130 compression for a honda is super low, ours depending on cams and gauge, but usually are around 180 for a 9:1 motor. Maybe you guys have a timing issue or something else is going on, might be time for a leak down too.
Mike…fire sleeve link. Also provides the nice stainless loop clamps and the tool used to secure it(although not really needed) You don’t necessarily need the clamps either, just buy enough to cover the oil line from the turbo up to the valve cover and for the coolant line from the turbo up over past the DP a bit. Could always cover the rear coolant line as well for safety. Stuff is not that bad for what it does(and protects). 5/8" size should be big enough, 9/16" may be too. I’ll measure tomorrow and get you a size + quantity…
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/aqfiresleeve.php
Yea I haven’t had a huge amount of time to throw at the motor end of this car. Mikes on a tight budget with the cage and I just stuck to some simple things in the hour I put to it. I believe Mike mentioned Brooks put this motor together ??? Could be wrong on that. Probably am… :shrug: Timing is on, but Mike made no reference to what cam is in this. Overlap would most definitely play an issue on the comp #'s if this is in fact an after market unit. I guess I’ll pull the VC tomorrow and find out. Gauges do go bad too, so I will go pull one of mine down at Hunts and double check the numbers. Motor is zero, hours from what I understand, thus any leak down tests will not be 100% conclusive but it’s an easy process on these little motors. I’ve got a couple more hours to throw at it tomorrow before I have to pull anything else in. Comp low or not, motor won’t run w/o fuel.
Thanks for the heads up on the CR.
Comp cam in it, motor is at 0 hours.
I never really cared for them untill I’ve actaully started to read up on em. Sexy looking car!
I believe I have identified the two problems I am currently having with the car:
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Injector wiring is shotty. ECU is throwing “Injector” code. This will be a simple fix once I get new connectors and clips.
-
I think that the low compression is due to the fact I have not done a valve adjustment yet. Hopefully this is the case, if not I may have a bent valve.
as far as the cage, I have begun to strip the rust and paint it black. The craftsmanship on it is top notch. :thumb
Next time I get home I should be able to finish cleaning up the cage, fix the wiring, and get it running.
THAT is a SICK cage :thumb
bravo boxersix
Not my best work, but the best I can do with a pre-fab cage that was slightly bent from the start. Looks good all painted up… Benny, give me just a couple more days…I’ll show you a SICK cage, something I make from scratchy scratch right in house 
Mike, feel free to give me a shout if you have any questions on the valve adjustment.
id recommend not using spray paint but instead using POR 15 expensive but will be able to handle the daily abuses of getting in and out of the car, and things bouncing against it.
POR should never be used on a cage in a race car, or in a car’s cabin period. POR is very flammable even dry, and buring POR releases highly toxic fumes that cause bigtime nerve damage real fast. Far worse than your typical paint. Similar to burning VITON which is deadly, makes buring plastic seem like childs play. It’s due to the chemical nature of the epoxy in POR. Any car that’s tracked or raced is at risk of crashing and fire…use at your own risk. POR has it’s place, but in a car is not one of them.
Areas on a cage that get boucned on…that’s what OMP cage sock and/or tube padding is for…
MUHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
:naughty
Car looks sick Mike!
sorry but you must be mistaken, ive spoken with the reps down at por15 and they have assured me it is perfectly safe for this type of use. it is not flammable.
looks good!
Both HMIS and NFPA rate POR 15’s chassis coat at a fire hazard of 2. Its definitely flammable, and definitely urethane based meaning toxic.
Until you light it on fire though, it’s awesome at what it does.
Mistaken I am not, POR is most definitely flammable and is highly toxic when burning. I’ve seen the shit burn at tracks during accidents personally. 99% of the time sales reps of any company don’t know jack shit about the chemical breakdown of their products. They just read shit from a book to answer your questions. Do yourself a favor and don’t trust sales reps on products in the racing field. Do your own research on the chemical properties of that stuff and get hardcore answers, and read the MSDS on products like these. You’ll get better information and answers that way. I’ve been doing that in the chassis/rollcage motorsport arena for the past 15 years. No bullshit here.
Clark…chassis is just about done. I’ll be posting some sort of pics soon.
Mike
Ruh roh…
I know of someone who painted their engine block in POR 15.
That’s fine, it’s outside the cockpit. Back when I helped Pete out at KTA, I stripped a bare chassis of a '68 Mustang fastback that the owner completely covered in black POR15 inside and out. Oh so bad.
nuff of the POR shit, let’s keep Mike’s thread on topic
i saw your car at synapse one day. safe to say i raped it with my eyeballs. definately sexy. 10 thumbs up
Thanks. …I think. :lol
I finally got a weekend off of training next week. My goal is gonna be to replace the injector wiring and give it a base tune so I can break in the engine. The only problem is this is part intensive for shit I don’t have.
I need:
Chip burner,
OBD1 injector clips+pigtails
and a couple of the injector wiring connectors.
I’ve still got a burner for you, sir- let me know. The wiring and clips, eh, no can-do there- I’ve got all OBD0 stuff still.