that 700 triple, along with every other triple is known for crank seals.
thus why i had assumed he already checked that one, haha.
anywho, more of an update.
some parts came in so i got the cooling system all back together, and got some plastic corregated wire loom to protect the coolant hoses from rubbing on anything(reason i had to replace 2 hoses) also replaced some other gaskets. the rest of the parts i ordered should be in thursday or friday.
i also “modified” my powervalves before putting them back in. these bigblocks are known to have problems when they start getting high miles where the apv plate wears and allows the valve to come in too far and clip the top of the piston. the usual fix to prevent this is either buying a shim, or filing down the valve. since i couldnt get ahold of the guy that made the shims, i opted to file the edge of the valve, so that i never have to worry about this happening. used a file, then sanded, then emery. this will have zero effect on power or how the sled runs, just a bit of a “safety” measure.
carbon tech reed petals came in today. the best reed petals that actually do make an improvement in my opinion. so i swapped these in with the reed spacers. throttle body is really tight at the steering post but just clears. right now i can only get stuff done as the parts come in, hopefully my throttle cable comes in tomorrow so i can finish the underhood stuff and fire this up.
update. tomorrow a few friends are coming over and were dialing in our clutching. its nice having 2 runways 3/4 mile long in my backyard 
will be tuning mine, a, f8 snopro ho with some mods, a firecat with an f9 kit, and a heavily modded crossfire 600. ill try to get some pics in. right now im borrowing a set of stock skis, but hopefully sometime next week ill have the c&a’s. i got some free carbides coming in the mail from woody’s. slim jim dooly 8".
new belly pan
hood mounted. decided to wait til summer to have painted. i will however be switching out the windshield with a low chrome one to match tunnel. (this one will be mounted on wall, is from when i was racing the 600)
brand new mountain cat cable pulled apart. bought this thinking it was longer but its not, they just moved where the block was, so i decided to make my own.
the shorter cable is from the zr, i swapped the mc one to the zr lower portion for a 6-7" longer cable, without having a stupid throttle extender.
cable on, handle bars 100% done
put in the reed spacers and petals, got airbox in, hooked everything up. also measured squish after having heads cut, it is now .075, its .013-.015 tighter then the stock “spec”.
Sweet, looks like you’re all ready for Wednesday!
welp, did some playing on the runway today. had my buddys crossfire 600, my zr, jim’s f8 ho, an f7 with a 900 bigbore, and a new skidoo 800r. got the tune and clutching better, on the crossfire, then got mine dialed in really good. im gonna tweak the suspension a little for more bite and i need to cleck clutch alignment because i blew 2 belts, but this thing flat out hauls ass. with the f8 stock clutching, i whooped his ass. i was about 3 lengths behind the 900 big bore, we were even til midrange, he would pull hard and up top it was a steady 3 sledlengths. the 800r i would beat if i hook up good, otherwise i real him in, but he was getting really good traction. after that we did some clutching on the f8, got alot more midrange out of that one, now that pulls on me a little, pretty much dead even but i got a little more top end still. hes over revving 200 rpm still, and we noticed some things with the clutches to sort out, but when we get that figured out that thing is gonna be spanking everyone. just getting the midrange better it picked up probably 5-6 sledlengths from stock.
so basically i have a few suspension adjustments to make, then check my clutch alignment and get a torque arm so i dont blow belts. then ill get my c&a skis and chrome windshield and ill be done til this summer when the hood gets painted, and come summer time i think ill be changing the track too, probably a 7/8" lug with 240.
some of the sleds infront of the race trailer. the other guys had already left.
woops. lol.
Nice I need to get my track in ASAP.
what kind of sled do you have? theyre not too hard to do. im down to about 1-1.5 hours swapping tracks in the chaincase cats now lol. polaris arent too bad either.
