I have no real spot to work on it, my parents are in the middle of a move and the lease ended on my apartment by RPI, so working space is really the issue. Its just not reasonable at this point to keep the thing.
this thing sucks
nick , ill make a deal with ya . if ya can swing it ill let ya store the thing and work on it at my garage . but ya can only be there when i am .
If I can swing a motor cheap enough, I may want to do this, the only thing stopping me is I’m strapped for cash. PM me how much you would want to store it and such, I think that could be a reasonable option.
:rofl I think I upset your friend on facebook.
Its fineeeeeee…its completely true anyway :rofl
After calling Tom (old owner), I have confirmed it is not a 6 bolt. He sent me a picture of the trans off the motor, 6 bolts on the flywheel, not 7. Odd that he lied, but I’m not too surprised and am lead to believe this is the car’s original 6 bolt motor. Now onto why my FS thread is closed:
The first issue was the car stalled immediately after being boosted. It then periodically stalled after being driven home. There was a vacuum line on the blow off valve that was loose and fell off :headbang. After fixing this, the car drove beautifully.
The issue that showed itself after that was a fast overheating issue. I had an air pocket in the coolant system, and the coolant was low. The car may burn coolant or be leaking it from a random spot, but filling the car with coolant again brought it back to normal operating temps. Either way, its something to keep an eye on.
Finally, after getting the car running and at normal temps, a damn brake line broke :lol I got the car with a leaking line and didn’t know it was this bad, but the car is a trip to NAPA away from being set to roll out again.
Bottom line, I’m keeping the car. Even if it walks at this point, I’m probably going to keep it around. Thats all for now.
So…it didn’t crankwalk?
lolz u thought it crank walked when it had a vacume leak and low coolant…
It was giving some of the signs of having walked, none of which appear anymore. So I think I’m okay for now.
It is probably in the begining stages of potential headgasket issues. Atleast these are the warning signs on the several DSMs I’ve had the displeasure of working on.
Nick do you have access to a compression tester?
Headgasket issues seems like the agreement across DSM forums. I don’t have access to one but I’m guessing I should test the compression?
I got my gst I had cheap kid told me it crankwalked and motor was shot. Took head off. Signs of bad headgasket. Looked block over replaced.head gasket fixed leak. Replaced coil and battery to fix starting issues. Cars.was fine. Sounds similar to what you r experienceing.
Yes, sounds 100% like whats happening to me. Is there a certain aftermarket head gasket that’s recommended or is OEM fine?
you should sell the car. seem like you are in over your head if you cant tell the difference from a vacuum leak putting the car in to limp mode from a spun bearing.
Honestly, you are probably right. The overheating threw me a curveball. But I won’t sell it. Other than doing the water pump and a big 80k maintenance overhaul, my next big purchase is going to be a daily for if this car gives out. I love the car, I just didn’t expect problems this early in owning it. But I should have forseen that too. No use crying over spilled milk at this point though.
lot’s of fail in this thread. keep it and rebuild it
Oem. If there’s one thing mitsubishi ever did right was make good gaskets. If your taking the head off do the timing belt water pump idler and tensioner bs. The gates aftermarket timing belts are.really.good.
^this and get yourself a set of ARP head studs. When it comes to headgaskets either OEM or cometics, nothing else. just my .02
now you should buy a 6 bolt motor and build it up for when this engine fails.