Ok, here are some sketches. The first reinforces the sub frame while still allowing some airflow and possibly a pass through for the exhaust (this will require playing with it a bit more). It will also separate the trunk space from the engine bay.
Think this:
Initial sketch:
a quick model (again, this in no way is accurate. its just a rendering of my sketch rather than a model of what will go in the car)
Since the new trailing arms have the lower control arms an inch farther back I’m considering having something like this made up. As it says on the side, typically these aftermarket LCAs are forged 6061 aluminum. I’m not completely sure what material I should look into for them.
Other people who have used these trailing arms have cut out the subframe and relocated it an inch farther back in order to use stock LCAs. Again this solution should allow me to avoid cutting and welding more than necessary.
Lastly, due to concerns about exhaust routing and engine bay airflow I’ve been considering removing the tub for the spare tire and making a flat trunk bottom which would bolt up to the subframe reinforcement (the first assembly I posted). I am concerned about removing too much structure around the subframe and unnecessarily removing material, but in the end I simply can’t find another way to route the exhaust. It looks like it will have to go over the subframe.
Has anyone else done this before? Also I cant see your sketches, I assume because we are not friends on FB. Can we be friends? :lol I may not have much to offer, but very interested.
Yep, its been done I think 4 times 4 different ways not too mention a few times on other Honda chassis. I’ll post up some pictures a descriptions of each.
The first that I know of was the top fuel del sol. Despite most people being familiar with the car, no details of the build/design of it have been shared.
Because its a B16 motor it must have some very custom linkages for the transmission.
The next appears to have disappeared from the internet. lovefab took a del sol and “tube framed” it with what looked like 2"x2" square tubing and had an H22 due to the cable linkage of the transmission. EDIT here are two pictures:
The third that appeared was done by white sol on Honda-tech and this was has a ton of pictures of the build. He used a donor car to steal the front bulkheads from and welded them into the back.
I don’t like how this one went together all too much
The third was built by “tim” and some pictures of the build have been leaked but with no details. Its pretty obvious as to how he built it, but how he tied it all in to the unibody I am still unsure of. This swap used a k24/k20.
I simplified my vision for the frame rail. Top two sketches are the rail in its current form with the cross hatch area being where I anticipate the supplemental one to sit. The bottom two are the rail after the insert is welded in and the existing rail is cut to merge the contours of the two.
The page you requested cannot be displayed right now. It may be temporarily unavailable, the link you clicked on may have expired, or you may not have permission to view this page.
I’m looking into fuel cells and was hoping I could get some recommendations. I want to be running E85 so I assume the aluminum cells are out (unless anodized)
Plastic cell will work, unless you plan to spend more money to have a cell made with a bladder. IIRC , summit may actually sell a steel cell with a bladder
-go the route I did and buy a bladder from ATL and make your own cell shell. Summit cell listed above is essentially the HDPE cell you listed in a steel casing but still safer than the bare shell.
-make your own shell around HDPE cell
I would not use that plastic cell on it’s own for any motorsport use. Most won’t even allow it.
What, that summit cell? it’s really just a thin HDPE cell like you listed in a two piece steel shell. It adds a bit more safety margin to the mix. The ATL bladder I bought was just under $600, so it’s definitely a cheap(cost) alternative to the mix.
The only issue with it is setting it up for EFI as it’s meant for dirt track guys going in one direction only. You’ll have to modify the internal pickup, and run it to an inline pump that has self prime OR set the sump up for an intank pump feeding a surge tank setup and inline pressure pump. Both easy to do. The latter is what I did(used a “black box” with walbro intank pump on custom sender).
Edit, I think the easiest thing to do would be to get a couple ATL or Fuel Safe corner pickups and glue them into the inner bladder, then just run to a self priming inline pump outside the tank. Would be cheap and reliable.
Only reason I did what I did was because nobody offered a premade cell in the size I needed to have, so I had to make my own shit to fit and put a small cage brace around it.
