noi dont i think it prolly needs a map or maf sensor or a wire is prolly sending bad info
do you have the variable intake on the car now???
Guess I’ll have to go read up on how to use a voltmeter or whatever those things are called. Either that or go shell out $350 for a new MAF…which I also have read/heard that Nissan needs to re-program the ECU for since they altered the sensor a bit.
MAP is the boost sensor I referred too in the list of things I’ve replaced. I got a code for a MAP/Baro sensor and replacing that took care of it.
And yes…I have the VI on the car right now.
wonderin if that could be fuckin ya a little on the lean code ‘v/i intake’ ya do need to learn how to backprobe wires and test input and output voltage it will help ya
Well…sigh…I’m not the first guy to do this swap. I’m probably like the 1,000th. I haven’t been able to find anything linking this code to the swap…except for that VAFC-II bit I quoted.
Let’s say the wire IS bad…does that mean I have to run a new wire all the way to the ECU? :ohnoes
maybe or just find the bad spot and fix it but diag the maf first before ya hack the wiring up
didn’t read the whole thread, so i dunno if anyone mentioned it already.
i think he meant the monitors, not dtc’s… on 2000 and older you can have 2 monitors not ready and pass, '01 and newer, 1 monitor.
Will do.
Hey man…since you’re an inspector…would you be willing to help me with this?
In NYS, evidently, you can apply for a 1yr waiver of the inspection if your car passes the safety inspection but fails the OBDII inspection. I should have thought of this earlier since I’ve heard this before lol.
To do this, you have to do an inspection, fail, and then spend $450 in related repairs and try to reinspect and fail again…
Well…I’ve spent over $550 in related repairs. Here is the list…I’m sure all of these apply. Anyone know if any of these items wouldn’t ‘count’ towards the $450 amount?
- 6 NGK V-Power Spark Plugs - $11.94
- Fuel Filter - $11.69
- 2 Y-Pipe Exhaust Rings - $9.88
- EGR Tube - $33.36
- Header Gaskets - $67.42
- Anti-freeze - $22.95
- Rear Valve Cover Gaskets and Bolts/Grommets - $133.29
- Knock Sensor - $204.95
- Used MAF Sensor - $50
The above total equals $545.49. Obviously, some of the parts were related to the work I did (I had to drop the radiator to get the front header off, so I had to get new coolant, or the EGR Tube which was a piece of mind thing since I’d imagine mine would be very dirty, etc.) but I think it is all related and I now should be able to get a 1yr waiver for my inspection so I can have plenty of time to test things and fix my problem instead of throwing money at it hoping it gets fixed.
My plan is:
- Arrive for inspection
- Fail inspection due to OBDII CEL Codes
- Go to your inspection station and fail the inspection due to OBDII CEL Codes
- Show inspector (you) receipts/invoices for parts ordered/replaced
- Get 1yr waiver form filled out and sign by inspecting station
Good to go?
Does it matter if I bought the parts before I failed the original inspection?
So I installed a new O2 sensor (preventive maintenance but figured I might give it a try and see if it helps) and it didn’t fix the problem.
I then got tested but used injectors and installed those today.
Car runs MUCH better and is much smoother during acceleration throughout the RPM range. Also, after 60 miles…not even a pending code has come up.
I’m hoping I have fixed the problem.
No so fast…lol…
Problem still exists…
Here is some new information after driving 50 miles after clearing the code (freeze data):
I/M Status
- MIL Status: on
- Misfire Monitor: ok
- Fuel System Monitor: ok
- Comp. Component: ok
- Catalyst Mon: inc
- Htd Catalyst: n/a
- Evap System Mon: inc
- Sec Air System: n/a
- A/C Refrig Mon: n/a
- Oxygen Sens Mon: inc
- Oxygen Sens Htr: ok
- EGR Systems: inc
Freeze Data:
- Trouble Code: P0171
- Fuel SYS1: N/A
- Fuel SYS2: N/A
- CALC LOAD(%): 67.4
- COOLANT(*F): 185
- ST FTRM1(%): 24.2
- LT FTRM1(%): 23.4
- ST FTRM2(%): -2.3
- LT FTRM2(%): -7.0
- MAP (in.hg): 21.2
- RPM: 2100
- Vehicle Speed: 60mph
Things replaced so far (some were done as preventive maintenance while trying to fix this issue as well):
[list]
- New front and rear O2 sensors (H02S1-B2 - Front O2 Sensor Bank 2 and HO2S1-B1 - Front O2 Sensor Bank 1 respectively)
- New knock sensor
- New Rear Valve Cover Gasket
- New Fuel Filter
- New Spark Plugs
- Swapped out EBay Cone Intake for OEM 2000-2001 Maxima intake (I’m a 99 and mine doesn’t line up with the new manifold/TB)
- New O2 Sensor simulator (controls two of my O2’s I’m no longer using due to the fact that I’m running Fed. Spec OEM headers/y-pipe instead of California spec.)
- New gaskets between headers/engine and headers/y-pipe)
- Checked for leaks using TB cleaner - no leaks found
- New used injectors
- Tried 3 different MAF’s
I will be trying yet another MAF and changing the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor as my next steps. I will also ground the ground wire to the MAF since that has seemed to help some guys on the Maxima forums.
If those fail, I will probably be forced to take the car to a mechanic to have them diagnose it.[/list]
Another update.
I changed my engine coolant temperature sensor and I was able to get the car inspected just fine. Who knows…maybe the code is fixed now. Drove 50 miles and there isn’t even a pending code.
Code still comes on if I go WOT, but if I don’t it stays off (pending I clear it).
I’m putting my stock IM/injectors/valve cover/fuel rail on. Selling the 00VI. We’ll see if it was indeed the 00VI causing the problems. It it wasn’t, I’m going to a shop to have them check my engine/exhaust for leaks.
arent ya glad ya listened to me:retardclap