Post a PIC of your latest purchase.

Pete’s just being a cholo since he can’t weld anything

Hes a good eggg… i didnt take his kind words to heart. :lol

2X:

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/images/2606764.jpg

A wilwood dual cylinder swing mount pedal

http://images.chassisshop.com/CACHEB9876F3AAAF2EC7618AEA4B27D1B2F26/Wilwood/pn_3401287/340-1287_1.jpg

that will ditch the stock ABS junk, booster, master cylinder and clean up under the hood alot more.

pro grip aluminum steering wheel

http://ijspeed.com/images/mod%20prod/small%20images/P1030956.jpg

quick disco

http://www.tracksidetim.com/images/quickrelease4.gif

some 3/4 shaft, a teflon heim and the rest of the crap to make the steering on the jetta.

How will braking be without a booster?

fine. Tons of people are doing that. I’m considering it as well

ohh and a kick ass radiator:

https://www.circletracksupply.com/images/P/radiator_universal.jpg

not the exact same one but you get the idea.

Its a PRC aluminum radiator. its 24X19 dual pass, -20AN in and out (we will make some an coolant lines and fittings for the block and head too). It also has a built in oil cooler, with -10 in/out! Damn trick if you ask me.

I should have the cleanest engine bay evar!

Than why are there boosters?

Yeah like he said. I have been talking to another VW guy that made a mk4 jetta track car and hes running this setup and a single and another pedal for the clutch and he said they are awesome. A little extra foot effort but they will stop the car! They are rated for 6 piston calipers so they should have no problem with my little dualies and single out back.

I was between the single wilwood “tandem” cyclinder and a single swing pedal. it has a front and rear out and an adjuster in the middle of the stroke on the cylinder. but I didnt know how much you could take away from the rear circuit so I spent the extra $20 on the dual single outs and dual pedal.

they are actually rather cheap. $49 a cylinder and $119 for the pedal.

I am not looking into the clutch side. They make a smaller one for a slave cylinder. and people make aluminum universal push type slaves for the clutch fork, then do a braided hard line in beteen to get some better clutch feel and pressure on the heavy duty pressure plate in the car. the stock slave and stock spungy fork in my car causes the clutch to hang and makes it hard to shift in the high revs. I boxed the fork and it made a big difference… not I need to ditch the plastic slave and rubber line. :thumbup

smaller piston/stroke in stock boosted cylinders, and to make your grandma happy with the soft pedal feel.

booster multiplies the braking force for you. Power brakes are a lot easier to press than manual. Testing has been done and the non power set-ups stop just as well, it just takes more effort. Just know that unhooking your booster is NOT the same as a properly set-up manual brake system.

the nic cage mobile has manual brakes. they are fine, just don’t be afraid to step on the pedal.

A lot of Honda guys use this… or similar. Booster delete plate

http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz55/polandlinda/IMG_3572.jpg

I may have to take my bay to the next level to compete with KRAZYKID!

Dats stoopid

I like, but ill stay with as much oem as i can but yet still try to make it look clean

Kinda hard for me to keep it OEM with my motor choice. :frowning:

word, gonna be needing help from you when i dig into my bay

im gonna show all you fools up.

No. Im gonna.

Well this is engine bay related as well. I just bought one of each of Hondas OEM harness pins. Probably the hardest to find part numbers out of everything they have. Took awhile to find (years)

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:pqUHP0uJk8h42M:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v103/healtoeae86/DSC04495.jpg&t=1

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/517/621/26290310008_large.jpg