i thought about that, but spending over $200 and having to hack up my harness again just doesn’t make sense as opposed to just slapping in a local, pretty much free cam and being back up and running in a day or two instead of waiting a week for parts.
Amen brother, get her runnin good with known good working parts then start swapping things out for better gains. this way its easier to trouble shoot the issues if/when they arise.
grabbed a Z06 cam locally this evening and started to wrap things up.
Nice!!!
Been caught up with little crap lately, no time to work on my own damn car. Between interviews, a job offer (happy about that), and doing brake/suspension work on my mom’s and sister’s car, no free time…
Luckily I did have the opportunity to drop off some stuff at various places and get it worked on.
Diff is all set up, sealed, filled with fluid, and installed
I also sealed up the shifter assembly, and this is the final height. If I decide it’s too high for my comfort the rod comes off with 2 bolts, chop to desired length, recut threads for knob, done. I could also just cut a section out and reweld the halves, but it’s easier to cut threads since my welder sucks.
Tackled my misfire/rough idle issue last week, grabbed a coil pack set and a few other misc items off this Tahoe.
Removed the LS2 cam in about 3 hours, here it is, missing the timing reluctor that is causing my issues. No mishaps other than dropping 2 cam gear bolts into the pan…luckily, the pan is able to be dropped a few inches before it hits the subframe, so fishing them out wasn’t tough. I took this as a sign that I had to change the oil anyhow…
Fleet Pride took care of the driveshaft. Front BMW 3-bolt guibo style end cut off, shortened to correct length, and 1330 U-joint/slip joke welded on. Runout was indicated as .005" or less.
Throw that sucker in, fits like a glove. It’s really interesting how much BMW offsets the nose of the diff off to the driver’s side (probably to keep an even load on the u-joints and reduce wear, and so that it centers up under load).
My garage is so filthy that it’s almost not able to be worked in…time for a cleanup.
Nice work! Cant wait to see some vids or see it in person if I ever have time.
can’t seem to get this POS running right.
finished up swapping in the Z06 cam (which has the reluctor) and still have the same issues are before. occasional hiccup/stumble at idle, high idle with MAF plugged in, passenger cat faintly glowing red when the car has been idling and revving for a while. as soon as I unplug the MAF, the idle settles pretty well, but still stays at about 1100rpm. If i rev the motor with MAF unplugged, it comes back down to a normal idle. Unplugging the IAC has no effect on anything.
I’m wondering if i have a vacuum leak, or if one of my cats is plugged. at this point i’m not sure how to diagnose it since it’s not throwing any codes on my scanner. i have tried spraying carb cleaner around the usual areas to check for vacuum leak but have not found anything. if somebody wants to come over and poke around this thing i’d be happy to compensate you for your time.
Is there a relearn for the cam sensor?
from what i am reading there is only a crank relearn. i could be wrong. i have not thrown a code for either CMP or CKP since starting the car for the first time.
What year PCM is it? And out of what?
Do you have the ability to data log sensors?
have you checked the plugs and made sure each is firing? might want to change them anyhow as some could have fouled during the original prob. sounds like a vac leak kinda too but then it idles down.
I will be over sat to help. Hopefully we can get it going
Have you checked stupid things like coolant sensor?
if only one cat is glowing red its either a clogged cat or an over fueling problem on that bank which would probably eliminate MAF or most sensors that share banks. id check out your o2 sensors on that bank to make sure there reading correctly and anything else that possibly may control that bank. a missfire would heat up cat with fuel but you would get atleast a flashing cel indicating missfire.
The motor and PCM are out of a 2003 Express Van. The oxygen sensors are out of a 2002 Camaro SS.
I only have a basic MAC scan tool that I borrowed from Spam16V.
I will pull the plugs today and see what I find. The funny thing about is that once you unplug the MAF, things get better, so that may indicate the MAF is going nuts due to a leak somewhere.
The GM coolant sensor is plugged in and working, I read about 195-202F just sitting there at idle on the scan tool I borrowed.
I don’t have the CEL hooked up to the car at this point just yet. However, it would have thrown a P0300 (for misfire somewhere), and I have not gotten any misfire codes at all.
I’m using oxygen sensors out of a 2001-2002 Camaro, does that make a difference? The connectors matched up 99%, there was a small plastic divider in the harness pigtail that was preventing me from plugging them in, so I chiseled that out. They fit after that. Looking back now, I’m thinking that may be part of my issue, IF for some reason the parameters for Express VS Camaro are different.
It will misfire with out throwing codes btw
At least with my F-bodys it took a huge amount of misfires to trip a code.
no shit. that certainly supports the oxygen sensor theory.
also, what is the scale of measurement for the TPS? at idle the scan tool reads 88% or so, and with the throttle body fully open, dips down to like 40 or 50 something %. This makes no sense based on percentage, but I read somewhere that it actually measures in degrees, which makes sense (nearly 90* straight up and down when closed).
Another stupid thing to check if you’re new to LS1 stuff is the plug wires clipping on all the way
Pulling plugs is another easy way to figure out if a cylinder isn’t firing.
Maybe I can stop over when Drew does and yell encouraging things…
I must have quadruple checked the plug wires, they are all seated and firing, but I can yank them one by one to see if maybe a coil is bad or wired wrong.
I think Drew is coming over sometime Saturday afternoon if you want to stop by. Lunch/beers on me.
Check for voltage to the cam position sensor and check for 5v at the tps.
If you can’t figure it out I have HPT, that could at least tell what the fuel trims/o2s and maf/map are seeing