^^^it was done by hand. i have a powerball but i didnt use it, honestly im not too impressed with the powerball. its good for getting the bulk of the polishing done, but finish polishing should be done by hand.
there was alot more that went into the tunnel then just the rag though.
the process i used:
-first i stripped off all stickers, and used wd40 to get off the rest of the goo.
-then scotchbrite to get off any oxididation or deep grooves and such. (if your doing a wheel or something thats curbrashed pretty good, taking a file or a da to it first and sanding isnt a bad idea, i did that with my foose wheels when i bought em)
-i then used steel wool, a bit finer then the scotch brite
-then use polish of choice WITH the steel wool. believe it or not this works awesome.
-then use a rag and polish of choice to do finish polish(for me i had a bag of old socks from my dad lol) socks or tshirt material works best.
ill go over it quick once a month or so to keep up with it and the shine will only get better. it also helps if the metal is warm, so if your garage is cold then bring the part inside or get out a heater.
if you have really bad dirt/brake dust caked on/oxidation and such get yourself a bottle of etch, if you got a hookup at a dealer you can get some there, or you can get a bucket of it at a truckstop. this stuff is really nasty though and cant be left on long or itll start eating the aluminum. i didnt use any on the tunnel as its not needed.
update. managed to make some more progress this week between eating all the turkey.
got the left side of tunnel polished.
rear bumper and a new snowflap on. i usually go through 2 of these a season from getting a little carried away on wheelies and such…lets see how long it lasts haha
well i did a piston squish test last night. measured out at .082. average factory spec was .088-.090. so i figure sweet its tighter then expected so it was a good one from the factory. i wont have to cut the head. anywho, i then did a compression test. good ones had 140-145psi. i had 134 and 135. not happy. itll run fine, but not have that little extra power. so i put a little oil in each cyl and check it again. had about 160 and 148, so yep rings are going bad.
im gonna tear it down and have the cylinders honed and rering the stock pistons. might have the head cut about 5 thou, not sure though since i should already be in the 155-160psi range after new rings, and with that kind of compression with the other changes i have planned, 150hp is defineatly there.
yea, i wanted an idea of where it was at. thing is it ran great and had plenty of power, but it wouldve went down as the year went on. sled only has 3307 miles too which i was surprised by. i think that the rings mightve never fully seated from the start. it was pretty common on f7’s.
i also did some pricing out, and i can do spi teflon moly coated pistons with rings/wristpin/c clips with new wristpin bearings and cometic gasket set for about 240 bucks. just doing oem rings and gaskets on the original oem pistons is about 180, so i think im gonna spring for the spi setup as they seem to be pretty good and far better than the wisecos. now to wait for them to get back in stock at hiperf engineering. having the cylinders honed should only run me about 15 bucks so not bad for a whole top end rebuild. i will be having the head cut 5thou more then where its at as well.
yes they are plated cylinders. they can typically be honed a few times before needing to be redone on these sleds. i’ll be having my buddy jim our “crew chief” for racing give me a hand on reassembly as hes done a rediculous amount of motors and hes really familiar with these 800/900 zr’s. i did my 600 myself when i had that one, but i figure it wont hurt to have him watch over the project.
I love this project. I can’t wait to get another sled. I sold my '97 Indy 500 and my '97 ZR580 and regret it so much. I currently have an '81 Arctic Cat Panterra but that can’t really be ridden, it is just too tough on my back lol.
alright got an update. first of all, im a retard. when i was doing compression tests before, i didnt have the throttle tied open. wasent thinking and i completely forgot about doing this. so i did them again, had 142/143psi. exactly where its supposed to be. no need to rebuild. sweeeet.
had to replace a coolant hose though, so since i had to drain down the coolant i had the heads cut anyways. went 6 thou to bring the squish down to .76
speedwerx y-pipe
exhaust on, stock pipe for now until i get a single, either will end up getting the speedwerx to match or replace the speedwerx y with a d&d and d&d single pipe. polished the heat shield while i was at it.
i also cleaned the powervalves. this is how they should look like. nice and clean.
thanks. and its not a mountain handlebar setup, just a custom setup that i found to be the most comfortable for both standing and sitting with my boss seat. that and coming from the quads with mx bars i found that i like the wider feel over regular sled bars.
im in pendleton but i ride in the WNY area. mostly in my area and through akron, indian falls, clarence. ill load up in the trailer and take a trip to chattaqua county every so often with my buddies from racing. i dont have a truck as a daily anymore so im limited on where i can go, but luckily theres a pipeline couple houses down from me that i can take to get to the trails.
And if you get a chance ride tughill hill for a day or two. If you go with friends and get a cheap room it’s a blast, the trails up there and amount of snow is always crazy.
^^^yea, i havent been to tug hill but i did go to old forge last year. apparently though according to all the online forums we went on the worst weekend of the year. go figure lol. it was alot of fun but we only saw one groomer so the trails were getting pretty bad with the snirt. the trail going to big moose is fun though, perfect trail to adjust suspension on and to see if your in good shape or not haha. big moguls for MILES. lol
I’ve got a question for 95dime / anyone else that has experience with 2 stroke sleds. I have an 01 srx 700. It runs great when its cold, but after it warms up it starts to miss at high rpm’s (7,000)ish. If i keep on it while its missing it will sometimes backfire; this leads me to believe that I’m not burning gas (either the carb is sticking and allowing too much gas in a cylinder, or I’m losing spark). Last year I hit the kill switch while it was missing, stopped and checked the plugs. The PTO was black, and the other 2 were clean. I’ve already cleaned the power valves and cut the plug wires back 1/4 inch. The compression is great in all 3 cylinders.
I’m starting to think it’s either a cdi or stator problem. Any of you have input?
Sorry for the thread jacking, you can respond via pm.
check coil and cdi first, those can crack and when it gets warm the crack could be expanding and losing connection. stators can cause problems in upper rpm but you usually wont be able to pull those rpm’s when a stator goes bad.
im assuming youve ruled out any type of fuel related problem for the mis and have checked for gasket/seal leaks.
hop on hardcoresledder.com, theres some pretty knowledgable people on there. im not too familiar with yami’s
hit the crank on the output side behind the clutch with carb clean while it’s running lightly, see if RPM’s change. sounds like a possible crank seal going.
^ Exactly what he said. I just had to do this on my Polaris XLT. Similar symptoms to what you’re describing, I checked all the usuals first, CDI, stator, carbs, fuel pump, etc. Ended up being a small rip in the stator side crank seal. Seals are cheap, bad part is you have to split the case to change them though. PTO side is easier to check since its exposed, do like above, spray it with some carb cleaner and that’ll tell you real quick.
