need a little bit of work done on the side..

I need a little bit of work done on my saturn on the side for cash.

I’m not looking for a business to do it, just someone with a warm garage that has tools and knows what they are doing.

It is a saturn ion without ABS.

It needs either 1 or both front wheel bearings. Probably a 30 minute job per side.

It needs an intermediate steering shaft installed. Probably another 30 minute job.

It needs a fuel filter installed. About a 15 minute job.

I can provide all the parts.

I’m just looking for someone that knows what they are doing, and will put it back together the right way (new spindle nut, use a torque wrench, etc)…

Shoot me a pm, thanks…

i can see all of those jobs taking substantially more time than you’ve listed, especially for someone who has to jack up the car in their garage, etc etc.

Agreed sounds like an all day affair

I want someone with a garage to do full body work on my car, shouln’t take too long I have sand paper in 800 and 400 grit.

Let me know as well, thanks!

i can prolly do it at my house, pm me if your interested.

spend the money
bring it to a shop
trust me, will be worth it

A wheelbearing is much more than a 30 min job

not on the gm ones that bolt in (like on a cavalier, not sure if Saturn is like that) granted, you still have to be moving to get it done that fast. I think I came in at an hour and a half for two bearings and pads/rotors on an 02 cavalier, no air tools. Torqued, of course.

Oh, and I’m only paying 12$/hr. lol

PM Carnut if something doesn’t work out with Turbociv. Or support one of our great vendors on the site by taking your work to them…

Yea, bolt in with an interference fit, before rust. I agree, this will be an all day affair.

I’ll do it for the times listed, but it’s going to cost you $250/hr, and you have to leave your car for a whole day :lol:

Great help as usual from this forum. I’ve setup a mechanic friend of mine to do it.

I would be willing to do this. I’ve done two bolt in GM wheel bearings, but expect it closer to a couple hours per side. It can take some serious torching and hammering. Don’t even take it to some one if they don’t have a torch.

One was for my girlfriend and the other was a friend I charged $60. The one I actually spent over an hour heating and sledge hammering the rotor off because it was fused to the hub, I think it might have been from the heat of the shot wheel bearing.

Never expect things to go smoothly when working on older cars, especially from Buffalo. Also no real mechanic torques axle nuts down, gun pressure is fine. I mean do you expect mechanics to torque your lug nuts down too every time they work on your car, because they don’t.

Its a 2003 car not from buffalo, has no rust on it. The guy doing the work has more in snap-on tools than his house is worth, so its a pretty safe bet.

Well you probably listed times next to your requests as an indication of what you expect to pay…

you sound like a real awesome mechanic, what does this take, like a minute?

Well for $60 a side for the wheel bearings we could start from there and see how long the rest takes. I work in a snowy driveway though.

I have never had a problem with any repair I’ve done on a car. I’m just saying, the reputable mechanic I go to when I don’t do something myself doesn’t torque lug nuts or axle nuts after he is done. He is hands down the best mechanic I know. I can live with this.

Both times I did the nuts holding the wheel bearings in I just used a wrench, I mean do you check your caliper bracket bolts with a torque wrench, what about the bolts that go into the sliders? Strut mount bolts? Control arm bolts?

I’m not saying I wouldn’t use a torque wrench on a head, but it’s not hard to install chassis parts correctly without a torque wrench. I don’t even use a torque wrench to change spark plugs.

yes, yes, yes, yes. if the torque spec is available for a suspension, brake, or internal engine part I use it. spark plugs, no.

except on wheels, those sometimes. and if I do torque it its to 90-100 ft-lbs. (not saying the gun will get it right every time, but if you do enough, you know whats tight and whats too tight)

Yeah, I don’t see a very important reason to torque axle nuts. You’re never going to strip the threads, the nut doesn’t preload any bearing (unlike a tailshaft or something), and the nut actually sees VERY little force aside from axial tension induced by the bolt stretch.

EDIT: i used a torque wrench on every part of my motor though, because I have a tendency to overtorque small fasteners.

You torque the bolts going into the sliders? I’ve never even seen someone torque those.