so Tein, ebiach, or B&G are good brands to go with id assume since there huge.are there different types of each? like ebiach has the prokits and sportlines i think. thats why i ask about the spring rate bc aparently that plays a huge role in the life of ur shocks…
Don’t get the sportlines, they will blow your shocks in less then a year.
yah way to stiff and to much of a drop but it was just for the example. thanks tho man.
LOL are you kidding? Sportlines are the softest you can get. You want STIFF. Keep it off the bump stops.
k so prokits or a set of B&G will set me good then… if i get these anyone want to lend a hand for install? beer can be incorporated :partyman:
Are you even old enough to buy? :lol:
Rent some spring compressors from Canadian Tire, find a place with air tools and you can be done in an hour.
HERE READ THIS> This was taken from another site :E :E
Here are the spring rates and (drop) of the most popular aftermarket lowering springs. Understand that you really don’t want to drop too much, and the rates should be higher than stock to compensate for less wheel travel:
180F/300R (1.2"F/1.0"R) Eibach Pro-Kit (gen2 #6362.140)
200F/333R (1.6"F/1.6"R) Eibach Sportline (gen2 #EIB4.6263)
168F/258R (1.3"F/1.1"R) Tanabe NF210
174F/258R (1.8"F/1.8"R) Tanabe DF210
207F/314R (1.3"F/1.1"R) Tanabe GF210
170F/270R (1.3"F/1.1"R) Tein S-Tech
154F/246R (0.9"F/0.6"R) Tein H-Tech
190F/240R (1.7"F/1.5"R) Progress (Intrax)
172F/274R (1.6"F/1.6"R) Vogtland
280F/230R (2.0"F/2.0"R) Megan Racing
150F/190R (2.0"F/2.0"R) Sprint
???F/???R (1.5"F/1.5"R) B&G
???F/???R (1.5"F/1.4"R) H&R
I would stay away from Sprint because the drop is too low and rates too soft. Also, you really should know the rates of the lowering spring you are putting on your car, not knowing the spring rate is like not knowing the width of a tire. You need to know the rates to setup the suspension properly! All of the other springs seem to have mostly positive reviews from what I’ve seen on this board. I can personally attest to the Eibach Prokits, I think they are a great balance between drop and rates.
Also, here are the numbers for the Ground Control coilover sleeves, don’t bother using these on stock dampers, the rates are too high. Use with Koni Sport for best results.
375F/300R (~1.0"-2.5"F/~0.5"-2.5"R) Ground Control (interchangable front and back)
Complete Coilover Systems
Nismo S-tune Kit
Spring Rates: 185F/300R (progressive, meaning this is just the MAX rate)
Swappable Springs: NO
Ride Height Adjust: NO (fixed at 1.0"F/0.6"R)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: NO
Upper Mounts Incl?: YES
Install Difficulty: LOW (pops right into car)
Street Price: $800
Tein Basic
Spring Rates: 336F/336R (linear)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 56 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (1.0"-2.4"F/0.5"-2.3"R)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: NO
Upper Mounts Incl?: NO
Install Difficulty: MEDIUM (reuse stock upper mounts)
Street Price: $800
Koni/Eibach Prokit
Spring Rates: 180F/300R (progressive)
Swappable Springs: YES (use any lowering spring)
Ride Height Adjust: NO (fixed at 1.2"F/1.0"R)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: YES (no notches, ~2 full turns from soft to stiff)
Upper Mounts Incl?: NO
Install Difficulty: HIGH (reuse stock upper mounts and front strut housing)
Street Price: $700
Koni/Ground Control
Spring Rates: 375F/300R (linear)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 25 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (~1.0"-2.5"F/~0.5"-2.5"R)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: YES (no notches, ~2 full turns from soft to stiff)
Upper Mounts Incl?: NO
Install Difficulty: HIGH (reuse stock upper mounts and front strut housing)
Street Price: $850
Tein SS
Spring Rates: 336F/280R (linear, some use 392R)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 56 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (1.0"-2.4"F/0.8"-2.3"R)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: YES (16 way, 32 with EDFC)
Upper Mounts Incl?: NO
Install Difficulty: MEDIUM (reuse stock upper mounts)
Street Price: $1100
KSport
Spring Rates: 392F/280R (linear)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 56 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (~1.0"-2.5"F/~0.5"-2.5"R) (can adjust overall damper length)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: YES (36 way)
Upper Mounts Incl?: YES
Install Difficulty: LOW
Street Price: $850
JIC FLT-A1
Spring Rates: 392F/280R (linear, several use 336R)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 56 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (~1.0"-2.5"F/~0.5"-2.5"R) (can adjust overall damper length)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Nitrogen Gas
Damper Adjustment: YES (5 way)
Upper Mounts Incl?: YES (pillowball w/front camber adjustment)
Install Difficulty: LOW
Street Price: $1150
JIC FLT-A2
Spring Rates: 392F/280R (linear, several use 336R)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 56 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (~1.0"-2.5"F/~0.5"-2.5"R) (can adjust overall damper length)
Damper Type: Mono Tube Nitrogen Gas
Damper Adjustment: YES (15 way)
Upper Mounts Incl?: YES (pillowball w/front camber adjustment)
Install Difficulty: LOW
Street Price: $1750
One quick note: Stay away from B&G coilovers. Just ask David, I believe his exact quote was “overall they were the worst things I have bought for my car and I wish I could get my money back”.
