**Let me clearify one thing, I am not asking where can I buy a car, just for model/yr suggestions.
Well I just purchased a new acreage south of Calgary and am looking for a commuter car to beat the shit out of back and forth to the City every day to work.
My criteria is as follows, ranked in the order of importance. Keep in mind if it is a Nissan that would be a big plus (trying to develop some loyalty to the brand and already own 2 other chevy’s!..gotta even the odds!)
1)Under $1000 (rusty POS expected)
2)Relatively Easy to work on
3)Cheap and plentiful parts (new or used)
4)Good cruising car (no 4 speeds that only do 90KM at 4,000 RPM!) and slightly heavier than a Sprint so 110KM doesn’t feel like 200MPH
5)Gas Mileage, I already have a gas pig and don’t need another!
6)Some degree of Coolness, no LADA’s or Saab’s (No offense to the Swedes and Russians I am sure they are great cars…lol)
My first thought is a Civic , I just wasn’t sure what model yr to look for. I have my eye on a beatup Z31 that has been lacking any TLC for a while now. I am told runs and drives great but that is TBD first hand. For those with Z31’s what are parts like to find and $$ like?
I just bought an 87 200SX turbo for the winter. It will be decent on gas and there are lots at the wreckers in case anything goes wrong. Look in the bargain finder they are CHEAP. You wont get a decent rurbo model for under 1000 I dont think though. Maybe an older D21 pickup with a KA24 or Z24 engine. I had one of them a few winters back and it was good in the winter. Check out older Subarus, I had one all last winter and it was a rusty pile of shit but it got my through the winter. The heat was awesome and the little 1.6L boxer was very efficient. But when it came to coolness that was definately out of the question.
You also might want to consider the Suzuki Swift GTi. 100 HP from 1.3 liters NA, and a gas miser, too! Those Suzuki engines run forever, but the rest of the car falls apart quick. And they are a little cooler than a Justy
Lots of used parts from its close relatives the Pontiac Firefly, Geo Metro, Chevy Sprint. I know you don’t like the Sprint at high speeds, but the GTi has a better suspension, bigger tires, and it should be a bit heavier due to the larger DOHC engine.
**Let me clearify one thing, I am not asking where can I buy a car, just for model/yr suggestions.
Well I just purchased a new acreage south of Calgary and am looking for a commuter car to beat the shit out of back and forth to the City every day to work.
My criteria is as follows, ranked in the order of importance. Keep in mind if it is a Nissan that would be a big plus (trying to develop some loyalty to the brand and already own 2 other chevy’s!..gotta even the odds!)
1)Under $1000 (rusty POS expected)
2)Relatively Easy to work on
3)Cheap and plentiful parts (new or used)
4)Good cruising car (no 4 speeds that only do 90KM at 4,000 RPM!) and slightly heavier than a Sprint so 110KM doesn’t feel like 200MPH
5)Gas Mileage, I already have a gas pig and don’t need another!
6)Some degree of Coolness, no LADA’s or Saab’s (No offense to the Swedes and Russians I am sure they are great cars…lol)
My first thought is a Civic , I just wasn’t sure what model yr to look for. I have my eye on a beatup Z31 that has been lacking any TLC for a while now. I am told runs and drives great but that is TBD first hand. For those with Z31’s what are parts like to find and $$ like?
I just bought an 87 200SX turbo for the winter. It will be decent on gas and there are lots at the wreckers in case anything goes wrong. Look in the bargain finder they are CHEAP. You wont get a decent rurbo model for under 1000 I dont think though. Maybe an older D21 pickup with a KA24 or Z24 engine. I had one of them a few winters back and it was good in the winter. Check out older Subarus, I had one all last winter and it was a rusty pile of shit but it got my through the winter. The heat was awesome and the little 1.6L boxer was very efficient. But when it came to coolness that was definately out of the question.
You also might want to consider the Suzuki Swift GTi. 100 HP from 1.3 liters NA, and a gas miser, too! Those Suzuki engines run forever, but the rest of the car falls apart quick. And they are a little cooler than a Justy
Lots of used parts from its close relatives the Pontiac Firefly, Geo Metro, Chevy Sprint. I know you don’t like the Sprint at high speeds, but the GTi has a better suspension, bigger tires, and it should be a bit heavier due to the larger DOHC engine.
Found a super ugly 1987 Subaru GL 4door sedan, rust in color with blue paint spots here and there…lol I’d post pics but I have nowhere to host them since I am living out in the country again and back on dialup. :?
Runs awesome and drives pretty good for $500. Had to slap a new set of ‘kickass’ Motomaster 13’s on her and a couple bucks in air freshner but she’s a runner.
