Actually I just thought of something… When we first got the car I unhooked the ECU to get the its box out and clean out the leaves and muck that were under it. I never actually had the TB re-adapted with VAG, it seemed to figure itself out after a week or so of moving it around at the shop (wasnt driving it daily at the time). Maybee that has been my problem all along… if the TB adaption can effect the boost, d’oh.
Dan
We all can’t be as cool as you. We all try, but fail miserably. Seriously though, is there a way to get the code if it was a replacement radio and it wasn’t written on the new one before it was put in?
I have a code reader if you need codes read. (badnewsmini) has VagCom and he will look at your car free if he has some free time. He used to do it for me, and has for many others. If I had to put money on what is wrong I would bet it’s the N75.
I HAVE A NIB N75 VALVE $20 AND ITS YOURS
My car has gone into limp mode 3 times in the past 4 months… not too often, possibly a vacuum leak?
not if its between the turbo and the throttlebody…
if its between the tb and the head, it will affect the intake manifold vacuum.
Brian
n75. I may have an extra laying around as well.
Also look around your engine bay for these check valves. If they look like mine did in the following picture, replace them. (apparently a common problem) They have a slight chance of being your culprit as well. ecstuning has them for a few $$ each
Well, my idle vac is 22inhg anyway.
Dan
Ok, so I pulled the DV. It seems like there must be a small hole in the diaphragm. I cant pull any vacuum on the nipple with the hand vac, and if I plug the nipple and press in the piston fast, the pressure quickly bleeds out (can actually see the diaphragm “deflate” thru the side port). I would think it should be able to hold vac or pressure for more than a couple seconds.
So I guess I at least need a DV.
Otherwise so far no cracked hoses or check valves, although the one does look like its starting to deteriorate like the one that burnt toast posted. Ill get one to replace that so it doesnt finally split apart.
Correct me if Im wrong about the DV.
EDIT: I also tried blocking off the side port and using the hand vac, I can pull some vac for a second and then when the piston starts to move… nothing. If I plug both large ports I can pull vacuum fine. So DV = fuked
Dan
I also pressure tested both IC hoses, the IC, the steel crossover tube thing, they hold 15psi no problem.
Going to the yard tomorrow to pick up an ABA alternator and mount for the wifeys 16V project, maybee Ill see if there is a 1.8T there to grab a DV and N75 off of just to try ( I can prob just take them).
Next up, vagcom…
PM sent. I definitely want this.
Dan
FWIW, I keep Hyperboost valves in stock.
Well, new DV and a known working good N75 havent fixed anything. I checked the WG actuator today and it seems to start to open around 4psi and is fully open between 8 and 9.
I really wonder if the turbo is just on its last legs. Occasionally Ill see 5 or even 6psi but normally its 4 max, and that takes some time. It doesnt ever make 4 in 1st gear.
Maybee I should have never put the gauge in lol.
Dan
What do you make say, in 4th, at 2000 RPM?
So now it makes nearly NO boost, maybee 1-2psi by the guage, regardless of gear, load, rpm etc.
VAG shows no codes.
I still have around 22inhg at idle.
I cant find any sources of a boost leak. All the hose clamps are tight, no ripped boots etc.
N75 seemed to be operating like it should. Adding pressure manually to the side port will cause the WG actuator to move until N75 is powered up at which time the pressure is directed back to the intake.
The WG actuator seems to work properly. It starts to open around 4psi and seems to be at max travel around 8psi (Im guessing this is correct).
I have a strange feeling that perhaps the flapper disc has come off of the WG actuator lever and its just continuously bypassing the turbo (or mostly). Apparently it has happened before.
Might be time to do some turbo shopping…
Dan
Sure its just not a the boost gauge/or tubing to the gauge? Does the car actually feel slower?
k03’s can be had for under $100 with decent miles on em…
Car def feels slower… even just from 4psi to 0 (Im not sure I ever felt the full 8psi)
The gauge is functioning fine. It works perfectly at idle, and up to 0psi. I also pressure tested it from the end of the line where I have it T’d to be sure it would still read boost ok. Its within a psi of my mityvac gauge.
$100 would be fn awesome. Time to start looking around for a deal like that.
Dan
Unbolt the DP and check the valve on the waste gate actuator, I had one of these break off before.
^ ya, basically the next step.
