Need help/huge favor!

Anyone have a friend, family member, or co-worker who you think would be willing to help me out in a HUGE way?

My inspection is due in 11 days (end of this month) and I have a couple CEL’s (one of which I CAN NOT figure out and I’m not willin to spend $150+ on a sensor without knowing it’s the actual problem).

What I need is…someone to borrow me a MAP/BARO/Boost Sensor from a 97-99 Nissan Maxima for 1 week (so I can clear the code, do the drive cycles, and get my inspection if it takes care of the code).

You will get it back + some money as a thank you.

My feedback amongst NYCMaximas.org/Maxima.org (usernames for both is IlyaK) and EBay (ikolodiychik) is 100%. I am not looking to screw anyone over.

My car runs fine…and the person would get my sensor to use for that week period until I can get inspected. I’ll be driving my car to the meeting location, so you will see that my car operates just fine with the bad sensor. If they develop a CEL while using my sensor, upon swap-back, I will clear the codes for them.

PLEASE HELP ME!!

Here is the sensor I need (easily accessible and I can swap it in minutes - two screws/bolts and one small hose):

http://www.anyyouth.com/other/Engine.jpg

Is that your EGR valve?

You can always go to a local Advanced Auto Parts store and scan your car to find out why the issue is there, what is acting up and then delete the code and get to the local inspection place ASAP.

Driving uninspected is not recommended but you can get away with it for a few days while you fix the issue.

No it is not.

I have a code reader. I’ve cleared the codes like 10 times in the last two weeks trying to battle this thing and track it down (originally thought it was possibly a bad vacuum hose somewhere). And if I do clear it, it’ll fail inspection. The ‘system readiness’ tests are not completed and the inspection machine knows that. It causes an automatic failure.

I know…that’s why I need the forums help. The part in question is $180. I do not want to spend that, only to find out my issue is still there. Worst comes to worst, I’ll borrow my co-workers (he’s out of town for the next 10 days though…which is why I’m posting here).

if you had a obd 0-1 like me, i was gunna say i know a couple lick and sticks.

obd 2 FTL

GL on it!

Yeah…I used to know this one fellar that one of the private dealerships in Albany (friends of mine) used to go to but I guess the guy sold his shop and the new guy don’t do that stuff anymore…

OBD-II definitely FTL.

Someone please help me :(.

wat?

I think i might know someone who would deff. let me barrow it off there maxima. let me make a few phone calls today and ill get back to you tonight

Thanks so much man. You have no idea how helpful that would be.

Lick and sticks = lick the sticker and slap it on without doing testing. Only useful on older cars.

I have a tentative agreement with one of the guys from the NYCMaxima’s forum to get one mailed to me…but if you can get one as well, let me know. I’ll do that as a fallback plan.

Thanks!

well technically ::slight_smile: you peel the backing off. ::slight_smile:

lol GL bro

Oh right. Good point. I usually have it legitimately done so I forgot how it’s done…lol.

But yeah, I have a guy from NYC sending me his to test. But I’d still like a fallback option, so if anyone can arrange it if needed, I’d greatly appreciate it! Thanks for the help guys.

I talked to him and Im pretty sure he’ll let me barrow it so let me know if that plan backfires and ill get ahold of him again…

GL Bro

That’s so much man. I’m really hoping I can fix this issue and find a solution.

My car drives fine, but being a car guy, I feel like it’s not because it has a CEL. Piece of mind I guess.

I will definitely let you know.

You can actually pass NYSI with 2 readiness monitors NOT ran, up until '01 cars I think it is and those need all but 1. So if you could get lucky in keeping that monitor from running while getting all of the rest you could still pass NYSI without the CEL. If of course its only turning on when the monitors are ran and not whenever it feels like it.

Thanks for that information. I’ll keep that in mind.

unfortionatly the map baro sensor helps control a lot of things so it is doubtfull the car will run the monitors without trippin a code if it was evap monitor thats easy to avoid or a catalyst monitor but thats a engine control malfunction not likely gonna clear them but what is the actuall code for it high voltage low voltage high input low input there is a lot of variables that can trip it like a vacuum leak bad hose bad wiring another sensor not workin right like a mass air cause they work in correlation wit each other

i’ve got a CEL. i feel reassured with it on :hug

I’m starting to think it’s my Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF).

I have 3 different ones (I used to have a parts car and I just bought a 3rd sensor for cheap).

When I have my factory original one in…I get a MAF A Circuit Failure CEL. When I put in the parts car one, I get the MAP/Baro. When I put in the one I got from the junkyard last week, I get another MAP code.

I’m getting a use MAP from NYC in the mail tomorrow, I’ll try that and keep playing with.

Damn MAF sensor is like $300…and I guess it’s recommended to have Nissan reprogram the ECU after putting a new MAF in since the new ones are an updated version and that’s another $100.

We’ll see what happens when I install the other MAP sensor. I got 9 days left… :ohnoes

if not you can always just use some mass air flow sensor cleaner if you think thats it i used it on my sisters junk box max and it passed then like a day later the light came on you can always try that