Wobbles somewhat at 130kmph and has a bit of a knock, or bang or something falling off on the passenger side when you gear down but if it lasts even 3 months I got my monies worth…lol
I did find a nice little 200sx Turbo down in Calgary, needed a new exhuast manifold or gasket not sure, not bad shape for $1250obo. I never drove it but the guy said it was a great little reliable ride. I just didn’t want to have to rip it apart right away.
I took the dent puller and rubber hammer to it last night and painted a couple of the rims, some spray on rock guard should cover up much of the rust around the wheel wells and hide it nicely. I also got rid of the Duct tape on the windsheild ( I am guessing it leaks slightly!) , it will be ‘pimpin’ in no time… :lol:
Dan, this thread cracks me up. I guess I have to assume you daily drive your Z the rest of the year, otherwise your level of standards for this other car perplexes me.
The first year I got my Z (98) as I approached the first winter I desperately sought a suitable DD beater, and ended up spending ~$4k-5k for a 91 VW Golf. I “settled” for that. After keeping it through 2.5 winters and HATING it, I finally got rid of it and financed a new '01 Sentra SE as my new daily driver (Jan '01). I couldn’t stand driving a ~$5k piece of shit. I can’t imagine what living with a $500 POS would be like. LOL
I guess the difference is I don’t DD my Z anymore. The Sentra is a good reliable and economical car for most of my commuting when I’m not cruising in the Z.
I was using my Z as a daily driver to and from work but then I was only 10mins from work and had secure underground parking to leave it in so I drove it to work everyday.
The only reason I didn’t go with something better is because I already have 2 other vehicles a Z71 Pickup and a 99 Cavalier (wife bought it not me). Now that I am 100km from work (one way) the truck would not be viable to drive due to gas and well the Chevy Cavalier would just get run into the ground driving it 1000km’s a week, its a J-Body man… cheap like a tin garbage can!
I wanted something disposable, drive it til its dead and throw it away is my new motto! I just can’t justify spending another few thousand on a car that is giong to get beat into the ground with mileage everyday like that.
I do know what you mean, driving a POS like that is a tough one, Thats why I decided to spend a little time and clean it up a bit. After rolling through downtown yesterday during lunch hour and imagining people thinking what a pyle of shit I went home and got the hammer out.
both my diff and spare diff are in the shop right now getting inspected, may be swapping some parts between them.
If everything goes according to plan, I’ll get my parts this week and the diff(s) will be ready by friday and I can install everything and be back on the road this weekend. The biggest b#tch of the job is still ahead… removing the old bushings and installing the new ones. Could get messy…
I just heard yesterday about increased BullShit at the border with customs causing a growing bottleneck of shipments. Something about increased security or scrutiny over shipments(maybe I should have spelled that “SCREWTINY”…lol
both my diff and spare diff are in the shop right now getting inspected, may be swapping some parts between them.
If everything goes according to plan, I’ll get my parts this week and the diff(s) will be ready by friday and I can install everything and be back on the road this weekend. The biggest b#tch of the job is still ahead… removing the old bushings and installing the new ones. Could get messy…[/quote]
How long did it take you to drop the entire subframe? Are there any tips to make it easier and faster?
It took a buddy and I about 5-1/2 to 6 hours: which included setting the car up on jackstands (all 4 corners), soaking all the bolts and nuts with Liquid Wrench and letting them sit for a bit, as well as disassembling the diff and axle assemblies from the subframe after it was off the car.
As far as tips, I don’t know how much is similar between the S13 and Z32 but I had to:
remove my exhaust system (which is dual) all the way up to the pre-cat flanges
remove exhaust heat shield
remove rear sway bar
de-couple driveshaft (which is a 2-piece on the Z32)
disconnect park-brake lines
unbolt the rear brake calipers from the hub
unbolt the HICAS actuator
de-couple the hicas tie-rods from the rear control arms
unbolt lower shock mounts
unbolt subframe bushing mounts
lower entire subframe assembly on floorjack (you have to have the car on stands high enough so that you can clear the subframe out from under the car)
disconnect ABS sensor harness (before you lower subframe too far)
Once the subframe was off the car
de-couple the diff from the half shafts
unbolt diff from subframe
unbolt all the upper and lower rear control arms from the subframe
etc.
Can’t remember if that’s all the steps I followed or not.
All that above was merely PHASE I
PHASE II will consist of removing all the old bushings that I want to replace and pressing in the new bushings (which I’m still awaiting delivery).
PHASE III is reassembling everything and reinstalling everything back on the car.
PHASE IV would be a successful test drive, and a wheel alignment (after the car has had time to settle on its new bushings).
Not sure if Phase 4 will be completed before spring. But I would like to at least have up to Phase 3 completed before I store the car for winter.
I think most of the steps apply to the S13 except for the hicas part, I think i will be taking the subframe off during the winter so i can clean everything up and replace all the suspension bushings also. What kind of bushing are you getting to replace the subframe bushings???
But I would like to at least have up to Phase 3 completed before I store the car for winter.