Modding 4x4 trucks

Bought my truck last winter, did some minor stuff to it so far but now thinking about power. Is it worth doing bolt ons to something not built for fun?

2011 Ram Sport, QC 5.7 4x4. Loaded, leather/Nav etc

So far:
Retro Solutions HIDs
Tinted front windows
LED white plate bulbs
Cravenspeed stub antenna
Debadged doors/tailgate
Magnaflow 14" Mufflex Exhaust
Rear drop springs 1.5"
Tonnopro cover
K&n filter

As you see it’s basic bullshit. I see a lot of guys do bigger throttle body, Elec fan, tuner, vanaram(intake) and some guys go deeper obviously. Is it truly worth it? Truck moves pretty good as is but I just want a little more…

Tuning it is gonna be your biggest issue , vararam is the best intake out and we are a dealer for them . The t.b isn’t needed till really modded

I put a power programmer on my truck and it changed the shift points and firmed up the shifting and now the truck isn’t so much of a dog off the line and doesn’t go into overdrive at 35 mph. I don’t really think it gained a lot of performance but it did what I wanted it to. Before it seemed to take forever to merge into traffic and get up to speed.

Other than that and a reusable air filter ($18 on ebay and a shit paper one is $11) I haven’t done any performance type stuff to it. It still has the stock exhaust.

Its at a shop now getting leveling struts and bigger tires put on. It needed struts and tires anyway and I just decided to get bigger tires and lift up the front a little (2").

The only other ‘mods’ I did were installing driving lights in the grille and putting on a tonneau cover.

I don’t want to go crazy with it and its never going to be fast.

Why did you lower a 4x4?

Updated above, forgot a couple things.

This truck is no dog merging, tires break lose no problem. Which is the only reason I want to mod it a little further, being that its impressive stock for a truck.

As for lowering rear, it had wayyyyy to much rake. All dodges do. So 1.5" took a little rake out. You can’t tell unless you know what your looking at. I may go with a full lowering kit soon, 2/4 looks good with 22" oem rt wheels. As for why, well it’s my preference over lifted. I like the sport truck look over lifted.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h52/Criscone/null_zps1cb189d4.jpg

Before…excessive rake

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h52/Criscone/null_zpsaeaaa70c.jpg

good looking truck. what are you getting for mileage?

Mine had quite a rake so that’s why I leveled the front 2". Ill try to get some pics tomorrow when I get it back.

If I remember right the Rams have 400 hp or close to it and my truck has 300 hp.

I have a 2012 Quad Cab hemi 4x4 bought it brand new about a year ago now. Absolutely love it. Mine has the factory 3.92 rear gear set, upgraded tranny cooler, and a few other factory upgraded things. I’ve done similar mods as you.

Line-x, tri fold tonneau, nerf bars, tinted windows, in-channel vent visors, mufflex 14", rbz touch screen factory head unit, k&n filter.

I bought retro’s HID’s and returned them, just had no interest once i actually received them lol, and for some reason the LED license plate bulbs i bought just wouldn’t work (yes i tried reversing the polarity) so i returned those as well.
I plan on buying a shorty antenna, and once my warranty is up I’ll probably go with a lift kit (if i even own the truck that much longer which is doubtful)

From all the research I’ve done. You wont get much more out of our truck without putting a pretty penny into it. For example a cam, intake manifold, throttle body, and proper tune. But I think you’re wasting your time, it’s your daily driver. IIRC its got 395hp and 405tq, mine will blow the tires off like its nothing. Nitrous is easy, but why put it on your pickup truck that you need every day? You wont see much of anything from a cold air intake, I think lowering your 4x4 is somewhat foolish, but to each his own. I would’ve put a leveling kit in the front end if the rake annoyed you that much, but like you said, you like a sport truck look.

