re: my thread

Ok so if you would like to make sure your side is clear then maybe you should make sure you are telling the whole story not just bits and pieces.

Coolant Hoses
On your bill you were charged for 1 rad hose and 2 heater hoses. There is not one charge for a lower rad hose.

Compression Test
Yes we did a test. When we picked up the engine. How does anyone of us know that the person you are comparing us to knows what they are doing and has a proper high quality gauge which is regularly used? We have no reason to lie since it would save us this kind of grief that you are creating.

Oil Pan Sealant
What we used is a high temp RTV sealant. This is a common practice because it performs much better then a cork or paper gasket. Also it is supplied with the factory pans from Nissan. There is no possible way the sump got clogged by using this sealant. You would have to coat the bottom of the sump to get results like you are describing. As for the pan itself leaking we had never detected this. If we had it would have been fixed.

Idle Issue
The issue was diagnosed as an IAC issue and it was decided at that time to insert a restrictor in the line to bring the idle down to 900-1000. Which is acceptable. Unfortunately in the stock ECU the IAC duty properties cannot be changed. An EMS would solve this issue.

Harness
Pictures tell a thousand words however I would post them but cannot post attachments in this section. The only part that was not loomed was 8" at the end of the temp sensor wires and other few wires directly beside the water neck everything below above and beside were loomed. We did however check before doing this and noted that it would cause no adverse effects. Sorry but there is no way I would state that it was to hard to get to.

Rust In Motor/Timing Belt
There is no way to check for calcium deposits and rust inside an engine without disassembly. Yes the timing belt was tight and needed to be re-adjusted. This was brought up by yourself and we said that we could fix that in 20min. You chose to have it done before we could get to it.

Boost T
Thank you for acknowledging that issue did not have anything to do with the job we performed.

Car and parts outside
The vehicle spent a majority of it’s time inside the shop. Occasionally it was put outside due to waiting on parts either supplied by us or yourself. I don’t seem to remember having a bunch of spare parts here. Maybe you are talking about the unneeded old parts. You were more then welcome to take them home with you on your many trips up here.

Throttle Body
Yes your TB was dirty causing the plate to be stiff we cleaned it 3 times to no avail. We modified your TB by removing the traction control motor on the side of the throttle body since it was not required with your swap. Yes there are two screws there however they are supposed to be for adjustment of that motor. What the shop did was adjust the TB plate screw which allowed the plate to open ever so slightly raising your idle once again. After your trip to have this fixed at another shop you returned here and said it was still doing the same thing.

A/F Gauge
We recommended the AEM wideband and you opted for an Autometer narrow band. The main power issue from previous work done before was causing the issue with it working sometimes.

Battery Tray
We have this installed in many of our personal vehicles and most customers. Never have we had an issue.