Lower ball joint question

I went to my shop today to install upgraded upper control arms as it was apparent that the front lift / leveling kit was creating a situation where my upper control arm / ball joint was at an odd angle. Seemed like it was being stretched to it’s limit. I’m putting my new plow on in a week or two and I wanted to make sure it wasn’t going to create a potential problem with the ball joint, as well as install something that would require me to put on a new upper control arm / ball joint assembly every 12-18 months. They come as an assembly and you can’t buy just the ball joint. In any event, here’s a problem I ran across.

I ordered lower ball joints from Summit. Figured since I was there, I might as well make sure the front is all set. This is the part specified for my truck and what they shipped.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/MEV-MK8695T_ID.jpg
I borrowed the press tool kit from Advanced Auto and when I pressed the new one in, I notice it bottomed out on the flange before the snap ring groove became visible. Basically it sits flush on the lower control arm. I looked at the Moog one that was originally in there and it was obvious that flange was “thinner” hence the snap ring could be clipped on. I called my mechanic buddy and he said he wasn’t overly concerned and that some older Chevy truck models actually had this type of ringless install.

This is the Moog one and you can actually see the difference in the two pics.

I know there’s no weight on the suspension but even on the ground, the angle is pretty severe.

http://www.nyspeed.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34012&stc=1

http://www.nyspeed.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34013&stc=1

I know it’s hard to see in this pic but I thought my phone took a pic of the ball joint. It didn’t. In summary, does anyone think this poses a failure problem? I drove it home and I can’t wrap my head around the logistics of where the weight / pressure on the joint is so I don’t know if it’s pressing it in there or pulling it out.

This is a stock internet photo of the bottom of the lower control arm. The ball joint gets pressed in from the bottom and dangles down.

I can correct this situation by ordering another lower ball joint, but I certainly don’t want to go through the hassle if what I have now is acceptable. Automotive knowledge on my part is lacking here.

BTW, finished upgraded upper control arm.

http://www.nyspeed.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34014&stc=1

http://www.nyspeed.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34015&stc=1

I didn’t take a pic with weight on it but I can already see the difference in the angle at which the ball joint sits.

This is the company / product I ordered. For some reason, mine didn’t come with the grease fittings at the bushings. Not sure why. Will be investigating.

http://www.readylift.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/4/44-2000_400.jpg

http://www.readylift.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/t/stock_vs_uniball_chevy_dodge_ford_toyota_4.jpg

Anyone?

If the ball joint is in the lower control arm with the threaded stud is pointing down, and the steering knuckle gets bolted on so it’s on the bottom of the control arm, the weight of the vehicle should be pushing it together and won’t pull the ball joint out of the lower control arm. I don’t see a problem with running it without the snap ring but I would definitely put a cotter pin through the ball joint stud.

Thanks for the input. I definitely put the cotter pin in the castle nut. I checked in yesterday and it hasn’t moved. I took quote a bit of torgue just to get it to seat in the control arm so I’m guessing it’s not coming out, but I’ve guessed wrong before. Unless I hear otherwise, I’ll put the other side in the same way. I just don’t want to be driving down the road one day and have it fall out!

the forces from the strut and from the road are both pushing the ball joint “into the control arm”, not pulling. its not critical to have the clip in, but I know it would bug me. I installed some adjustable upper balljoints in my truck and when they “seat” in the spindle they sit higher than the old ones…I know its fine but it bugged me for a few days. guess that’s just my OCD.

that joint in your new control arms looks just like the jeebus joint that Michigan metal works uses for their control arms.

btw make sure you use the right type of grease for those bushings. I didn’t listen and tried using the regular old lucas stuff in my greasegun when I installed my adjustable panhard bar only to hear the squeak squeak spueak.

I picked up this stuff and keep it in a separate grease gun.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-Body/Suspension/Polyurethane-Bushing-Chassis-Grease/Polyurethane-Bushing-Chassis-Grease-14-oz-Tube.html