Nice to see it running. Great work :tup:
it idled pretty damn well with the MAF unplugged. I think the throttle body gasket is to blame, have one on the way. Next on the list is to hook up the wiring going to the cabin. CEL, serial data, coolant temp for the gauge, oil dummy light, alternator light…
Congrats on it firing
thanks. anyone have a spare 5-pin maf laying around? I will be pulling codes as soon as I get the OBD2 port hooked up, but I have a feeling the MAF is bad.
I have one
Idled the car last night looking for cooling and PS leaks. After a few revs, one of the factory BMW cats is glowing red hot. Rich or lean? I’m going to remove those and weld in straight pipes, but I want to solve the condition that’s causing them. It’s possibly a clogged cat, but the car ran pretty well before parking it. Going to pull codes hopefully tomorrow evening and see what the PCM is thinking.
http://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/3804818434.html
saw this maybe you coudl use some parts off it?
You’re probably running very rich or the cat is clogged.
Are all cylinders firing? One isn’t missing and dumping a bunch of unburnt fuel?
Gauges work??
Ironically I actually am all set on parts…I do need a coolant temp pigtail for the temp gauge but I doubt that person is just going to snip it off his harness. Also need a DBC gas pedal (since the one I bought snapped) but I will see if I can grab one out of an E32 or E30 at M&M.
I am getting a slight misfire every few seconds. I won’t know where until I wire up the OBD2 plug sitting in my toolbox and check it. My buddy dropped one of those OBD to Bluetooth adapters, so I’ll scan it with my phone this weekend.
Haven’t wired up the coolant temp gauge yet.
Tach physically moves with the revs but not on the right scale. The tach reads way too low, I may need to solder in a resistor or something along those lines. Haven’t really looked into it.
I finally put the M5 diff with 3.62s back in the car last night. It was one of those nights where every time you crawl under the car, there’s some sort of distraction, the phone rings, etc. Eventually got it in, tightened up, bolted up the back half of the driveshaft, and measured to see how much the front needs to be modified. I’ll be dropping off the shaft today at Fleet Pride.
anyone have an OBD2 Scan tool i can borrow? definitely getting a misfire somewhere on Bank 2.
you can also hit each primary with a laser thermometer to find which cylinder is off
Tell your buddy to get back at me, come over with him, Vagina-cum his whip and you’re welcome to my hand held code reader that will show data-streams too. You know how demanding I am, my hand could use a cold blue monster this weekend. Come at me bro
ah yeah forgot about that. i think i’ll snag one of those HF cheapies tomorrow…i still think i’d like the scan tool just to see what else is throwing a red flag though.
who, that guido fuck?
you free saturday morning/afternoon? i am going to M&M to grab some shit, could stop on the way.
I’ll be around Saturday more or less. Get your VW buddy with the A/C issues to come with, birds, stones, and whatnot.
My guido thing went off.
anyone have any spare LS coil packs laying around? individually unplugging coils 1,3,5,7 yielded immediately shittier idle and a misfire. i unplugged 2 and 4 and no change. when i unplugged the ignition connector for all of bank 2, that side dropped out. I’m thinking I may have a few bad coil packs. Picking up a scanner tomorrow to check.
well, i think i may have found a new issue/solution…
borrowed a scan tool and ghetto rigged an OBD2 plug. i swapped all the coils on the passenger side and kept the MAF plugged in, and it didn’t throw codes for those, so i’m assuming they’re good. however, i did get 2 codes:
P0343: Camshaft position sensor high input
P0650: MIL Circuit
Not worried about the 650 code since I don’t have the CEL control wire hooked up to anything yet.
The 0343 code is interesting. This was a known good motor pulled out of a wrecked van, so rather than just throw a new sensor at it, I thought about what I had done to the motor to change it from “stock”. Back when rebuilding it, I installed a used cam out of a 2005 LS2 Vette. Apparently the LS2 uses a cam that provides a position signal on the FRONT of the cam, to a sensor mounted on the front cover. My LQ4 is the same as all LS1s as the cam provides the signal to the sensor in the rear. Therefore, my cam is incompatible with my motor…this could also explain why my tach is not reading correctly. Another symptom is the car not firing on the first try (extended crank period). It will only start if you open the throttle about a quarter.
Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of the 05 Vette cam that I installed, so I can’t compare it to the LQ4 cam I have in the living room.
Anyone have a stock LS1 or LS6 cam laying around?
I have a stock ls1 cam but you should honestly get something a lil nicer. Just get a nice cam and spring package!!! I have the valve spring and crank bolt instal tool as well
Parts you need if you don’t want to replace the camshaft in the engine:
GM# 12633906 ($119.50 GM LIST) - includes brand new front engine cover, gaskets, bolts and Cam Position Sensor and cover harness
GM# 12576407 1x upper camshaft gear ($40 new real world price)
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1230 ($26) or extend the three wires on your camshaft position sensor plug to reach the front.
I wouldn’t swap the camshaft for this. You can also find these parts cheaper used.