It’s been cold and snowy so I haven’t replaced them yet, but I’d like to get the check engine light to go away, guess I need to replace the knock sensors too, once this is done maybe I’ll sell the engine and tranny combo in the future to swap to LS.
I meant it in a good way, as the pedal seemed a bit stiffer than my original BMW clutch.
I won’t know if it’s engaging properly until the car runs but for now it feels great.
Im still working on figuring out what i need to change to do the cluster. Hoping to have some answers for you by the weekend.
glad to see all the progress…we scrapped the e36 ls1 …it ran for a season…logged a ton of street miles but in the end the rear tore out of the unibody too many times adn there was nothing left to weld to. If you can reinforce that area now. i have seen triangulated subframes on ls driftcars at ls fest. btw make plans to hit lsfest if possible…i will be there with my 68 nova and the lsx lexus sc300…
I’ve never seen subframe tear out on an E39, but I’ll keep my eyes open. Would like to make LSFest as it’s my birthday weekend this year, but my fiancée already told me to reserve that weekend for a surprise vacation she’s taking me on.
Thanks, just keep me posted. Along with recoding the cluster, a few new wires are required to be added to be able to read the new analog signal provided by the PCM. I am hitting the junkyard this Saturday morning to pull some connectors out of some BMWs there so I have the required tiny pins.
Regarding the sports springs, what do you want for them? I’m trying to find some used stuff because the car has so many miles I don’t want to tie up too much money into it, I’m probably gonna make a thread on here in case someone has some stuff I need. I’d like to get at least sports suspension but I’m working on a cheap chooch budget since I’m still new in the Hvac field, not making the big bucks yet. Also trying to buy my dads appartment, so might need to fix some things in there.
I’m looking for shocks/struts/springs to replace my worn ones.
My chooch thing went off.
PS. Hurry up and finish this car fggt. It’s supposed to be nice this weekend, let me know if you need a hand.
I spent a few hours fucking around with the wiring last night. I found the starter signal wire and ghetto connected it to a jumper wire going to the starter. Made sure oil was in it, clutch pedal down, andddddddddd click click click click, dead battery! (which is good news, at least my connections are right).
I “jumped” the car off the Audi and the engine turned over a few times without complaint. Still no fuel, coil wiring, etc, but at least it is showing signs of life.
Yeah it’s supposed to be super nice the next few days, not that it really matters, I’ve been working on the car every single day since last Saturday after work.
I am taking the week of April 15th-19th off to work on this pig and hopefully finish it, but will continue to chip away at it in the meantime.
I’m still waiting on:
Corvette FPR/FF
Oil filler neck
Input/output seals and crush sleeve for the M5 Diff, then I can drop that off at the shop to be finished
Still need to buy high pressure rated fuel line, some fittings for the fuel system, power steering AN fittings and hoses, have the driveshaft made, a few fittings for the oil pressure sensor which triggers the dummy light, a few things from the junkyard…little stupid bullshit. But, the end is hopefully in sight, although it doesn’t feel like it.
Hey guido, I threw the M-Parallels in the wagon…still on for test fitting them today after 5?
Yessir, I’ll shoot you a text today at some point.
I can probably be of some assistance in the finishing of this if anything is giving you a hard time. I live in the area. :tup:
:tup: North Buffalo hood rats
I probably will have you take a look at the wiring. I’m in the process of prepping the GM harness to be able to connect it to the new setup. Some of it is over my head.
Harness is originally from a 2003 Express Van
How do I wire the following?
GREEN PCM Connector
49 YEL/BLK 1827 Vehicle Speed Signal OUT 129k/mile
50 DK GRN/WHT 817 Vehicle Speed Signal OUT 4k/mile
The VSS sensors on the T56 has 2 wires, which one goes where?
BLUE PCM Connector
57 ORN 440 Battery Positive Voltage
58 DK GRN 1049 Class 2 Serial Data
Is Pin 58 the one that goes to the OBD2 port (the GM one)?
What’s 57?
LUKE where you at?!!?
I was just going to say…Thats Lukes department.
2003 express van wiring harness will work with a ls1?
I’m not putting an LS1 into my car.
It’s an LQ4 out of a…wait for it…2003 Express Van!
I hate you
C1 - Pin 58 DK GRN 1049 Class 2 Serial Data goes to the DLC (OBD2) pin # 2
Typically on a GM vehicle it goes to a splice pack under the dash/kick panel and the wires goes to everything in the vehicle (PCM, BCM, radio, HVAC, etc.)
C1 - Pin 57 ORN 440 Battery Positive Voltage - is exactly what is says Battery 12v+ voltage.
My wiring diagram says the wire color is red/wht, but orange is also pretty typical on GM constant B+ voltage. There should be a direct feed from the vehicle battery with a 20A fuse going to C1 pin 20 & pin 57
As far as your vehicle speed signal:
GREEN PCM Connector
49 YEL/BLK 1827 Vehicle Speed Signal OUT 129k/mile
50 DK GRN/WHT 817 Vehicle Speed Signal OUT 4k/mile
Circuit 817 is a PCM to CCM (Cruise Control Module) for GM trucks. This is an OUTPUT to the cruise module from the PCM for speed control.
Both of these signals are output with different PPM (Pulse per mile). The PCM will generate 4000 pulse per mile, or 129,000 pulse per mile
C2 Pin 21 400 YEL VSS High
C2 Pin 20 401 PPL VSS Low
These are you VSS for the tailshaft on the 4L60/4L80
---------- Post added at 12:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 AM ----------
Just a little advice to save you a good amount of headaches in the future. If I was building this vehicle I would dump the GM Truck/Van PCM (#6106) and get yourself an LS Fbody PCM (#0411). You can pick up a good used one very cheap ($100). Then just repin the harness you have to match the 2002 LS Fbody configuration. Since you are running a T56 and the GM Truck never came with a manual transmission. There will also be lots of pins/wires you can remove from the harness to trim it down.
Well, may have hit a snag. I wrapped up the power steering system last night and filled it with fluid. No leaks are apparent, but then again I won’t know for sure until the motor runs and the system hits full pressure. The low pressure side turned out great, and I was able to reuse the stock power steering cooler on the evaporator bracket. I removed the evaporator itself since I’m not running AC.
I used Russell PowerFlex Power Steering Hose 632610, -6AN size on the high pressure side, which is fine.
My banjo fitting on the box is fine and so is the o-ring to –6AN fitting on the LS pump. However, I did use regular Summit-brand hose ends on the high pressure line. From what I’m reading they’re not suitable for power steering use. Is this correct? Here’s what I used:
If those are wrong, I’m off to buy more hose ends…luckily all I need is a 90 and a straight hose end. Maybe the local speed shop has a few in stock. I assume this is what I need.
This evening I’m hoping to have the heater lines all done. Corvette radiator gets here tomorrow, I’ll mount that up along with the dual fans I pulled off a Monte Carlo in a yard.
Also arriving tomorrow is the Corvette FPR/Filter, silicone intake elbow to the TB, and some replacement sway bar end links. Stock ones were shot and causing some clunks over bumps.
yeah you want the bottom picture ones for power steering. high pressure side anyway
Thanks. I’ll see if K&S has some on lunch. I don’t feel like waiting another 3 days for Summit to deliver.