ok…i think i’m going to take some of your advice…ive been doing some research on changing my 4g civic from obd0 to obd1. i wanted to get some confirmation on what i need to get for the swap. since i want to get the ecu tuned for street-dd, i was told to go with a socketed p28. i understand the p28 is made to run with vtec, so will the proper chip eliminate the vtec map and adapt it to my non-vtec zc? also i understand i need an obd1 distrubutor (td03?). is that all i will need besides the adaptor harness to change my pg7 harness to the p28? the cam angle sensor i assume will just need to be depinned and adapted to the new distributor cuz right now its just tapped into my harness. the car has a dohc zc with 9:1 srp pistons, eagle H rods, 440 dsm injectors, stock map sensor, and t3/t4 turbo…sooo…is there a map (chip) that someone has made for this setup that i can buy, or will i need to actually do live tuning to get my own tune? i plan to keep the boost around 9psi for daily use, and just run off the wastegate spring (keep the boost controller turned off). i would think i have a pretty simple setup with mild numbers, so it shouldn’t be that hard to find a baseline map that would be ok for daily use.
with that said…does anyone have these parts that i could buy? a virgin p28 would be ok cuz i can socket it myself. i’m an electrical engineer so de-soldering and re-soldering isn’t that difficult to me. i’m sure there are pinouts for the distributor on this forum somewhere too, so wiring shouldn’t be too terribly difficult (i just haven’t looked yet).
thanks in advance guys, im a newbee on here and you’ve already helped me out a bunch!
you should just get someone to tune it for you. there are too many variations with injector size, amount of boost, etc too use someone elses tune, plus you won’t get the maximum amount of power. you could run too rich and ruin your rings, or too lean and melt the pistons. it’s always smarter to just get it done right especially since you’ve spent money on forged internals. take it to hybrid or jeff evans
And why would a p28 be best for your engine if you’re non vtec? A P06 is the identacle board with the vtec areas just not populated and usually cheaper. Either way yes you use software to disable vtec in the bin.
ok…my car was originally dpfi. i did the full harness conversion in the car and on the motor. i know when i changed from my original d15 to the zc, the distributor wiring was a nightmare. i saved a picture and writeup i had when i originally did the pinout so i should be ok to rewire for obd1. might take a few drawings on the back of a box or something to match it, but i should be able to figure that out.
i did see a few things about the p06, but wasn’t sure of the difference b/t the p28 and p06. i agree, the p06 is usually cheaper, and if they’re the same minus the vtec then its probably a better idea. do you guys use chrome or something to tune? i assume all i need to get is a p06 (or p28) with a socketed eprom and then let the dyno shop do the writing and burning of the chip to change things when needed? plus the shops probably have a decent baseline to start with so they only have to make minor changes to adapt it to the specific car.
again, does anyone have the parts they would like to sell to do the swap?
I wouldn’t run your car on any kind of generic/base map any longer than you absolutely have to, and I certainly wouldn’t be trying to spool up - I would roll putt-putt style at like 45 to get to the shop. Anyone who says they have a map for your car is lying or retarded - the only map that’s honestly appropriate for your car is a custom one, and you do NOT need to pay for a P28 when you have a non-VTEC head. With that said…
Call JTech @ 724-284-8324. There’s a chance he has an ECU for you already, and will dyno tune @ OST (which is totally worth it).
Truth. “Best fit” tunes are garbage. If you build up a motor have the thing tuned CORRECTLY (not just A/F like some people around here think), you’d be suprised how quickly your motor can become a paperweight if you choose to run it for any length of time with a basemap / someone else’s tune
Yea, my thoughts exactly on the correct tune…i put too much money and time into building the engine to burn a hole thru the pistons. it does run like a pile of crap right now cuz the tune is wrong. i just got everything legal on the car (reg + ins), so its time to get things done up the right way. what do they charge for time at jtech for tuning and how long does it normally take? what might be some pre planning things i should do before i go. if i’m going to do the obd1 swap (w/p06 ecu), do they just replace/reburn the chips or should i be prepared with a hondata system or something?
Just call Jay @ jtech, he can discuss what you want to do and give you a price for the work. He can tell you what you do/don’t need and get parts in if you need it. I know he’s done a lot of conversions and usually tunes with Crome but I’m sure he will do whatever you want if you have hondata, etc.
ok thanks guys…jay i’ll send you a pm when i’m ready to get this done, its down at the shop now getting inspected and emissions…i’ll need a bit of time to get it swapped over to obd1 with dizzy, o2, wiring conversion and i have a p06 here that i have to socket yet. then i gotta get it running half way decent enough to get it to you without blowing it up. thanks for the input