you have serious issues. 
it was kinda just laying around so i decided to fully assembled it and get the last few parts needed for it. And i got a good deal on it so i figured might as well put it to good use. maybe after this winters build i can finally be happy with the build and keep the car for a while
wow,
very nice.
Just laying around huh? That doesn’t surprise me. We gotta meet up this summer!
i envy you.
this may be a dumb question, if so, feel free to bash but…
where do u find your OEM/Stock Parts?
jnztuning has dirt cheap prices, can also go through emery and street tuned motorsports
that and my own stock pile of parts
haha yeah, got it with one of my parts cars and decided to put it to use, was originally going to sell it, but nobody bit, so its going help spool a nice t4 snail
Keeping the crank trigger is cool, what clutch are using? I hope a twin plate to keep the crankwalk gremlins down.
yeah going to see if i can scoop up a PTT twin disk somewhere. idk though, depends on $$$ i think the whole crankwalk thing is overrated.
This could be, I’ve only seen it on engines that weren’t assembled by inteligent people and heavy or really heavy clutches or improperly adjusted really heavy clutches. Just disconnect the clutch switch and don’t ride the clutch. Only use it to shift when really needed like ride out gears longer, skip gears, don’t sit on clutch at red lights. The less amount of time you are pushing the crank over is a less amount of time that the crank is eating the thrust bearing. Higher oil pressure will also insure more oil on the thrust surface. I hope that the squirters were removed for block cleaning and all prep work.
gotta look at the receipts to see if that was done… but im guessing so because there was over $2,000 in machine work alone not including the price of any parts.
also, gary thoughts on an oil cooler. I thought i remember reading on the Link forums that some people have run no oil cooler at all. Since i dont have a air/air set up right now, i would like to remove as much unnecessary stuff as possible with this car to help lean up the engine bay and make it easier to work on, and less possible leaks. So would it work to just remove the lines that run coolant down to the stock 2g oil coolers and loop a hose on the two coolant nipples on the 2g oil cooler?
would the only time for worry be on long trips on the highway at constant rpm’s of 3500-4k??
I know that question is directed at Gary, but that just doesn’t sound like a good idea to me. Yeah people are going without coolers but idk, I’d want the piece of mind to know that its getting some kind of cooling. I can’t imagine the oil lasting too long without a cooler either.
I highly suggest an oil cooler on a turbo car. You know you can run the evo3 filter housing on the 2g for external oil cooler? If you want to run the stock water cooler unit no problem, just use my write up to save you headaches(either way water running to it or not it can loosen up). My oil temps while sitting still easily got to 240degrees before I started moving so expect to see that as a minimum temp with out cooling. So to keep oil from breaking down use a good synthetic oil and change at max of 2k without cooler.
yeah i was figuring that i would do the evo3 filter housing on this car and do a nice air/air set up.
got bored and took some pics today. Did my gauge pod for my center vent last night too, turned out pretty good. Will prolly just be running an oil pressure/boost/wideband/gm 3.3 bar set up so i only need 2 slots and im not a huge fan of a pillar gauge pods.
ABS and power steering removed for more room and a cleaner engine bay and fuse box relocated to the corner where the battery used to be:
pics:
Wait, are you just going to log boost/vac via dsmlink and run a wideband and oil pressure gauge? or log boost/vac via dsmlink, log wideband, and run an oil pressure and boost gauge. I don’t have a problem with either way just wondering. The engine bay should be pretty bare looking, did you decide on a new turbo? I saw you had the current up forsale.
i want to get a PLX wideband, or anything non-aem because i had a bitch of a time trying to log it in dsmlink. even had the revised version/code to log and still couldnt get it to work right. The wideband will go on top of my steering column, TT tucked under the dash, log gm 3.3bar and then just 2 gauges oil/boost
I would recommend the aem or techedge any thing other than the plx, zeitronix, ngk. I have dataloged both plx and aem and both were off, this is because “the problem is that some of these inputs are incompatible with some aftermarket sensors. In particular, the 1G EGR temperature input and the 2G baro input have pull up/pull down resistor configurations that some sensors are not capable of driving properly. The solution to this is to “buffer” the input so that the sensor is not directly driving the ECU’s input.”
The buffer unit is avail and should take care of all those old problems for $19.
http://www.dsmlink.com/ordering-buffer.html
http://wiki.dsmlink.com/default.aspx/DSMLink/ECUInputData.html
i have the techedge 2a0 DIY kit. i built it a few years ago. logs sensors and thermocouples real nice. i would like at some point to check it with a freshly calibrated wideband on a dyno to be sure.
Brian
ill look into the techedge, thanks for the input. I just dont want to screw around with an AEM one again.
I can understand the frustration of the dataloging but I always just watched the gauge during wot as the rest is determined by the narrowband and fuel trim adjustments. Maybe post up and see if anyone is using the new buffer and with what wideband to see what works best. The main problem with the aem is just how fast it updates compared to what the ecu updates and this is only a problem during datalogging. Either way let me know what you end up using and how the datalog is compared to the gauge.