I have a Ski Doo Rev 800. I have the skid out, just have to take the chaincase off and it should come right off, its my first time dooing it so its been taking me longer than it should
hmm, i havent done a skidoo but if its anything like cat or polaris, theres no need to take chaincase off. should be able to just drain oil and take cover off, take chain and bottom sprocket off, undo bolts for plate on inside of chaincase that press against bearing, then undo bolts that hold clamshell for left side shaft bearing, then slide driveshaft to the left to get out of chaincase, then back into tunnel down out the bottom. i imagine the skidoo will be pretty similar to that. i also reccomend replacing those bearings while you have it apart. 3k is the limit i let those go to even if theyre in good shape. its easier then having one let go halfway through a season
I’m not taking the chain case out just the cover. I asked the guy at Don George’s about the Jackshaft bearings and he told me that I don’t need to replace them, I asked him to sell me everything that I should get while I’m there. He said the ski Doo’s have really good jackshaft bearings and to not worry about it. But now I’m thinking I should just replace them anyway.
BTW, I have 4k on the sled.
^^no offense to don georges, but that place blows. seriously. with 4k miles on those bearings i would absolutely replace them, otherwise youll be taking it apart to replace them before the sled needs a new track again. even if those bearings have been getting greased im sure theyre still worn, and theyre fairly cheap. 3k miles is around when alot of bearings and such start going bad. sleds are probably the worst when it comes to abuse and the elements for this stuff.
Replace the bearings on the drive axle, cheap insurance while you have it apart. Hardest part I had on my mxz was the circlip behind the sprocket. Should be easier since you have the room with a rev chassis. Also there is a seal that the drive axle runs through that keeps the oil in the chain case, just be careful not to rip it. Im sure you know this but watch those crank bearings on the 800.
Parts blowout
http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/Skidoo_OEM/Skidoo.asp?Type=13&A=619&B=15
I bought a new seal for the chain case.
Its funny you mention crank bearings, I did just did a compression and pressurized the motor with 5psi, it held but when I pulled the cap off the PTO elbow s little grease came out and would slowly seep air out. I was told by a Ski Doo Tech that I have nothing to worry about.
EDIT: So I should replace bearings #23 and #6
You want #76 and #6 for the drive axle. #23 and #57 are for the counter shaft, id replace #23 just because of the force the secondary puts on it. Definitely replace the ones on the drive axle while you have it out. As for the crank bearings skidoo used isoflex for the pto/mag bearings. The grease leaks out and bad things happen. The inner bearings I believe are lubricated by 2-stroke oil. If you catch it early you can repack them. Many topics about it on dootalk.com about the 800 bearings and the flaking rings.
Are those bearings something that you could get at Buffalo Bearing a lot cheaper or is it that much better to go with OEM?
I would either buy a rebuilt crank from skidoo or send it off to seadoo clinic for the fatty bearing upgrade and never have to worry about them again. Ive herd that seadoo clinic is around $600 for a rebuilt crank with sealed fatty bearings and new connecting rods. You can send them the bottom end and they will do all the work and send it back for $700-$800 from what ive seen. Roughly $600 for crank, $75 for assembly, $25 for seals + shipping cost. I’d call them to get a firm price. If you have the means to change the bearings yourself then I’d search for an upgraded bearing.
http://www.outboardjunkyard.com/home.html
update…spent some time this week on the sled.
got some free carbides direct from woody’s. 8" slim jim dooly’s
torque arm fabbed up to keep the motor from twisting.
torque arm bolted in
clutches aligned
picked up an “xtreme low” chrome cobra windshield. fit like shit. cracked from not fitting right. so my way of solving the problem, going to heb’s and sending that piece of shit back.
i picked up this gem on craigslist. brand new still in the plastic factory cat red chrome windshield. they don’t even offer these anymore, and in the sunlight they look awesome. its a couple inches taller then i would like, but it looks good. i think i will paint the screens for the hood vents metallic red to match, and when the hood gets painted this summer ill have some dark metallic red in there to go with it. now to just get my black c&a’s. will be ordering those this week.
the red chrome windshield on:
the piece of shit cobra windshield:
painted the hood vent screens metallic red to match
