Great work Luke! I’d love to see a pic of the whole interior if you’ve got one:)
+1. I like mine nice and bright around town but on real long night drives I dim everything down so it’s barely visible. That usually includes wedging a folded piece of paper over the high beam indicator so it’s 1000 watt blue light isn’t blinding me.
Luke, we may end up doing this to my '91…
I’m game.
I have had Yellow, Red, and Green. I even had a Blue panel in my Grand Am. I wanted a crisp clean color. That was why I went for white.
Technically I can but the LEDs will not dim evenly without a PWM, Pulse-Width-Modulation, circuit. I can use the OEM rheostat/dimmer to “Reduce the Voltage” and make them dimmer but they almost cut out immediately as the forward voltage is 9 volts. So it will dim to an extent. I have not driven the car with this yet so I don’t know if it will be an issue. I don’t think it will be.
I know I don’t have what you are looking for (Maybe in a few weeks) but here is the interior from when I bought the Car (Pic courtesy of Joe :)):
I replaced the steering wheel with a 3 point wheel from an 01 Celica GTS (Airbag not installed in this pic) and Gauge rings:
Celica GT-S pedals and modified dead-pedal:
I also have custom made Black Leather/Dark Gray Suede Seat covers and Door panels (No pic).
The parts to be installed for this summer:
New Wheels/Tires
TRD Frt/Rear Sway Bars
TRD Springs
Koni Struts
SS Autochrome Headers (Courtesy of Bing. Thanks Bing)
PUR Bushings
98 OEM Solid Side Trim
98 OEM Corner Lights (Clear)
OEM Fog Lights
Still need to get:
93 Turbo Brake Setup
SS Lines (Clutch and Brakes)
Sway bar endlinks
That will do it for what I wanted to get done this winter. No plans for tackling the motor at the moment. It is pretty stout the way it is right now and I want to actually drive the car. I need more planning before I touch it anyways.
Well, I finished making the bulbs for my gauge cluster…it definitely needs improvement:
I have a few more things I can try to eliminate the hotspots or at least break them up. I will get more detailed pics of how I made them in the event anyone else wants to give this a go.
Can always use an EL panel instead…
True. The most uniform light source is EL. Period.
But, there are a couple draw backs that turn me personally away from it. Don’t get me wrong. EL is a good, though outdated, means for lighting IMO.
- EL light degrades typically around 1200 hours of operation by 20% and will continue to degrade unknowingly over time. Granted that is 45 days of constant operation so it is not THAT critical especially for the weekend enthusiast. Fact is that extreme temperature changes will affect it even more. A few seasons in an uninsulated/unheated garage can change brightness and/or color without the Lamp even being powered. This can be adjusted using a circuit that monitors the Lamp brightness and adjust the frequency that powers the light.
(I have tried to find some sources to back this up online. Truth is, I work for Astronics in EA, through testing I have personally done along with testing done previously where I work this is “OUR” rule of thumb. This is dependant on Lamp size, environment, burn-in time, and transformer consistency. Most tests were done in a cabin environment which means temperature and humidity controlled.)
-
EL operates around 115 VAC and roughly 400Hz. The freq. can be dialed in to adjust color shades with in a die. For example, a green lamp that lights up white can have a small green tint to it if you decrease the wave-length. Overtime the Lamp will degrade, seperate from the temperature condition, causing a shift in brightness and go from a crisp “White” or “Red” or “Green” to a dingy look. This is due to the phosphor material simply wearing down. Again, over the 1200 hours.
-
The Lamp itself, if not properly insulated, presents a danger to the rest of the cars electronics. You can insulate the leads to the lamp but if it is not properly encapsulated it could do some damage. THis really is not an arguing point as anything can be fucked up. But, with LED it is kind of it’s own protection (Low current and polarized).
Like anything if you are competent enough to work with it and do it right then you should have no problems. For me the benefits of going LED are less power consumption, rework capability, and more reliability. The car will be in the scrap heap before the LEDs die.
There really is no reason not to go EL. Just not my cup of tea. Good thought though.
I was wondering how long it would be before you started talking about airplane lights 
Yeah I was definitely disappointed when the bulbs were not super bright :lol: I had wide-angle 194s and they still had hotspots like yours. They looked cool, though.
I have EL gauges in my 300M - the lighting is great at night, but I have to dim it constantly. Too bright or maybe my eyes are shot lol.
Man, if you ever wanted to tackle a job like this on a vintage car, shoot me a PM. I would definitely like to do an LED conversion for my Mustang dash :tup:
1200?
Only at full duty cycle. in a car application it’ll do much more…
Haha, we deal mostly with cockpit lighting. But, we have done a lot of R&D for exterior lighting. Our brightest light is the HID light on the F35 which is over 300k ft-L.
Sure. I am always looking to help others where I can. A lot of trial and error went into this as I have been working on the interior lighting piece by piece and off and on since September…so it took some time. But, all told I have maybe 30 hours worth of work in it so far.
You’re right. It would not need to be pushed that much. At full-on some EL lights get pretty damn bright. Now that you mention it I would be curious to see what the degrade rate would be based on normal operation in a Car.
How is yours holding up? Can you adjust it seperately from the rest of your dash in your Exige?
Best part about EL is you can make it into to almost any 2D shape you want. We make and cut our own lamps here if you ever needed something made.
Everything looks really great
When I saw the title in this thread I was fearing the worst. I’m glad to see I was wrong. Everything looks great :tup:
Next time I will call the thread “check out my Siqqqqq LEDz…y0!”
Thanks for the comments guys…
300k Ft-L?!?!?!? It was over 500k when I left Astronics!!! what happened?
I love my FireStarter… :pimp: Nothing like lighting shit on fire from 1-2’ away just because I felt like it!!! LMAO!!!
So when are you going to steal us some of the new Altlion LEDs? So we can make some SERIOUS automotive lighting?
For a while I was putting LEDs in everything.
Granted I didn’t make my own like you.
Average or Total output is around 325k. There are some spots pushing 500k. Nothing has caught on fire in a while.
I have a bunch of Lumileds but no “star” PCBs or Altions.
Update:
I re-designed my bulb and the results are almost perfect:
I changed the camera setting to try to show that there are still some VERY small hotspots (If I didn’t point them out you would probably never see them…look at the 18 in the voltmeter and the E in the Fuel gauge). At this point I think I will leave it. The brightness is right where I want it.
This is the process I used to make the bulbs:
Each bulb has two 3-led strings in series with a resistor. These are mounted on a acrylic base I made then bonded to a 194 base I bought from www.autolumination.com
I soldered the 3-led strings back to back.
Next I mounted the 3-led strings on the acrylic base. Then I put two bases on a single stand.
Once I had the LEDs mounted I started attaching the resistors.
Each string is connect in series with 1 resistor. Then, using bus wire, I attach the strings together and run the wires down the bottom of the 194 base.
Because each bulb needs to be postioned at a different angle I test which way it needs to sit on the base. Once that is where it needs to be you can trim the leads, bond the base together, and bend the bus wire.
Overall it was a pretty “simple” mod with a LOT of complicated steps.
Awsome results. I love the brightness and clerity the LEDS give off. Wanna do the gauge cluster from my bike?Ha ha
huge :tup:
im jealous of your soldering skills.