Additional thoughts on lowering your car
When it comes to lowering your car, you either do it the right way, meaning using quality parts and making sure you install them correctly, or you don’t do it at all. As a general rule, no aftermarket spring alone is really designed to work well with stock shock absorbers (or dampers) over an extended period of time. Dampers are a wearable part like brake pads and tires…eventually you have to switch them out after using them with stock springs anyway. The design of our suspension does not allow a lot of drop on stock dampers, and extreme lowering will cause premature wear. How soon your dampers go depends on things like what springs you use, but also your driving style or what the road surfaces are like in your area.
It is popular to only use springs because it’s cheap and looks so damn good. But you cannot escape the fact that our stock springs are tuned by Nissan engineers to work specifically with the stock shock absorbers, switch only one piece out, and the car just won’t work right after a while.
The main reason stock dampers should not be paired with extreme drop springs is wheel travel. Anytime you drop your b15 on stock dampers you will lose wheel travel and bottom out more often, so aftermarket springs with a minimal drop and higher rates than stock are two effective ways to combat this. An example is using 2" lowering springs with stock dampers. Because the stock dampers are too long for the shorter springs, the car at rest has the shock piston almost completely compressed…to the point where you can’t even push down on the car because there is no wheel travel.
This is why, if you can afford it, coilover systems like Nismo S-tune, Tein Basic/SS and JIC-FLTA2 are ideal suspension setups, because the dampers and springs are matched to each other by engineers to give you the best balance between performance, ride quality and durability. Additionally, adding aftermarket dampers like Koni Sport “Yellows” (which have stronger internal valving) to lowering springs or Ground Controls
um when i said i was in school i meant nait. YES im of legal age.
thats for all that info ryan. 
i have the tanabe GF and i love them, the only thing i wish is that the front drop was more cause it looks un even but i belive you get that with most of the spring kits. otherwise these springs are awsome and i reccomend them, i still have stock shocks and they havne’t blown yet and its been about 8-10 months.
and also when instaling do use air tools it will make for a much funner install, using the hand spring compressors…sucks emo balls and takes forever
lol thanks xrider, i remember seeing ur car and the drop looked good. do u have a pic anyways so i can see how much 1.3" drop looks like? i wont drop more then 1.5" so im thinking tanabe, B&G and H&R(once i find the spring rates) springs, bc coilovers are nice, but w/o the track its not worth the money im paying to pretty much just lower the car. if my shocks last 2 yrs ill be happy. if i find some used koni yellows i might pick them up for when my shocks go.
Ryan, all that info was soo helpful, thanks again man.
theres just the front
as you can see on this pic, the front is quite noticeable compared to a stock spec, but still leaves you wanting to cover up that little bit more, thats where 18’s come in like on nicks car. but the rear is perfect. so with the tanabe 1.8 drop front and rear i dunno how that would be because it would prob rub in the rear, i have never rubbed and i usually dont have clearance issues so its a perfect combo.
thats the only pic i have of the rear, cars a little bit dirty from big valley :partyman:
and there is stock ride hight to compare, def a huge diffrence.
yah thats all the pics i could find so taht’ll give u a good idea, and the tanabe gf are pretty stiff too, but nothing obnoxious, my dad refuses to drive/ride in my car though cause he says its too harsh but hes old
wow 1.3" drop doesnt seem like alot but thats sweet, thats pretty much how low i want to go… how long do u expect ur shocks to last? do they bottom out yet?.
I have the eibach pro-kit, looks awsome and the front end isn’t higher than the back like on xriders’ car.
Mine have been in for about 3 years now, shocks are still great. The drop is perfect and the ride isn’t too bumpy.
yah im trying to find some B&G, eibach prokit, or Tanabe GF210,
prices so far…
Tanabe GF210 = $189American + customs fees. <<prob going to get these…
Eibach Pro-kit = $209American +ship +customs fees.
B&G = ???
$225 us. Greg Vogule is the shit give this guy a call, he will probably give you a 10% discount cause you live in Canada, Greg use to run “Mossy Performance”, but Mossy Nissan decided to axe their performance section so Greg Started G Spec, but yeah here you go:
https://ssl.perfora.net/www.gspec.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154588bad77738b/shopdata/index.shopscript
shit sweet, thanks alot bud. i owe u 1.
word. I ordered my Stromung exhaust from him and it was flawless, great guy to buy from.
Here is my car with the Nismo’s just for comparision. Car is like on rails with the RSB set to full stiff, and a great drifter on snow. 
thanks alot guys, i just emailed him. ill see what happens.
i found some used tein s-tech 130$ w/10,000km on them, would these be to soft w/ the stock shocks and what not? opions on the buy?
170F/270R (1.3"F/1.1"R) Tein S-Tech