Just wanted to see what you guys thought of a set-up i was looking at getting, if you’ve ever bought from them or saw anyones car with the parts let me know what you think.
Oh and BTW before I get ripped on, I’m not looking to go crazy on power 200 is the most I’d care to get, it is just a daily driver after all.
i have heard good things about the bahnbrenner, i am not sure about the CAM if that would be the right one for you. I have not done research on 2.0’s in a long time. Don’t waste your money on the header. I always liked the Weitec 40/40 suspension. its a few bucks cheaper then the suspension you were looking at. When you do your suspensions make sure you get new bushings and VR6 strut mounts. The stock ones in the 2.0 will squeek like crazy with an aftermarket suspension.
get ahold of peter tong on vortex. he was making kits and selling them not for profit but for fun. bahn brenner was supplying his chargers, but stopped once he was making stuff more reliable and w/ more horsepower. it was him who came up w/ the throttle body pre charger to get rid of the whine. saves you from buying bb’s silencer kit.
another option, but less bling power but saves on the wallet, is to run the g60 setup. i know on one fo the rabbits we had 195whp at 15psi on an old g60motor running sns’s chip. ran intot he 13’s. same setup, ust w/ a small t3 from a saab did 50 more hp and liek 35 more tq at same psi rating.
Thanks for the advice, and I’ll try and get a hold of that guy on the tex.
So don’t bother with headers? I figured I have the cat back shouldn’t I free up the rest of it or won’t it matter with what I’m trying to get out of it?
I heard a while ago that g60’s like to um…self-destruct to say the least, untrue rumors?
fun daily driver im not sure what this is goin on but my friend has a mk2 with a 12v vr6 and all motor it went 14.3 w/ out traction
on 20psi it went 11.79@119
I thought about that too, but I couldn’t afford the labor I’d have to pay on top of the engine ECU ect…I don’t have the stuff needed for a whole engine swap.
grab a header for sure. either a mk4 equal length upper and use an oem down pipe or go w/ an aftermarket header. the mk4 exhaust manifold is pretty nice equal length, not like the mk3.
the g60’s blow up because they cant be rev’d. i think 6k is the max they should be revd. forget off hand exact rpm, but it is deffintiely below vw’s redline. so by spinning it to redline, you wear out the charger then boom.
If I could find a good car to get a VR6 and everything i’d need out of, somewhere to do the swap and another pair of hands to help me out i’d deffinetly do it. But I don’t know anywhere around here to do it and no one seems to be that generous in the area. I’ll save up an extra bit of money if someone up there wants to help me when I’m in town, pay you for your time? Let me know if you’re interested, it’d be in May.
depends on how you lean on the 2.0. forced induction wise, the shortblock is solid as they come. over 500whp has been put to an oem block. the head, although better than old 8v heads, still lack. hence why swapping to the 16v head is the ticket. yet a stock counterflow 8v head is good to 350whp range before you need to get in and start doing port work. numerous cars have been powered by junkyard 2.0’s w/ nothing done to them–just turbo and efi system slapped to them and let looose. 2 of my friends were in the low 11’s high 10’s w/ the engines. not bad for a $125 used engine w/ a days worth of dremeling the ports.
granted, the vr6 bottom end is just as beefy. but used engines still bring 600 range.
either way, you will be fucked because 200 whp in a 4 banger vw will blow out stock trannys. so you will need to attend to the differential. Once the diff is done, you should be solid for your goals. vr6 has the advantage using an 02a cable shft, but those are weak too w/ the shafts flexing on high hp cars. hence why they make a 5th gear delete w/ a lock collar for drag racing use. even thenm, i hear of alot fo 3rd and 4th gears going down.
clutch wise on a 2.0–the biggest thing is the pressure plate. beef up the straps. instead of stock 1 strap, modify it to have 3 straps. you can run sachs clutch disk, and it will last provided your not riding it.
in all, biggest pita is engine management.obd1 cars–be it vr6 or 2.0, you can modify the ecu to compensate for boost. obd2 is where you get f’d. I have still not seen a single company’s chip that works as promised w/ any 4 banger vw setup. they all have their faults. glad i neevr personally went through the chip nightmare.
BBM kit is ok. Software leaves a lot to be desired. Expensive for what you get. The car I helped do wouldn’t idle worth a shit 'cause it was so rich. Kid ended up going with standalone because he was sick of dealing with fouled plugs and BBM didn’t want to hear about it.
VR6’s are nice, but it all depends what you want/ like. To be honest if you want a VR I would just sell your car and buy a GLX. It isn’t woth the trouble to do the swap, especially if you need to pay someone to do it. Look for a car that has been well maintained, otherwise you’ll be looking at $ to catch up on all the maintainance (timing chains especially). It’s worth it to shell out the money for a nice car up front than to go through the hassle and $ to fix up an abused example.
I was told you can’t swap to a 16v head on my block…you seem like you know a lot more then anyone I would have asked before would have though. If you could to me it would seem like you could get a bit more power with just switching the head to a high compression 16v and getting a nice cam on it, then not even going forced induction for someone like me…didn’t they used different blocks? I’m OBD2 so maybe that’s why it won’t switch over?
You can put a 16V head on an ABA block, but you need 16V pistons. rebush the ABA rods, and a few other bits and pieces (like a fuel rail, etc) to bolt it together. Once the engine is assembled, you need to figure out the engine management. Can’t just use the stock computer if you want decent performance. Not worth the money and effort if you want to stay NA.