It’s not a stock camshaft so he can’t just go off the timing marks for this ad get it dead nuts.
Mike, you need to adjust the lash for each valve at the very base of the cam lobes. This was the stuff I was talking about with the degree wheel and and dial indicator while using the duration specs for the particular cam your running. Using a degree wheel will help you determine exactly where the base circle of the cam is and where the center of it is as well. dial indicator tells you exactly when the valves are opening so you know when you’re moving into the ramp of the cam lobe and need to back off. It can be done without one, it’s just going to take a much longer time to do it and won’t be as accurate. Being in the car, you might be able to fit a 6" degree wheel to the camshaft gear but you may have to take the mount off the side of the motor to give you proper clearance.
Degree wheel gear gets fitted to camshaft or cam gear, motor set to as close to TDC #1 as possible, point set to zero. Dial indicator setup on head pointing perfectly straight down at the top of one valve retainer, start with #1 intake. Take #1 intake lash that indicator is on and tighten down the adjuster by finger until it stops. Zero out indicator. Back off ALL other lash adjusters for clearance. Rotate engine clockwise until indicator pointer starts to move, write down the degree off the degree wheel. Now rotate the engine counter-clockwise past zero until the indicator moves again and write down that degree mark. Find the center between these to degree marks on the wheel and rotate the motor to that position. You are now centered on th base circle of that cam lobe. You can now set the valve lash for that particular intake valve.
Now knowing the cam duration from your manufactures spec, you can rotate the motor through the firing sequence to set all the intake lash on all base circles using the degree wheel to get it dead on. On typical 4 cylinder motor firing orderds(1,3,4,2) you’ll rotate 90 degrees on the cam degree wheel. If you wanted to just go right down the length of the head you’d typically rotate the cam 270 degrees for each cylinder(1,2,3, then 4) Repeat the process for the exhaust side. This is the most accurate and proper way to zero in an aftermarket camshaft for valve adjustment.
Adjusting valve lash under the adjuster itself can be a bit of a trick and why I prefer the backside method of measureing between the cam lob and follower/rocker, but you have to figure out that clearance based off rocker ratio and stuff like that. Better for someone building or tuning alot of one particular motor. Anyway, the adjuster lock nuts don’t need to be super tight, and remember just a bit of light drag on the feeler gauge is what you’re after especially on a race motor where the valves are likely to expand an additional .00015" when on the track.
Degreeing the cam is much more of a process, especially with the engine in the car. I just want to see if I can cut down on the compression loss for now and maybe get it drivable.
I had the car running this morning, it would run if I kept my foot on the gas slightly. I am assuming this is due to the lack of a tune.
It started 4 or 5 times consistently and then I changed the chip and it wouldnt start. Changed the chip back and it still wont start.
Maybe I can find an ostrich to setup my ECtune with since mine is on backorder.
valve adjustment done. Still need the cam degreed and the valves redone. Since my Ostrich and hulog got back ordered I cant tune the car myself right now. I am gonna have to get a “break in tune” from a local shop.
Regaurdless, it runs and stays running. Its pretty loud and burns some oil… I assume it will be fine once the rings seat.
Xenocron Chris is coming up on Friday to help me lay down a base tune. I should be ready for this trip on sunday ;D
Only problem right now is some small cuts in the back tire from rubbing down my driveway (really didnt think a few feet would do it that bad) The car is now another inch higher in the back but the tire worries me a little bit. I have no clue where to get a A032R in 15" size right now, I cant even find them used.
I ordered it last month, I just haven’t been able to get it from JVG yet…
With that being said, the oil temps are a thing of beauty. turn on the car, 90…95…100, start pulling out… 120…130…140, get on the turbo 170…175…176 T-stat opens up to the cooler, 175…176…175…176
;D
anyway, I am hoping to do a dyno rental sometime in the upcoming weeks. Would you be able to work out your schedule so you could be there and offer some tech support?
