adam need is own wikipedia page. man is a wealth of knowledge. except when it comes to call of duty. haha
Is that dog crate where you sleep when you mess up the camera?lol
Adam doesnt sleep. Time jumps a head every day a few hours to try to keep up with him!
so adam is the chuck norris of shift?
Comments are all much appreciated guys. Means alot.
Mike, for this type of pipe welding in a nutshell:
-1/16" lanthanated tungsten
-2.7x taper, .015" truncate, diamond wheel ground, 600 grit.
-50 amps, back purged
-Gas lense, .625" opening, pre and post purge
-Run bead as long as I can stay steady(<- loosing my touch with age these days though).
321/625/Ti tubing I will step up to a 1" GL, putting a trailing shield on for pipe over 2.5" diam, or if it’s small enough put in one of my weld chambers.
ST4TUS…I am designing and fabricating the turbo manifold. Not sure what turbo is going on it yet.
Wayne… :thumbup
thanks on the info. that cups about a #8 or so isnt it? I will have to look it up.
whats your purge setup like? you are doing localized purging inside right? I have some SS turbo parts up and coming and I want to get a legit purge setup going so I am looking for ideas.
.625 = 5/8 = #10. Sometimes I modify cups to make something that fits into a tight spot.
purge setup depends on what I’m welding and how big it is. Longer exhaust stuff I use a draw through inflatable purge bag. that reduces the gas waste as you’re not filling the entire exhaust every time you go to weld a new joint. Short stuff I just put stoppers in the ends and purge the whole tube.
ss headers built on jigs with built in purge ports. Ti stuff always goes in the chambers which fill 100% with shielding gas, unless it’s too big then I get creative. Stuff is too expensive to mess up.
I’ll use SFB on things that I can’t purge easy, like large open tanks and boxes or structures, or on repair jobs where you need to lift contaminates away from the backside of the weld(like cast stainless exhuast manifolds and crap like that. But on a turbo manifold you MUST remove the ceramic it leaves behind because it will break off and end up causing turbine damage. It’s nearly impossibly to do on long tube or twisty runner turbo headers so DO NOT use it for such a thing, only short runner/log style cast manifolds where you can see all the weld joint on the backside and can blast it away with media(I use steel shot)
that’s about it, nothing fancy. no real need to get uber fancy with it just as long as you get the atmosphere away form the weld. I know guys and shops that just stuff rags in the tube ends and stick a piece of plastic airbrake tubing in the end and fill it up. Works and get’s the job done just fine.
good info buddy.
What is the inflatable solution all about? part numbers? I wanted to make something like that with a chain pull so you can localize the purge around the weld area but couldn’t figure out a good diy solution to make the stoppers fit the inside of different tube dia’s, without having different dia purge blocks for each case.
don’t waste your time, just buy one. Mine are from WeldWide(http://weldwidesolutions.com/products_inflatable_purge_dams.html). I have a 2" modified to work in 1.5" to 2", and a 4" modified to work in 2.25 to 4".
For short pipes, just use taperd rubber stoppers in the pipe ends. Easy to get at any plumbing store. Drill 1/4" hole in one end, run airbrake tubing to argon tank and reg, ~5cfm or so pending how many joints there are(more joints, more cfm leakage)
1 less excuse for jon not to drive the car…