I just bought an 89 Conquest 124,000 mi and it won’t run. Does anyone have any machine shops they would recommend. I was planning on rebuilding it eventually, but may just go for it now. I would be willing to go anywhere, but would prefer the north hills.
there smo in houston pa theer real good or rhoads in mt plesent ask brain he gets engines done there
local place by me that does that. Dinterman’s it’s called. He is a window cleaning service during the day/summer months, then does machine work all winter/some nights
Put a LS1 in it and have ALOT of fun.
I put a 355 small block with a 125 shot NOS in a Starion about 2 years ago, I never should have sold that car, it was a blast.
Broughers in West Mifflin
hey general, give me a hand with the swap and I may go for it. With some horsepower I think this will be a really fun car. Was the swap hard?
i got the motors!!
Check out my How To Posting at: (There’s pictures of my car there too)
http://www.tristarion.com/forums/index.php?showtutorial=7
I have to take a look at an LS1 oil pan to check drag link clearances.
Step 1. Preliminary information
This project requires some welding and fabrication. Nothing too
drastic, you can even check the yellow pages for mobile welders for a price
quote on the cross member installation. I did it myself, but a few phone
calls yielded an average price of $75.00. You’ll also have to alter your
firewall, but the motor will be low and very far back, helping to preserve
the awesome handling and center of gravity these cars have.
Step 2. Parts List - Engine Crossmember
Art Morrison (1-800-929-7188) (www.artmorrison.com)
part number 19190200 for $65.00. I cut the tubing down to fit between the frame rails directly in front of the stock cross member. I plated both ends of the cross member with 1/4" steel. The cross member should be installed flush with the top of the frame rail and tight against the factory cross member. This is necessary to facilitate the oil pan.
Step 3. Parts List - Transmission Crossmember
I used a factory GM cross member found on 67-69
camaro’s, nova’s…I used this part because I already had it. Art Morrison
lists 3 part number for this installation. 36365700(A) or ( and 36365560.
They range in price from $70 to $75. The latter part number accommodates
dual exhaust with humps on either side of the trans mount.
NOTE*** I have since switched back to the stock Mitsu cross member with a 6"x9" 1/4" thick piece of steel used as an adapter plate. It put the trans higher in the tunnel and preserved the driveshaft angle.
Step 4. Parts List - Oil Pan
Two part numbers from Moroso (1-203-453-6571) (www.moroso.com)
are available. Part number 20211 is for a pre 1980 block with a 2 piece rear
main seal and part number 20212 for a 1986 and newer block with a 1 piece
rear main seal. Both are available from Summit for around $179. Keep in mind
these are 6 quart capacity pans, that means 7 quarts of oil (including
filter) for your motor. I think the oil pump pick-up are about $24. The
installation is challenging. The oil pan must be positioned in the chassis
and the engine lowered down into place with out the trans, converter or
flywheel. I’ve tried several different ways and found this to be the best
for this application.
Step 5. Parts List - Headers
Sanderson headers part number CC158. (www.sandersonheaders.com)
They are a little expensive at $225.00 but the quality is incredible. They
come with mounting hardware, and angled collectors. They are 1 5/8" tubes
to a 3" collector. The best feature is they don’t require any gasket. The
mounting flange is very thick and has a machined sealing surface that only
requires RTV for sealing. Definitely Top Shelf. They even come with angled
collectors to tuck the exhaust in tight.
Step 6. Parts List - Driveshaft
I went to the local junkyard and picked up a couple driveshafts from GM automatics that were slightly larger in diameter than the factory mitsu, cut the endcap and yoke off of the mitsu, cut a 10" section of driveshaft (not including yoke) from the GM driveshafts. One of the thickwall driveshafts was a tight fit. Slipped the mitsu inside the GM, being careful to keep the u-joints in proper alignment, welded it up then took it to the machine shop to be balanced.
Step 7. Parts List - Other Suggested Items
Summit 1-wire 100 amp alternator
(www.summitracing.com) for about $110, short water pump and pulleys,
relocated the power steering pump to the driver’s side, using the factory
mitsu radiator and cooling fans - I put the fans on a thermostatic switch
to turn on @ 160 deg., Lokar flexible trans dipstick, engine oil dipstick, and
throttle cable.
Step 8. Getting Started
Put the car on jackstands.
Step 9. Transmission and Torque Converter assembly
Put the trans and converter in the tunnel, don’t bolt the mount or put the
driveshaft in.
Step 10. Oil Pan
Place the oil pan in the car, in the final installed position. With
steering wheel turned hard right or left to move the draglink closer to the
factory cross member.
Step 11. Headers
Put the headers in place, I tied mine with rope.
Step 12. Engine
Lower the engine into place, without the distributor installed.
Step 13. Header Bolts
Install header bolts.
Step 14. Motor Mounts
Install motor mount bolts.
Step 15. Oil Pan
Bolt the oil pan on.
Step 16. Transmission Bolts
Bolt up the tranny and converter to the engine.
Step 17. Install Distributor
Install distributor, you may have to jack up the tailshaft of the trans a little.
Step 18. Transmission Mount
Bolt up transmission mount.
Step 19. Conclusion
All set! The rest is up to you as the rest is all minor things.
Thanks for the in depth response. It sounds a little complicated, but would be awesome when completed. I’ll have to really start considering this.