Yeah. The RB25 runs too hot for a core of that size. I have two 12" Mishimoto fans and they would always be on, even 30 mins after my car is off. It seperated at the bottom and leaked from the front and back across the entire rad. Now with my new rad the engine runs much, much better. Looking back, if I knew an aluminum rad made that much of a difference, my car would have never hit the road without one.
---------- Post added at 06:49 PM ---------- Previous post was made in 1872 ----------
Loving the LED cluster and cabin swap John. It’s addictive. Almost my entire car has been LED swapped at this point lol. Can’t wait to see the HID’s in that, it’ll be baller then for sure.
Short answer: it’s the way they’re being setup. I only saw one fan pulling on Manny’s setup, and it was off a temp sensor wasn’t it? He should have two 12" fans pulling all the time, ran off a switch. He has a stock intake manifold and a small turbo running in the upper range of it’s efficiency as well doesn’t he? Does he have a front mount now, or still the side mount? If he’s boosting that high with a sidemount, his intake charge would be too hot, that compunded with the turbo producing more waste heat and a cycle of inefficient cooling would result in a hot intake charge being taken into the engine, which contains less oxygen, therefore making the engine have to work harder (take in more air) to produce more power. Oil temps would be elevated due to the heat of the turbo and the block being heated up, in which the pcv runs across the top of said block. Thr block being iron itself will retain more heat than aluminum. He also has no ducting on his bumper, so not as much air is directed to his rad, and not enough is flowing through. So his oil temp is rising due to the aforementioned, and his cooling system is consequently working harder to keep the temps down. Unfortunately, water does not have the same resistance to heat as oil. The oil can take a high rose in temperature, the water cannot. Therefore, he begins to overheat and his water system cannot compensate for the heat load being placed on his setup.
Or something like that. Anyway, I noticed quite early how hard my cooling system was working with the KA rad, and that made me nervous about tracking it. Despite my rad seperating, I never overheated. Even when I pissed coolant everywhere I never overheated. I think being anal about proper warm up and cool down, having two fans, selecting the correct grade of oil to have the correct amount of centistrokes, and having enough flow to cool my iron block in it’s application, and having ducting that channels air efficiently contributed to not ever overheating.
Now with an aluminum rad it runs the way it should have from the getco. The core size is efficient enough to properly cool, and it’s construction materials are excellent at dissipating heat. Big difference in under the hood temps for sure.
I can’t comment on Keith’s setup, but I can make suggestions based on experience and observation, and shoot around ideas. Feel free to put me in contact wih them or arrange something if they are open to that.
Thanks Travis I need to find better LEDs for the cluster I have too many hot spots. Hid’s would look good, but I would still love a proper tsx retro fit but we all know that’s $$$$$
Got my new floor mats in, so took the slut for a bath and went to the 407 weight station and checked the weight distribution after the battery relocation.