Agreed…but I’d personally get one of those nice double din Kenwood or Pioneed Navi’s that allow you to setup gauges (if you wire it as so) and use that.
Or go baller and build a carputer with full OBD intergration and parameter readouts.
But that’s just me. You probably saved a whole lot more money going this way :lol.
Eventually I will go the CarPC route, but thats quite a bit more expensive. And the AFR, Tru-Boost, and Aquamist cannot go through the CarPC (AFAIK). The OBD parameters also do not include any oil temp, oil pressure, or egt in my car so I would have to do add-on systems to get the gauges I actually wanted.
under normal driving, all you really need to look at (for gauges) are boost, oil pressure, and afr.
i mean if you hardly get on it then you dont need to see all gauges all the time. too much clutter on the dashboard.
what you should have done is two in the gauge cluster (boost and afr)
three in the clock area (oil pressure, temp, and egt)
meth in the left-most vent.
and the other ones under the radio by the cig lighter outlet
I didn’t want them all over the place and was trying to keep everything in one easy place. Although I don’t track it frequently, I still like to keep an eye on what I can. The aquamist is important for the fact that if my pump fails or otherwise has any issues I will notice that there is no flow and immediately let off. So that one def. needs to stay visible at all times (no audible warning either). Then I agree with you on the boost, oil pressure (I’ll know if the super high quality subaru oil pickup starts to go), and afr. However I was also informed when I bought it that oil temperature is also a good one to have because subaru engine failures are most often caused by the oil heating up too high and becoming thin. Eventually I would like to go with either the PLX or the one posted above but with warnings (audible or visual) and run LED’s off the module for the warning. Then I could keep most everything hidden away and just have the visual warnings if a problem occurs.
But since I don’t have the money to do a full setup like that atm, this works for now.
oil temp is for knowing when to safely get on it. (i wait until its over 180ºF)
oil pressure for if/when the pickup cracks.(if it doesnt hold above 14psi at idle, 43psi at 5,000rpm. these specs are at 176ºF)
delete the meth kit entirely. get a retune and move on.
Thanks for the info. The meth is in and I have no problem with it being there, so I’ll probably leave it for now. But thanks for that link! Now I know exactly what I need to watch for.