Why isn’t my glide car a street car again? Are you aware that I drive 100ish miles round trip to the track? I get about 20mpg.
I have no need for overdrive. 3.27 gear + 30" tire.
To be very clear. This is a 100% false claim. I would drive my car from coast to coast on this setup.
When are we leaving? I’m ready.
I have never been in a turbo car with a tight stall… all my experiences were in a high stall car.
How does that work? Under low load, low boost it locks low? Say 2500rpm, but under load and high boost it flashes higher say 3600?
Yep. Fluid make a big difference as well. But again stall speed in that scenario would screw someone even with a gear vendor overdrive if they couldn’t lockup the verter.
Mine for example is a PTC unit I ran a 15-0(fin count) last season. Would hold around 2-2.5k under light throttle and 3k when goosing it. under boost though say on the trans brake I could bring it right up to 5-6k if needed.
on my new setup I am on a 13-0(tighter) and will probably need to go even tighter. I would expect this to cruise all day at 1.8-2.2k
On my combo I can cruise at 70mph around 2500rpm. I have enough gear-tire to go through the traps at 202mph fully locked(7300) so realistically only about 185 after converter slip. They still slip up top 3-10%
lol youre more than welcome to come out and install it
:bsflag: Another $100 bucks LZ? hate hate hate
Yeah. Im clearly not driving coast to coast to prove a point. But 100% the glide with the right converter,gear,tire is fine for highway use. Speaking from years of experience.
Solid
Trust me I know it sounds cray at first. I get told its not streetable quite often since for MOST applications a glide does in fact result in bad highway drivability. But I do really drive it 50+mi at a time with no issues at all. Our biggest issue is getting the gas out of the tank to fill up on c16 at the track cause it uses so little on the way out haha.
Glad you brought that up… I’m wondering if I / we can incorporate an inline valve that won’t leak to clear out a tank for fuel switches, and a purge switch… hmm
I pull the return fitting off of my cell and let my fuel pump take care of it. Stick the line in an empty 5gal and let it rip(pump on manual switch or let the car idle). I always say I will switch for the way home to save the c16 but we never do. I usually just pour it in at that point and run c16/93 mix for a few days haha
Put a quick disconnect inline with the return line under the back of the car or somewhere, (return line so you dont need to worry about any restrictions on the feed line). Disconnect it, plug in a short stub of line dropped into a can, activate fuel pump relay. win?
Dan
Treed! 
Essentially what i do. just in the trunk from the cell so I dont need to get on the ground.
haha, I saw that.
Good idea too 
Dan
Awesome, what can you get the stall to flash on the foot brake? I get it, I just never thought about it that way.
Once I come up on boost the limiting factor on the footbrake is the stall catching up but it will start pushing through the brakes. I can stall around 4k on the footbrake rough guess. 10-15psi. On the trans brake I could run it to the limiter if i let full boost come in. Found that out when I accidentally launched at 20psi and exploded a u-joint.
LoL surprise
If anyone wants to see pics I share some updates on instagram via ablake211 also i have FB i go on sometimes just for car things at weld monster fabrication
Not sure i have a hp goal but something like 1500-1800 and i hope it can run 7s once dialed in.
:tup:
Bump because Empire/NYIRP opening day is next weekend.