Was fartin around on the net today. Came upon these. Wondering if anyone has experience with them? Once I get my coil overs. I think these would yield very good results. Also looking into urethane front control arm bushings.
Copy/pasted this off the site.
Product Description
Megan Racing Roll Center Adjuster Nissan 240SX S13 89-94. This Roll Center Adjuster replaces the stock lower control arm bushing. By increasing the height of the bushing, the control arm can now sit lower and straight with the horizontal plane allowing greater shock travel and increased stability. For a stock height normal car, the control arms are preset by the manufacturer to give optimum results. On a lowered car, these control arms are bent differently and will completely change the geometry of the vehicle. With the Roll Center Adjuster, enthusiasts can now correct the height and geometry of the lower control arms to yield optimum results again, resulting in INCREASED TRACTION AND BETTER STABILITY.
Part #: MeganRacing_MR-6464 This product will work for the vehicles listed below. If the model, trim, or years are not listed, then the product will work for any vehicles within the make, model, or trim (respectively). Some products may require modifications to your vehicle.
Vehicle Applications
1989 - 1998 Nissan 180SX all trims
1989 - 1993 Nissan 200SX (Non-US) all trims
1989 - 1994 Nissan 240SX all trims
1989 - 1993 Nissan Silvia all trims
these don’t actually really do what they’re supposed to. a proper roll center adjuster has an extended piece above where the ball moves. there was a good discussion on ZT about it I remember reading.
All it does is move the ball joint up…looks like an inch maybe?
Pushes spindle up…control arm down. Makes sense to me???
you want to keep the ball joint in the same spot IIRC. otherwise your knuckle is still pivoting from the same location… your control arm is still lower down. It would help to reduce bump steer but not actually affect your roll center at all.
to determine roll center it’s not the line/angle of the lca, it’s the line formed by connecting outboard and inboard mounting points.
so for the lower end, it would be ball joint to inner bushing distance and since the stud length of the ball joint’s still the same for these Megan RCA’s, the ball joint itself is still in the same position…only the lower arm is pushed down more.
other than ordering new lower arms from like spl or something with a built in rca, you’re only option really is to slice the knuckle and add a spacer in between so that the lower ball joint gets pushed down lower. this is kind of sketchy though since you really can’t afford to have an uneven surface from the cut…especially for a DD.
These don’t do shit… I don’t know what’s the point of megan even selling them. Don’t waste your money.
As duckJAI said… moonface race version balljoints only… they actually move the roll center… These just appear longer to the uninformed… but what actually changes the roll center is a longer shank… which these are not…
If you are loaded on cash you might want to look into GP Sports knuckles for the front… better solution. If I recall they also have a few other changes to bumpsteer and kingpin inclination angle…
Another option are SPL’s LCAs or Ikeya formula’s LCAs… be ware of all others (garbage).
Google Zilvia, FA, NR for more details…