Best place for the stainless an fittings is ferry hydraulic on walden ave.
^ lol, I hope you still try to be “nice” in this thread when you find out he is going to New Era for the tune.
I could care less humper, because I am still busier than ever. Keep sucking dick
Typical weak JnJ faggot response, good luck, I hope you burn in hell.
Norb, you contact Luke yet?
Thanks whiskey tango
They could have made up the lines for me, but because I didn’t know the length or configuration I needed, I took care of it myself (that, and it’s cheaper). They’re good, but expensive. K&S had the right Russell PS high pressure fittings. I finished up the power steering lines last night. Accidentally broke the soft Summit banjo bolt, but luckily still had the OEM BMW bolt laying around and used that.
I still have to tackle the wiring on my own and draw up a list of questions/issues I have before I go wasting anyone’s time. Most of the stuff will be plug and play, but I know I will have issues on smaller things like integrating the manual T56 sensors with the right pins on the auto PCM. I did want Luke to take a look at the electric motor on my cutout valve, though…thanks for reminding me.
After speaking with New Era, I’m going with a mail order tune for now from TunedbyFrost online. It was a pretty pricey proposition to drag the car out there on someone else’s truck and trailer, have them code out the VATS and etc bullshit, and then dyno tune the car from scratch. More importantly, because the car won’t start with VATS still in the PCM, and New Era could only remove VATS at their shop through the car’s OBD2 port, the car theoretically would be started for the very first time at someone else’s shop, and we all know the little BS things that pop up when you fire up a car with so many new and untested systems (cooling and PS leaks, wiring things that I may have fucked up, etc). It’s just not smart to have my car sitting on someone else’s dyno while I try to figure out why I have an oil leak or coolant dripping somewhere. With the mail order I can fire it up on my own time and deal with all the fuckups I find. Once the car is sorted and roadworthy I can eventually just drive it to Rochester since I visit friends there once every few months anyway.
Ferry will sell you parts, and if you know how much they are from Summit they will match the price because they know their walk in prices are a bit high.
Your best bet it to still get an F body PCM and repin your wiring harness
Norb, to bypass the VATS temporarily this may work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-PASSkey-II-Bypass-Module-For-LS1-and-LT1-/281064956739?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4170c6e343&vxp=mtr
I used this in the LT1 swap in the '55 Chevy, drove the car for a while, then had the VATS disabled via a laptop tuner. It’s cheap and easy to wire up.
Speaking of the '55 how was the trip and how is the car?
Hey J, the drive went great! Trans is still acting dumb, rather than dick with that I think the plan is to just go with a fresher LS/LQ whatever based drivetrain altogether.
Well then consider something like this
http://www.precisionenginetech.com/project-engine-builds/2011/07/21/retro-ls-build-part-1/
Can you explain your reasoning some more? I REALLY don’t feel like repining the harness, especially if it’s a known good working combination that had nothing wrong with it. I have no desire to make this a standalone or anything like that, I just want it to run happily and think it’s still in a van.
The only things I can think of that are F-body specific are:
-VSS for manual (I will speak to the tuner about that)
-reverse lockout (I’m wiring it to disengage when my brake lights turn on)
-CAGS (long gone, solenoid removed)
-2 pins for electric fan control, as the stock van cooling fan is a mechanical clutch fan driven directly off the waterpump. If the tuner adds the control capability I can easily add 2 pins to the harness to control those.
Thanks Mike. Since I need the PCM tuned anyways for my airflow and fueling I’m just going to have him do it while he’s in there—it’s already included in the package.
By the way, I’m pretty much done with your engine crane, but I’m going to hold off on returning it until this turd is up and running for sure with no problems!
But it’s got a carb!
No worries, Norb. I’m in no hurry anyway so feel free to hang onto it for as long as you need.
Just the little things in the tune and the tables for the transmission. That PCM is expecting 2 VSS signals. One for the turbine speed and output speed. It would just simplify the wiring. Repinning is very easy with both wiring diagrams
Easily be built with a 4 barrel EFI unit instead. I was mainly talking about the “look” of the engine
I posted this over on bimmerforums already as there are a few guys who have already integrated LS cooling systems with the wacky BMW heater core mixing valve, but I figured I’d ask here as well since there are a few of you with LS cooling experience.
Just saw your txt, not sure if it was to late to answer or not. Im making progress. Should have it figured out by the weekend. Sorry for the delay
my phone is always on. don’t hesitate to text back.
I have the cluster all back in and assembled with the new required wiring, so i’m all ready to go on my end.
Awesome! Cant wait to come see it
I would tie the bottom of the VW coolant tank into the lower radiator hose. If that is not possible you can use the coolant hose coming off the water pump. That is how the chevy trucks are connected. As far as the steam line on the engine and the radiator you can T them and run it to the vent on the coolant bottle. Is that a pressurized cap?