Do you tow anything? If so look into the Tow mirrors, I think they are fantastic, my truck came with them stock and the factory brake controller, however they won’t look as clean on your truck as the mirrors you have now, they’re a bit big and obtrusive so on a lowered debadged clean looking ride they may not jive. plus they are black so with body matched door handles they may change the look of your truck in a way that you aren’t intending. but functionality wise you can not beat them.

Another thing is the tuners for the 2011+ dodges don’t squeeze much more power out of the vehicles. Mopar released whatever the companies needed to unlock the factory ecm’s not too long ago and all that i’ve read from other ram owners is that the tuners that are out, aren’t very impressive in performance enhancement.

Hope this helps somewhat, just my opinion.

Curious to know this as well…

I am a lead foot and get about 14 city and 18 highway. However, I’ve noticed during winter my mileage drops drastically which i found strange. I average maybe 12 city and 15 highway, at best. I do not idle my truck for any more than 30 seconds to 1 min before driving. I get my fuel at the same gas station year round 99% of the time. So i am not sure what the explanation is. Also, I just took a 6 hour road trip where I was in no hurry, set my cruise control at 60mph the whole way and got 20.3 mpg on the dash. Filled up just before hitting the highway then again when I arrived and divided the miles by the amount of fuel consumed and came up with 20.2 so I found that pretty impressive.

needs nos to keep up with a honda civic. dont get a cam and build motor.

[ame=“http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07Gq_l9Yjpc”]Dodge Ram on dyno-without and with nitrous - YouTube[/ame]

this truck reminds me of the rental truck with nos.

[ame=“http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1CA3EyUGto”]NITROUS burnout in rental car - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=“http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iLIZ08eC7k”]Rental Car Nitrous kit install how to - YouTube[/ame]

winter your mpg drop thats obvious.

http://www.metrompg.com/posts/winter-mpg.htm

Why is that obvious? Ive had nearly 15 vehicles and haven’t ever noticed a decrease in mileage that dramatic in any of them.

9 reasons your winter fuel economy bites

  1. More idling

This should be a no-brainer, yet parked idling cars are a common sight in cold weather. Resist the temptation to idle your car to warm it up. An idling engine gets 0 mpg. Consider also that idling the engine does nothing to warm up the tires and drivetrain.

Even in the coldest weather, you can begin driving after 30 seconds from a cold start - keep speeds low/moderate and use gentle acceleration until the temperature gauge starts to climb (source).

  1. Low tire pressure

Of course you’re smart enough to keep up your tire pressure as the temperature drops, right? A 10-degree (F) change in ambient temperature equates to a 1 psi change in tire pressure (source). Fuel economy declines 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop (source).

  1. Increased rolling resistance

Even if you’re completely attentive to proper tire pressure, cold ambient temperatures will still cause your tires to return worse mileage. That’s because a tire’s shape isn’t completely round - the sidewall bulges out at the bottom, and where the tread meets the road the small contact patch is actually flat. As the tire rotates, it constantly deforms to this shape, and this deformation requires more energy when the rubber is cold and hard. Rolling resistance at 0 degrees F is 20% greater than at 80 degrees (source 1, source 2).

  1. Crappy road conditions

It’s increased rolling resistance of another kind: driving through slush and snow. And then there’s its wasteful polar (no pun intended) opposite: no friction at all! (A.K.A. wheelspin on ice.)

  1. Lower average engine temperature

In the winter, an engine takes longer to reach operating temperature and cools off faster when shut off. Since the engine management system orders up a richer mixture when cold (proportionately more fuel in the air/fuel combination), more fuel is being burned overall.

A block heater can offset this problem (improving fuel economy by 10% in sub-zero conditions - source), as can garage parking, and combining trips (to minimize the number of cold/hot cycles).

Also related…

  1. Higher average lubricant viscosity

Engine oil thickens as it cools. So does transmission and differential fluids and even bearing grease. Significantly more energy is needed to overcome the added drag these cold lubricants cause.

Using synthetic fluids can address this problem, since their viscosity changes less at extreme temperatures than traditional mineral fluids.

