Mike's Sol

[KrazyKid]

@Boxersix

It’s often cheaper and better to just have FS or ATL make you a bladder, then just make you own cell can. Can use their filler necks or make you own. Tis what I did for the subaru.

Remember when making radiator ducting…initial opening at front of ducting should be smaller and have the duct work taper up to the core of the rad. Cuases high pressure at the front opening and low pressure on the backside, airflow slows down over the core and absorbs more heat. People just assume that a shit ton of airflow across the core is always the best move and it’s not always the case. If the heat can’t transfer to the air it’s not going to do much. IIRC, quick reference to the formulas are in C.bells Max Boost book.

so true. If you have any idea how long it took me to pound that into the heads of fucking computer nerds on the overclocking.net fourm!!! Talking liquid cooling PC stuff, same thing really as a motor… they all though “woot massive loud high speed fans, high mega crazy flow pumps in the system” were the best. Not the case, if the heat sink flys so fast past the heat, how the hell will it work?!?

I think I made the example about the air chamber you stand in for 30 seconds and the fans blow dollar bills all over the place and you have to catch them. You are the radiator and the dollars are heat. With their thinking they would come out of the game with empty pockets. If the air slows down its easier to catch the money!

Its just that once you slow it down too much where their isn’t enough air flow to wick the excessive heat from the system, when more is better. But when 10+ cfm would get the job done, slapping another 800cfm 12" fan would be a waster of energy, and technically speaking power from the car.