That would be great if I could barrow that for a day or two, it looks like I am all set with the OBD1 injector wiring now. :thumb
bum[pers
hows the harness coming? you did get it rite?
I did, thanks a bunch :drink
Cant wait to get home friday, I dont think I am gonna sleep all weekend Im just gonna work on it all through the night.
That’s the way to go, man! Who needs sleep when you’ve got a bunch of important stuff to do on the car! :number1
So a quick recap of last weekend…
pulled the dash and the intake manifold to replace the injector harness, did that and the car still didnt fire.
Checked wires for continually according to the wiring diagram… all good.
I borrowed Lyndons chip burner and set myself up with a new basemap. Thanks a bunch Lyndon!
To try and trouble shoot a little bit more I moved over to the PGM relay which I thought might be bad. After a little bit of research I found that it could in fact cause the problems I have been having… I pulled that out and inspected it and it looked fine. I figured I would replace it anyway, however there is not a single pep boys, autozone, nor napa that stocks a damn civic PGM relay. :confused
So I had to put the thing back together and cover it up in the garage again. Basically I got nothing done at all.
I head back to school and I find this:
After a little bit of searching in my haynes manual I am finally 100% confident I know what the problem is. The PGM ground wire… I simplified where and how my sensors and ECUs were grounded without realizing that the PGM is grounded on the thermostat housing. Next time I am home I will simply ground it to the relay’s mounting bolt and see if it will start up. I am sure it will.
In the mean time, I am going to begin to buy all the parts that I need to finish off the car:
quick release steering wheel
Foam for roll bar
Sleeving for oil lines that adam posted
battery kill switch
ECtune with ostrich
and so on, I cant remember
anyway, I am bored so I am going to put together a mod list now
No problem at all, sir! I’m not sure if it’s the same PGM ground circuit on my car (off the small leg of the t-stat housing), but I know that’s a fairly common ground that people forget- I’ve done that at least one of the times I had swapped out motors- tends to ‘cook’ the ground wire from the valve cover to the radiator support.
Hopefully that is it- good job!
is this thing running yet?
What do you mean cook that ground wire? Will I have a problem if I ground it in the cabin you think?
Engine:
GT28RS turbo
Synapse custom ramhorn
Synapse 3" downpipe
Glass pack resonator
Thermal muffler
2.5" chargepiping
Sard Blow off valve
JRC intercooler
edelbrock intake manifold
Port and polished Y8 head
Crower cam, valve springs, retainers
AEM cam gear
Benson Sleeved Y8 block
.20 over CP pistons
Eagle rods
ARP rod bolts
cometic gasket
ARP headstuds
ACL bearings
new oil and water pumps
Full length fluidyne radiator
B&M oil cooler
Mocal oil sandwhich adapter with thermostat for oil cooler
braided steel hoses for oil cooler, turbo oil, turbo coolant
Electronics/fuel
Walbro pump
Denso 720cc injectors
Apexi turbo timer
Greddy type-s boost controller
ECU currently with Hondata S100b for sale soon
nordskog digital gauges: oil temp, pressure, boost
PLX wideband
Wheels/tires/brakes/suspension
9 lb Enkei RPF1 15x7 +31
Yoko Advan A032R 205/50/15
Hawk pads
Brembo rotors up front
PIC Performance APEX coilovers
PIC Performance LCAs
GSR rear sway
Bah, thats good enough for now
I meant, when you completely forget connect the ground that goes to the t-stat housing, the ‘other’ ground wire that goes from the top dr side valve cover nut to the radiator support (on a d16a6) tends to melt a bit. Relocating it should be fine, depending on the resistance of wherever you eventually ground it to. ‘Should’ be fine grounding it in the cabin. Just check and see if it’s getting (excessively) warm when you do eventually try it.
That glasspack resonator - :thumb
car looks great… helluva build… did you figure out what the deal was with the low compression? I might’ve missed it.
Anyway I have a question for you… I just put Fuj’s Del Sol together last night and the new motor/tranny is in and running… however the throwout bearing seems to be awfully noisy. When i put it in I used lube on the inside where it slides on the tranny shaft and right where the fork touches it. I did NOT pack the bearing with grease as I assumed it is a sealed type like most. The bearing came in the clutch kit he got on ebay with a lightweight fidanza flywheel and an exedy clutch. Should i be packing these bearings with grease? Why is it noisy?
Fidanza’s, or LWFW in most cases, are noisey to begin with. Lightening the FW changes input harmonics to the transmission, thus the reason why if you ditch a dual mass for a single mass(like Porsche C2 Turbo) you inherit a rattle in the tranny. Can be mistaken for a bad TB easily. Jesse Clarks M3 tranny sounds like it’s going to tear itself apart at idle with the LWFW but in reality is just fine.
TOB’s should never be greased internally, unless your car is from the roaring 20’s :lol Greasing the pilot giude was good though.
replied in my own thread… sorry for the hijack!
NP, let me know if you guys need any parts for that thing. I have enough to build another sol.
I believe the issue with the compression is the lack of a valve adjustment. I am going to start by assuming that and if it doesnt fix the problem go from there. I am positive the problem is in the head and not the block (rings) all that crap was brand new and spec’d by hunts before it was assembled by brooks. I put on the head. :lol
lol at least you’re open to admiting it! ahahah good luck with it … if you want a hand get a hold of me… I like working on hondas… i should get me a project hatch or something.
I might send you a message next time I am pulling it apart, it tedious working on some things alone and makes things like dash removal a complete bitch. :sad
Someone needs to buy the AFI Ramhorn that I bought a while ago so I can buy all this crap I need to tie up lose ends:http://shift518.com/index.php?topic=488.0http://shift518.com/index.php?topic=488.0
And while I am posting, I’ll add transmission to my mod list here.
Trans
Spec stage 3 sprung 6 puck clutch/pressure plate
Stock flywheel
New bearings
New syncros/hubs for 2nd/3rd
OBX Limited slip
I just ordered a whole pile of new shit from JVG, it just about finishes off my build (although im still waiting to hear about the firesleeve and roll bar padding)
I get done with school next week and at that point ill be working non stop to get this thing done.
hey i can get u the paddin idk how much but i can let u know in the next day or 2
where from? are you talking real certified roll bar padding or like pipe insulation?