  1. Weaker gasoline

Gasoline doesn’t vaporize readily at very cold temperatures. So oil companies formulate fuel differently for cold-weather markets in the winter. Unfortunately, the changes that provide better cold vaporization characteristics also result in less available energy for combustion. You won’t get as far on a liter of winter gas as you will on a liter of summer gas. (Source.)

  1. Higher electrical loads

In colder temps, you use electrical accessories more often:

  • lights (in higher lattitudes it’s darker in the winter)
  • rear window defroster (because it’s easier than using the ice scraper, right?)
  • heater blower motor (I don’t have a/c, so this isn’t balanced out during warm conditions); heated seats/mirrors
  • windshield washer pump (because it’s easier than using the ice scraper, right? And for frequently cleaning off dirty road spray.)
  1. More aerodynamic drag

No, I’m not referring to the layer of snow you’re too lazy to brush off the top of the car (though that would hurt mpg too).

A vehicle’s aerodynamic drag is proportional to air density, and the density increases as temperature drops. For every 10 degree F drop in temperature, aerodynamic drag increases by 2% (source).

maybe you never payed attention to your other vechiles

The first video in this post is a an 03-05 ram i think with absolutely nothing compared to the stock power and drivability that our 2009+ Ram’s have… I’ve driven both. They’re night and day in performance and comfort.

i agree with that. but a 09+ is about 300whp thats not much considering you have a huge truck

with cai, headers exhaust and a tune you might hit 350whp

Well out of your 9 reasons I see maybe 1 that should explain the drop in my mileage by nearly 4 mpg typically.

Maybe I should’ve specified… As previously stated, I do not idle my truck, matter of fact the idle time listed in my OP matches what your website reccomends. My tire pressure is always regulated properly, how often do we drive in poor road conditions, like snow and slush? Like once a month nowadays? And I completely disagree with a higher electrical load in the winter as well as the lower average engine temp. Whether it’s 20 degrees or 100 degrees I’ve seen nearly no difference in how long it takes my truck to reach operating temp.

Agreed 100% if comparing that power to weight to that of a sports car or the power to weight my duramax yielded. But i think the OP wanted an opinion on whether or not its worth putting money into the performance of his truck, and if he plans on spending big bucks, then yes it will net him a nice noticeable gain, but if hes looking at a programmer and cold air intake, my experience and opinion is that its a complete and total waste of time and $. I think you’re right on the money, stock 2011 hemi i saw made 306 whp. they move out pretty damn well for that power though, the power band is what makes the truck, its well put together. Constantly pulls thru the rpm range and the power is there instantly. So that 300whp feels much better than what the numbers portray in this case.

I just think that going for headers and a full exhaust system and a tune is a waste. Without making myself sound stupid because i have no evidence to fall back on at this point, I really doubt you’ll see 50 whp gain out of an exhaust and tune, but it’s certainly not out of the question. Every factory exhaust manifold is extremely restrictive and all factory tunes are conservative.

you can disagree with science but that doesnt mean your right.

maybe show me some evidence that your car takes same amount of time to warm up weather its 20degrees outside or 100. i find that as bs

Call it science, but some of that article seems to be written by someone like you and I not proven and showing evidence by any trials or experiments of any kind with one particular or more than one vehicle. only evidence shown is the science behind the aerodynamic drag and air density really. And i’ve certainly paid attention to all of my vehicles in all details, im a jew fuck anything thats costing me more money needs to be noticed and addressed. And im not sure what evidence you’d like other than a timed video now, and a timed video in january of my temp gauge? My dash tells me exactly the degree of coolant oil and tranny fluid, i can tell ya for certain that once ive hit a certain point in my daily commute, its always reached full operating temp no matter what temperature it is outside and this point is maybe 1.5-2 miles from my house…so the time that it takes in summer or winter considering the distance, really shouldnt be much of a factor. This is what i base my statement about it reaching operating temp in nearly the same timeframe on.