt it. Pull that CAS, it’s not uncommon to break that gear on the cam. If you weren’t all the way in fort erie, I would get it up and running for you, but ya there is no real reason to start it but know I guess you just want to know it runs again.
your mechanic is an idiot. sorry. IT EVEN SAYS TO PULL THE CAS OFF IN THE FSM. Pull the cas of, put the car in ON postion, do not crank, then rotate the drive on the cas to test injectors. Step 2, shove a fsm in your mechanic’s face . YOU WILL HEAR THE INJECTORS.
As for tuned for 370’s, the car runs 370’s stock on a ca.
lol ill give that a god tommarow lucky
i knwo the stock injectors are 370cc, it was tuned to maximize the fuel and timing curve based on the oem injectors, or so im told.
oem ecu is in now.
creates moisture… unless you’re gonna drive it for a good 30 minutes or so, just let it sleep.
when i start it i let it idle for 30 mins at the least.
the mini panasonic batrtery loses charge every 2-3 days due to the counteract rust system if i dont run it.
going to try everyone suggestions tommarow when my buddy comes over.
hoppefully she’ll fire.