Need someone with a properly running Red Top SR20 to help diagnose

So my car doesn’t seem to want to run after the last track day. I need someone with a redtop SR to give me a hand.

Basically, I just want to swap a couple sensors/parts with known good ones so I can eliminate a few things that could be the problem.

Can provide cold beer/food, and pleasant conversation if needed. I’m going to be in the 404 & stouffville rd. area working on my car tomorrow afternoon/evening.

Help me get my car running again SON!

PM me for details, or call/text if you have my number.

Thanks,
Dan.

Nobody? :\

why dont you start by telling us whats wrong?

Sure, but this could take a while.

It started 2 saturdays ago at shannonville, car started misfiring while I was on the back straight on full track. No blue or white smoke, just black (obviously cause of the unburnt fuel due to misfire)

Limp it to the pits, shut car off, pop hood and take a look around, don’t see anything obvious jumping out at me that could be the problem.

Swapped out coils and plugs with known good ones, still have the problem. I pull the plugs out, they’re all full of carbon, but dry. I can only assume that meant it wasn’t a solid misfire. I knew the injectors were working because I removed the fuel rail with everything still attached, and saw them opening and releasing fuel. I fiddled with a few other small things, didn’t make a difference, so I leave it at the track to be towed home later (nobody had CAA with them apparently).

I go back the saturday after, call CAA (used my grandfathers) to come pick up the car. While I wait, I decide to check a few other things out. I started the car, it was still misfiring
Just for some background on what setup I’m running, SR20 redtop, 850cc injectors, Haltech P1000 Standalone, using internal MAP sensor on haltech. (those seem to be the only things that would matter)

My Haltech once, for some unknown reason, lost it’s programming and was giving me problems a while ago, so I figure maybe something fucked up with it again. I decided to unplug it, and let it sit for a couple mins to see if it would help, then plug it back in.
I go to start it after reconnecting everything, and now it doesn’t start at all. It cranks, but doesn’t start. At this point I figured the computer probably lost its programming completely again, and all I would have to do is re-load my map onto it like I had to once before.

I take another, more meticulous look under the hood, and found the source of the original problem; the vacuum line leading to the Haltech’s MAP sensor had popped off my throttle body. The line was hidden behind a couple others so it wasn’t obvious.

At this point, I figure I can just reprogram my ECU when I get home, and everything will be fine. However, when I tried to do so when I got home, the ECU had indeed lost it’s programming, but it still wouldn’t start after I reloaded the map onto it. It didn’t give me any errors or problems connecting/uploading etc. though.

I figured maybe the timing had somehow skipped a tooth or perhaps my CAS fucked off for whatever reason, I checked the timing, it was perfect, swapped CAS and ignitors with known good ones just to be sure, still didn’t start. Coil pack resistance across the primary’s are within spec, plugs are still good, injectors are opening, and there is in fact some spark, even though it doesn’t seem all that strong.

Ideas? I’m leaning towards ECU since after I touched it everything fucked up…

hmmm I have haltech P1000 as well, I’ve never had it lose its program. Have you ever sourced what that problem is or asked haltech why that happenes? I’ve had the battery unpluged from the car several times and its always held the program.

I wound start with that. Check your voltage at the ECU. I had an issue with the ECU relay dicking off when I still had the stock ECU. Either way the car ran on the back up ECU power was limping at 9volts. The car ran like shit and would stutter over 5g. It took me a long time to diagnose that problem since I didn’t realize there was back up power supply to the ECU. Check that ECU relay make sure you have 12+ volts heading to the ecu. It is more than likely an ECU issue. Plug your stock one back in and see if the car starts. It should start even with out a maf or o2 signal.