i second that…think hes just mad cause a srt beat his evo X
Both of you are really mature. Im no expert but you cant deny the neon is a cheap car. If you put enough money into it, it can be good but the average neon on the road is rusted and falling apart. I have nothing against them, I just think you would save money hooking up a different car.
Im not here to bash anyone or talk shit. I wanted to bring up another option to think about. If you think i have no clue what im talking about then point it out and explain it to me. I appreciate what Brian did. He corrected me by stating they have solid platforms. he didnt come out with any stupid remarks. Dont call anyone clueless and dont compare cars in a race when we are talking about something completely different here.
i second this, even tho i didnt do the work and i bought the car with this kit already on it, i loved the car and the kit. my car was a 1997 dodge neon with the kit and an 18g. i wont sit here and argue that the car was a beast but it was quick and i had a lot of fun. i also really dont know much about the 2.4 swap but by reading about it and doing some research it does not seem worth all the problems and work. i vote get the kit have some fun and enjoy the car.
thats because most people who buy neons want a cheap daily and they dont take care of them… if you do they hold up just as long as any other car… plus they can be kinda quick!:eekdance:
malves85 stop telling him why you don’t like neons. This is the technical talk subforum, so if you don’t have technical advice save it for gen auto.
A neon being a cheap car has nothing to do with its ability to rust, or not rust. You’re just repeating quotes that you probably saw on other forums, because they thought it was cool.
Neon’s are cheap cars, that’s why people choose to mod them. Cheap is not bad by any means. When they came out in '95, it was one of the best in its class, they still kick ass in autox, and they have been going 9’s for years now. Stock neons get 40+ mpg, and last a long time, and can be picked up for around a grand. I had 8 grand into my build, and had a pretty serious car.
Do your homework before you spew garbage. Any car that is 14 years old is going to have more rust than new cars, but they are no more rusty than any other car of the same generation. If anything, they rust less compared to their japanese counterparts, due to using thicker body metal.
Edit:
I talked to the OP and I believe I convinced him that it would be in his better interest to pay to fix his leaky valve seals over doing a motor swap. I may even be able to do it this summer as a side job, if he can wait until then.
that sounds a lot more logical!
or
sell it and buy becks car… lol
Definitly tear the engine down too check for wear issues before installing. Have fun with the wiring harness swap. Its got one of the most complex system of vac lines hopfully you can figure out were they all go. The swaps a headache just get a real srt4 and save yourself the time, money and the hassle unless you can find a decent long block for cheap which is highly unlikly.
i got a long block with turbo and intake manifolds for $700 used… but i got lucky i guess
You do not have to tear the mtoor down first to check for wear issues, that will most likely introduce more problems for the novice swapper. I would only tear down a motor if its blown up, or I am building it. I would never recommend tearing down a motor to check to make sure its good! Most junk yards give you a x-day warranty on the motor, so if it doesn’t run, you can take it back.
And the vac lines are really not bad at all. The SRT4 has a lot of vac lines, but the regular n/a 2.4 has no more than any 2.0L neon has.
kinda quick? look at neonglh, his shit was fucking off the wall, i hope mines the same too, i have a hrc stg. 5 kit, and a weight of about 2400 pounds, it better be more than quick it should be fucking scary
Moved to Gen Auto as this has minimal tech in it.
The car does need some work and can’t wait till summer. I figured it would be cheaper to just swap in a 2.4 instead of paying a shop to do all of that work since it involves removing the head. Then I figured I could eventually get a new tranny, turbo and srt internals in the future.
I guess my next question is if there is anyone that wants to make some $$ doing those repairs?
Some used motors have already been torn down by whoevers selling it. Ya never know if they forgot to torque a rod bolt, thats all I’m saying I’ve seen it happen. I finally get this ecu out of limp because the vac lines wern’t in the right places and the crank position sensor being faulty; a week later rod cap backs itself of the rod/crank and the rod shot through the side of the block. You can never be too careful with used engines. This long block was around 3g’s with 40k. The main thing with the vac lines is knowing which goes on what solenoid and where.
What exactly does it need done?
then we should run this summer, it would be interesting. how much hp you estimating? just curious:eekdance:
hahn claims max is 480 crank, im hoping for 350 wheel, with me in it, about 2500 pounds, adjustable suspension, lowered, built trans with lsd etc. but it has to run first! i dropped in a reinforced block this winter (internals) and havnt started it yet cause the fuel system arrived in the mail today! and im not going into the garage till spring, my dad left gas too close to my torpedo heater last year and had a slight explosion, which is sumhow my fault, so no heat =(, but if she runs id love to! if any neon lovers wanna swing by and look at it sumday or help me with it, thatd be great too, i just got this tuning cd from hahn and it seems ancient i uploaded it today on my laptop and its just a bunch of word documents =(
sounds like you got your work cut out for you! we are definetly running this summer cause i feel its gonna be pretty close if your numbers are accurate!
gas + fire = Boom… lol
edit: we are thread jack professionals! lol
Right now it needs new valve seals ASAP.
Before summer I’d like to replace the water pump, timing belt and exhaust. I also got some KYB’s w/lowering springs that aren’t on yet.
I would do the valve seals / timing belt / water pump if you want come spring time. That would include pulling the head and we would want to do a head gasket then. Check out the cost on ebay of a top end rebuild kit, that would be your best bet price wise.