I’m looking into doing a setup like this, But with a Tstat, and fitting for a heater.
The stock WP is 15pounds, so I think you could save about half that.
I was just thinking, do I even seen a Tstat for street driving, Well I want temp control, but think about it more…
I was looking at a remote Moroso Tstat housing 63425 or
63426 http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=26326
Like used here. And it would work as the Y for the other side of the system (useing a 2-1 fitting pump on the other) using the block mount fittings.
Why not just hook up the pump off a temp sensor switch? Isn’t a Tstat just because a mechainal WP has no “off” to hold fuild in the rad to cool?
This would be better for the ele WP too, less run time = less wear. And pumping into a closed Tstat can’t be good, Like the above setup. I would assume you have the pump wired to Key on. Even with a few holes drilled into it for a slight bleed. And better for the motor letting it warm up faster on cold nights at the track.
Couldn’t I just wire the pump to the thermo switch? Like this one http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=29012
And what temp would you run a LS1 at?
Would a thermo switch for a ele fan kit work too, its just a fuild temp swtich, you could use a adjustable one like this?
Not sure about that derdale 16769 setup (only 10* difference, not sure how “fast” that switch reads) but that idea to set it up with some adjustments. I can see it kicking on, and getting hit with cooled fuild form the rad. in 2 sec. And kicking off… repeat…
I would think you could move the senor so it wasn’t right near the pump outlet obviously. But I can see it not working as easy as a system, as the switch info says. " turns the pump on at XXX and off at XXX, Bingo! thats simple"
I’m looking for a street/track setup, you can just get in the car and drive for 2 hours Hwy self controlled, and stop and go city driving. Keep the Fans PCM controlled.
Seems like something really complicated for no reason…What do you actually get out of this? You would save weight switching to the EWP anyways now your adding more hoses/fitting to locate it somewhere else away from the motor.
If you’re not circulating water inside the heads/block with the pump off your going to end up with hot spots…
The run time/life time on those water pumps isn’t very low people have ran them for years on LS1tech with no issues.
You would also need to pick the location of the temp sensor since the temps inside the heads would be way more then coolant sitting outside the water pump…that being said even the front coolant temp sensor on heads has swing in temp from that location to the back of the heads.
Why not just put an electric water pump on the motor to replace the factory? It would prolly be slightly lighter but also free up so HP by not being belt driven.
I think for the amount of work you might make maybe at most .5 HP more. maybe. It’s not like removing a clutch fan that is a large rotating fan. even that you might only gain a 1 HP by reducing parasitic loss.
as well stock pumps increase the circulation at higher RPM. as for faster warm ups that’s exactly why the thermostat is there. its designed to stop the flow of water though the radiator into the block as soon as the water warms up it opens and allows the water to flow into the rad stopping the car from over heating and maintaining operating temperatures.
Ya, a setup like this will use a ele pump, but mounted off the motor for a few reasons, then HP and weight. The engine mounted pumps weights more by design then a simple setup like this mounting some alum plates with fitting on the motor. The meziere engine mounted street pump weights more then stock, btw. This setup makes it alot easier and faster to work on the car, and the motor. Frees up a ton of room for other things and allows you relocate needed things, to were you want.
And I like the way it looks.
I know how my HP the stock pump uses already, and how the Tstat works thanks.
I would think with the WP not pumping at all (with NO Tstat) it would warm up faster. An improvement I could use.
Trying to fire it up/down on coolant temp to extend the life of the pump instead of just wiring it on/off with a switch/ignition like everyone else is kinda dumb.
Geesh. Seems like way more trouble than it’s worth. If anything, maybe a standard mount EWP. I don’t see how this would be beneficial for the $$ and effort spent on a setup like yours.
OT- does Edelbrock make a high flowing LSX head now? I haven’t been in the loop for a while, but that seems like a serious setup in the first picture, and I didn’t know of any big boy Edelbrock heads out there.
No t-stat typically required when you go such small gauge with AN lines, the restriction to flow is enough to allow for proper heat transfer. Roundy-round fools just run a gutted t-stat to slow flow, or a fixed orifice.
I blocked LZ but Im sure its stupid shit I already knew 5 years ago, he thinks is cutting edge on his piece of shit car hes done nothing with ever. haha
The spot for the sensor I don’t know what would work best, but I can move that around easy. I was wounding if anyone has done something like this, and had some info on what they did. But Ive found almost nothing on running a setup like this?
Untill the pump turns on, and no flow on a running engine. Its not gona be a even coolant temp as it heats up so I guess they will be hots spots you can say. But I don’t see any hotter spots being bad, and I would set it up so no spots would get over 200* before the pump is engaged.
This is the place I’m thinking about, putting the sensor. About at the top of the last red arrow in the diagram. It’s away from cool coolant entering the engine, and around the ext ports and the combustion chambers. The source of heat.
If this turn out to hard to setup a self running system, I could change it to Key on power so the plum is running with the engine all the time.
They do, but they started back early 2000ish and GM started making better casting to use for performance, and they never updated them. People would buy them that don’t know any better, finding them in summit or some outdated Espeedshop.com website.
edit, oh the Pic is a E brock casting. But I wouldn’t call it there head, Its a join project they did. Supplying the raw casting they can do in there foundery, But cutis boggs @ RFE did all the ports. The casting has no seats, guilds, pushrod holes or anything really. CFE dose all the work getting it to a killer running head. The shit is badass http://www.raceflowdevelopment.com/RFD-heads-LSR.htm
