yeah, VW caps are like 16psi usually
frost is a great tuner…brian herder at pcms for less did the one for the ls1 sc300 my buddy has…cheap
getting closer. I took a week off from work to make progress on the car and blow off some steam overall.
Corvette FPR and filter installed
Cooling system done. No leaks, but it’ll really be put to the test once we I fire it up. Here is the final routing I went with.
I also replaced the front sway bar end links as they had been clunking since I bought the car.
Received the last reducing coupler I needed for the intake, so that’s all set. I’ll be using a section of 3" SS exhaust pipe I have laying around to extend the filter as close as I can to the factory cold air intake ducting in the bumper/fender. Probably going to paint it wrinkle black.
The biggest task of the week was working on wiring. I had to add a few pins/wires to the BMW cluster to be able to accept analog GM tach and coolant temp signals, since the cluster originally got those signals from the DME (now gone) in CAN-BUS. The pins are unlike any other small cluster pins I have seen, but a trip to the yard found me a fistful of these crown shaped connectors out of a white E36. Oddly enough, all the other BMWs there had the common L-shaped pin, both older and newer. I must have spent 2 hours looking for them, but finally got them. I also need a BMW coolant sensor pigtail, but I couldn’t find one of those at the yard either, unfortunately.
I went through the GM harness again and removed a handful of circuits I missed the first time around. It’s unbelievable how many useless wires and connectors are included in every harness, but I suppose it’s easier/cheaper to build them that way as an OEM rather than customizing each harness to each vehicle. Even after thinning it out, the whole mess was still just a huge ball of wires, so there was no chance of laying it on the motor in a clean manner. I spent a day or two on the living room floor disassembling the harness wire by wire, labeling, and separating all the wires. It still needs a bit of cleanup, but it’s 90% there. Now it’s just a matter of sitting the fuse panel and PCM connectors in their places in the engine bay, and routing/shortening the wires exactly as I like. Time consuming, but much neater and more efficient than trying to untangle on the spot.
Once the GM harness is in and hooked up to all the usual crap, I can make the BMW/GM connections, and once the PCM comes in, I can hopefully fire it up for the first time.
Still need to finish the rear diff and have a driveshaft made before it’s driveable.
Nice work!!! One day ill be doing this 
Mail order tune is done and PCM is on a truck back to me…based on my cam and springs, Jim at Speed Inc in IL set my rev limit at 6650. Hopefully that, along with the 3.62s and 18lb flywheel, should be fun
What size rear tire can you stick under there? Smoke show lol
Like 285s or something like that. Not really looking to hook up at all with a big tire as I don’t wanna break anything. I bought a spare set of 16" wheels a few weeks back as my “burnout” set.
I’m in the middle of wiring right now…can anyone familiar with GM fuse blocks/junction boxes point me in the right direction here?
I’ve been following this site for all my info:
http://www.lt1swap.com/underhoodfuseblock.htm
According to him you need to use the following fuse block:
I have that same fuse block that came with the drivetrain from the van (on the left below), but also have another fuse panel (on the right).
Problem is, the plastic case that holds all the pink power wires that go to all the sensors/PCM/etc doesn’t physically fit into the correct fuse block as required by that site. What am I missing? You would think that the case that powers all the sensors would fit into C2 on that fuse block.
I thought you are using a stock cam?
a stock cam out of an LS2 Corvette, which has different characteristics than stock truck cam
Oh thats right, cool, glad its coming together. I just bought an eibach rear sway bar to neutralize understeer, its 18mm which is thicker than the M5 rear sway bar. Also have front strut mounts coming in and the blower resister that went at the end of winter 
. When i get the strut mounts ill be putting the sport suspension on the front, still looking for rear sports shocks/springs, maybe ill get the rear shocks new instead of everything used ive been looking for, i hear its a pain in the ass to install the rears.
On top of that i need to do the knock sensors and install the o2 sensors, i hear the knock sensor wire insulation gets brittle and falls apart and causes wires to short(near the connector, not under the intake), if im lucky i might be able to use electrical tape to fix it.
anyone have input on the fuse panel? i’m so close to starting this thing.
updated that post with more detail.
PCM depinned (again) and repinned to fix my own mistakes, all wires routed and taped…tonight I will finally run power and grounds to all sensors and PCM and see what happens.
Yeah buddy! :tup:
Few quick questions regarding feeding the GM PCM power and grounds. I have a fairly good idea about them but maybe someone can just confirm if I’m right.
Grounds:
The following just need a simple ground from the body, right?
BLUE 1
BLUE 40
BLUE 27
BLUE 67
BLUE 24
BLUE 64
Green 40
Green 1
12V Power:
These need KEY ON 12V+, correct?
OFF RUN CRANK VOLTAGE 12V BLUE 75
IGNITION VOLTAGE BLUE 19
These need constant 12V+ even when key is off, correct?
BATTERY POSITIVE VOLTAGE BLUE 57
BATTERY POSITIVE VOLTAGE BLUE 20
Life has been keeping me busy…someone hit my Subaru while it was parked and then ran, but i got the plate, so i’ve been on the phone with insurance and police trying to get it all squared away. also finally set up 3 interviews for next week, so it’s been hectic to say the least.
i had a local ship set up my M5 diff and as far as i can tell it turned out well. I still have to slap the cover on and install it into the car. then, measure for driveshaft…
oh, and this happened today
i swapped the truck throttle body back onto it and started it, idle still surged. unplugging the IAC made no difference. unplugging the MAF made it idle nice. I don’t know whether I have a bad MAF, or it’s just a rough tune. Leaning towards MAF.
You have a vacuum leak
Nice!!! Im glad its running for you! Soon you’ll have all the bugs ironed out.
:word: