There are a bunch of ways to make it happen.
My biggest concern would be finding a way with published configuration info for HP tuners because screwing up that VSS table can brick the PCM.
I would assume then just buy something like this and hook up both the VSS from the PCM and the Speedo Cable:
Drew - It won’t hurt anything…and you get the best of both worlds. I don’t see a part number for the adapter with the cable output. We can confirm the harness plug on Thursday and maybe call them.
When NYSpeed is at its best. 
You can also run a driveshaft split collar/magnet setup. It’s what I ended up doing on mine since I have no vss provision on my jerico.
http://www.racepak.com/Components/Collars.php
That works with a GM VSS sensor run back to the PCM.
The pic is dark. Thanks though and ill get something with more filter! ha
We can order thursday
That is the one I was trying to order. It is currently out of stock from summit and dakota.
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<3
Everything worked well for you? Another good option.
Yeah. Mine is on the ujoint right off the trans. Just had to tell the PCM how many pulses per mile with hptuners.
This info is very helpful because you just answered another question that I can modify the HPtuners to the pulses. You see any reason I shouldn’t try the dakota one? That way I can run a cable to the factory speedo as well.
No reason not to, I know that’s a solution a lot of guys go with. I didn’t because I was running canbus output to my Racepak.
Thanks guys.
So today after work I went and grabbed a spare powerglide. Tore the housing apart, pressed the ear I was missing off of the tailshaft, used a piece of 1.5" stainless tube to slide hammer “press” that joint on, and then @pirite put it back together while I cut holes into the hood. Trans cross member, tailshaft gear and housing installed, and driveshaft.
@ProgRocker was in charge of inspirational music aka riff raff
Man I am going to be tired at work tomorrow.
WTB: tall fucking jackstands.
lol
Oh man I probably shouldn’t tell you they are on the lowest setting… hahaha I have been saying I should raise it for like 8 months.
Lol, I’m wiped today, it’s tiring watching you guys, I need redbull.
Yeah I am smoked. Getting old
Pics!
Gear removed from spare glide, Used alum rod and hammer. Tap tap tap.
Everything under the car apart. No pics buttoned up but installed that gear above using 1.5" stainless tube Tap tap tap.
Plug that I accidentally popped into the trans the other day.
Cut a hole in my hood? No problem
couldn’t help but think of this
what did you cut the hole with? looks clean
I use a carbide burr setup ran by an air compressor.
you mean there are ways to cut things besides a cutoff wheel?
:tup:
haha yeah. I was considering using a cutoff to start it but I just didn’t want the risk of an accident and messing up the paint. So I drilled holes and setup the latch where I wanted it to drop, taped in the template then worked my way out. I did as much grinding from the bottom so if it runs out it wasn’t in a visible area. Glad I took the time to tape/cardboard the top because it did runout twice.
This system i’d say start to finish is a 4hr job to do right but cleans up the bay and it seems I never have room for a latch. This is the second time I have used these.
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One last note on the carbide bits. I have used some cheaper ones from Eastwood and I don’t like them at all compared to the one I grabbed from Praxair like 3 years ago.
The one I use I want to say was $60-$80 but I have been using it on crazy stuff for about 3 years now and it works better then the cheaper ones brand new.
I used to work with Praxair, they have some of the best quality carbides you can get. They have commercial accounts all over the hemisphere.
Clean work, Aerocatch?
Yes aerocatch and thank you. Glad I setup the cardboard and took my time with the carbide.
You don’t happen to know the main vendors at Praxair for the Carbides do you?