NYS Inspection

No codes are allowed at all . Cars 200 and older are allowed 2monitors unfunded to pass . 2001 and newer need all but 1to pass

P0102 was on when I had my car inspected, as a matter of fact, it still is. :lol

/\ NYS FTL <- new plate for me :rofl

My 04 jetta runs like a champ, has been getting beat on for 6 months now, every day, 400 miles a week. Never left em stranded, never hesitated, doesnt smoke, leak or do anything strange… yet it has a evap leak, SAI doesnt turn on so I cant pass without putting work into it (which I dont have time for).

Yet, i see rusted out 1993 honda civics, beat ass trucks and what not pumping oil out the tail pipe, smell like unburnt gas, driving NYS inspected right along side of me every day. What a facepalm.

I’ve got one for a bad secondary O2 sensor that keeps tripping my cel. When I ws due for inspection I just reset the code waited til the second the monitors were ready and got it inspected in the window of time before it tripped again. If you can’t tell if your monitors are set without a scanner I’d suggest investing in a cheap one.

See, there’s one of the 5%. :lol

Yup I’m lucky as my car let’s me know if the monitors are set without a tool plus its an every now and again light so I’m usually good for a week or so when I reset it.

O4 will have a large 10+ pin harness. It will not have the 4 pin harness only for the torque converter clutch like the older TV trans do. The northstar caddys use the 4T80E which I believe was only used with the N*. If the wiring is bad it is probably inside the trans. The insulation on the wires can get brittle and crack causing shorts.

If you drive the 30-50 miles it takes the car to complete most of the on board tests in 3rd gear. You will hate the fuel mileage but just maybe if the computer does not command TTC lock up that it wont detect a problem…

I’m in there as well. Had an EGR sticking problem. Reset it, drove it, inspected it, CEL came on the next day. :lol

it works depending on what the code is and the vehicle…i have done it to 3 vehicles in the last year and a half…for instance my mazda with throw a lean code with my intake but it only happens when you have reset ecu and put almost exactly 300 miles on the car…it only takes 50 miles to clear 7 monitors for inspection so theres a 200 mile window to inspect it

Your partially right, but also partially wrong. Certain readiness tests are run at start up and others require a certain amount of time/miles to run them. SAI for instance is run on a cold start only, where as EVAP and catalyst require cold start and about 10 miles of driving. The 50 mile thing is generally what shops tell customers so they drive the cars long enough to set the monitors. Also the I/M monitors run differently for each manufacturer so what works to squeak a GM by might not work on other makes and vice versa.

That is absolutely uncorrect. I know for a fact because I have done this.

Uncorrect is the incorrect way of saying what you’re trying to say.

I can see what you are saying.

Same here.

It all depends for sure.

If you read the requirements for each test to pass, you’d assume it’d take years to hit those obscure qualifiers. Catalyst definitely takes more than 10 miles for readiness BTW.

Oh stop , were all wrong

True story, bro.

[quote=jdaniels;892904]If you read the requirements for each test to pass, you’d assume it’d take years to hit those obscure qualifiers. Catalyst definitely takes more than 10 miles for readiness BTW.[/quote

I would put money on being able to run a catalyst test on a 10 mile roadtest. It can’t be the first time you drive the car after reseting DTCs. You need to go out drive the vehicle around run and run everything, but the cat and EVAP monitor then park it let it cool down to ambient temp then go drive it again. It’s really not hard. However if there are issues like a partially plugged cat or some emissions problem your trying to not fix that process may or may not work(really the moral of the story is fix your damn car then drive it for a couple days).

Catalyst will only run after both o2 heater and function have ran and past . Normally its the last to go along wit evap

My dad said the same thing, we have a neighbor with a 2001 jeep that has no exhaust system and rusted to shit and a huge crack across the windshield, it has been that way since I moved here 2+ years ago. He still some how passes inspection with it.

This is the first time I’ve lived in a state with inspection, it sucks.

Yeah I read a few guys online just reset the codes and popped in 3rd gear for a week and they passed inspection no problem. Car drives fine and he just finished paying it off, doesn’t really want to take the plunge into buying another right now, he wants to be enjoy not having a car payment for once in his life.

That jeep should never pass safety inspection. If it has at least a cat and working o2’s reading it… it wont piss off the ecu and fail it that way. But safety inspection & visual it shouldn’t pass.