^If you don’t need a bigger car this is how I would go.
Loaded, better handling and lighter than a Legacy, I’m pretty sure it’s tune more aggressively too. Felt like it on the test drives :burnout: and the smaller car gets worse gas mileage so :shrug:
I think there’s an assumption in there that’s causing your confusion…
does he owe more than $20k on it?
He has stated that on a trade-in, he would have ~$4k equity to put a DP on the new ride.
So financing 16k over 5 years is probably a WAY lower payment than $450/month
Says he should be 4K up on trade in value.
it’s really only 2k after taxes and other fees unless that’s pre-factored.
What do you still owe on the MS6? I can’t fathom how you think taking on more debt (especially when you want to buy a house) is a good idea.
The house payment is equal to what my rental is now, so don’t worry about that. I just want to open up some more cash and my car is getting older.
I owe around $7k on the MS6. I am expecting $11k trade in (kbb.com)
Using the Edmunds car calculator with 3.9% APR (Pentagon FCU rate) which I am pre-approved for (excellent credit)
I currently pay $440/mo. for the MS6. I pay $150/mo. for insurance (even with defensive driver, good driver and VIN etching discounts with no tickets for over 4 years)
I have to put 93 octane in my car (adds up) and use full synthetic for oil changes ($60/ea.)
My math is good as even if I save only $40/mo. on the new car, it’ll probably let me put in 87 octane and will cost less to maintain. If the insurance is also cheaper, I’ll be on top by hopefully $100/mo. ($1,200/yr!)
I’d love $1,200/yr. just to drive a lesser car. It can’t SUCK, but it doesn’t have to be Look at me Lotus Exige with stickers either… lol
any other questions you’d like me to answer? want my social security number as well? geez. 
taking on more debt? I’ll be paying less out of pocket each month AND the new car will have a warranty.
I just had to replace the front and rear brakes on the MS6 and it cost me almost $800 in parts. Having a rare car where the brakes have to be made to order sucks. At 55k miles, I just pray every day that nothing else brakes before I trade it in. There is nothing worse than paying $440/mo. and then having to pay extra for additional repairs.
I don’t care about a continual car payment. I was going to lease but I drive more than 12,000 miles a year. So, I buy new and trade in when I have some equity in the car vs. trade in value.
not really sure what you are looking for in a car but the 2010 mustang starts just over 21K. It says it is 313 a month in their add. too bad you can’t get the 3.7L in it just yet because they are 305hp and the pricing is the same.
dude, you could have done all new upgraded rotors, hawk pads, and SS brake lines for less than 800 shopping on the mazdaspeed forums
not that it really makes a difference on your decision, just sayin.
jebus $440 a month for a mazda
My comment made as much sense as you looking for a new car for $20K when you owe $16k on your 6
Where did you get $16k from? I owe around $7k. Man you’re useless…
When I trade the car in, I will have $4,000 cash to use (Owe $7k, trade in at $11k)
… I think this forum may be bad at math. I think I’ve explained it three times already. I feel bad for the “I need financial advice” posts that I see every so often. I can only imagine what kind of advice gets put out in those posts.
The only thing that should matter to anyone is “A car under $20k…”
I did get upgraded rotors and pads. OEM parts were even more expensive. The $800 also included installation :tup:
Buy a Yaris
Buy a Yaris
It would be more debt… 7K<18K. Although your payments will be lower, you will be paying for longer, but I guess you already understand that. Do what you want, but your first post made it sound like you were “saving” money in the long run.
And yes, please send your social security number and bank number… you have won the Cheektowaga lottery and must send $4000 to me to have it released
Sweet!!! I’ve never won anything like that! I don’t even remember buying a ticket…
SS# 122-28-3830
Bank account through HSBC - Routing # 02200021 Account # - 728771944
When will I know?!
As for the “YARIS” suggestions… what kind of car people are you to even make that suggestion? LOL
http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81032
or
Buy a Yaris
Buy a pre-owned certified something. They usually have better warrenties than the new cars and you obviously save on depreciation.
Looks to me like your looking for something with a low payment and long warrenty.
you forgot an option… vagina! :roflpicard: