RPS13 (88-94) 240sx buyers guide?

Hey all,

I recently had to let my 2 ae86’s go due to a change in priorities (it’s a heart breaking story… really) Anyways I’m looking at a few 240 sx’s right now (RPS13) and was wondering what I should look out for when buying one…

tell tale signs of abuse and common trouble spots… I have experience with cars but really don’t know much in regards to specifics with the 240sx

I know this question may have been asked before but after a thorough search on the board I didn’t find a faq written up on it…

If anyone can shed some light on this I’d be very greatful.

anyways… heres what I know as of now…

88 - 94 240sx’s came in 2 generations…
88-90 zenki (early models)
and
91-94 Kouki (later models)

there were 2 models available SE and LE
LE had super HICAS steering (4 wheel steering?)

Kouki models came with LSD and a 16v ka24de
zenki models had NO LSD and had a 12v Ka24e

cheers

If you find a car with no rust on the front strut towers (very top) then the car most likely has no rust anywhere. It is very rare (i personally haven’t seen a car with no rust there)

240s also like to rust right underneath the mirrors. I’d suggest going for 91-93, simply because it’ll spare you trouble of finding lsd, thinking about looks, etc. The engine is better as well, and it’s easier to do sr swaps with 91-93 engine.

Someone should seriously start writing a guide for beginners. Not to
sound all bad but just to avoid the repetitiveness.

One sticky thread with the How-to and people can post below it if they
have any other suggestions to make (i.e. we don’t lock the sticky up)…
And remember to keep it strictly on topic.

The biggest thing to look for on any car is frame damage/rust.

The best spot to look for on a 240 for rust are on the driver side jack point on the frame and right above the muffler. The S13 frame and Sub frame were made up of using old Russian army surplus mild steel laminated together. When moisture got in-between the layers it caused rust to form. Now with rust forming in-between the layers that caused them to split and weaken the whole structural integrity of the vehicle. If you see any splitting metal the cars a no-go unless you are prepared to fork out $1800 to get the rear frame re-built.

^^^ I sometimes wonder how you know so frickin’ much. :shock:

He’s not human I tells ya.

Thx for the support guys… I’ll tell u how it went

and I’ll post pics soon

i also have 0 rust anywhere in the whole car

its still an 89’ with 183kk on it…

its all due to no salt…and rust proofing

thats common knowledge(sp?). Me and many others found this out the hardway, wif a wonderfull 600 repair bill :slight_smile:

And i’d like to add, that this is a star post, for someone getting into 240’s. He has done research and knows wut he is talking about. To all those lurkers, if u want some respect and don’t wanna get flammed by certain people on the forum. This is how not too. Ask a valid question and u will get a star answer.

In regards to question, ur biggest enemie is indeed the frame on these cars. Also rear fenders. The have an inner and outer fender, so water likes to collect and rust these out. Two major probs wif 240’s! u dun wanna smell exhaust in the cabing :slight_smile:

Good luck wif search, any other questions. SHOOT! :slight_smile: