I am helping my ex-girlfriend find a new car after she totaled hers. I am thinking early 2000’s 325xi or 330xi, because they are in her price range and fit her wants/needs. Also because I would not think giving her a rear drive is a good idea. What are known issues with these/ things to look out for. Also she can’t drive stick so it will be autotragic.
first off, i have a 2003 325i, and with snows and traction on, it’s pretty damn hard to play, if that’s your primary concern. imo, the snows make a world of difference.
so far the only real repairs needed have been the re-wiring of both tail lights and a new starter. if i remember correctly, i also needed a new seal on the driver side door when i first purchased the car. my friend also has a 2003 and had the same issues with the lights and starter.
overall, i pretty much love the car.
If we are talking women driver that has never driven a rear driver in her life. Is it still what you would call safe? Is traction control that good? I know my Audi would work magic with the TC but wasn’t sure if the AWD had a lot to do with it.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46
http://www.windigoauto.com/E46CommonProblems.html
And don’t get an Xi… if she hurts herself while driving a i/Ci/iC it really is Darwin talking
I have an 03 325i for sale 
Survived a 4 vehicle pile up as a passenger in a 2000 323i, that included getting hit by a semi. Safe cars. This one had 155k or so miles on it with just normal wear and tear replacement- so you know they are good for a long time.
BMWNA lost a lawsuit, so if it hasn’t been done already, the rear subframes have to be replaced at BMW’s expense. Only recall I’ve heard on these cars, just make sure its done.
Great car- can’t go wrong.
helping the ex-girlfriend? fuck that!!
in all seriousness, if you find a car, get me the vin and/or bring it to me and ill let you know what kind of shape its in…
Mine’s been running great 3.5 years and almost 90k miles (50k by me). No real mechanical problems besides wear. I would check under the car before buying anything. Subframe, steering and suspension. The only thing I have now is a slight hesitation every once in a while when I hit the gas and not starting on the first try, but that’s only been on a really cold day when the cars been sitting outside for 24+ hours, but that’s something I’ll fix in the spring. There’s so many resources and DIYs on them it really makes them a good buy. I’ve never run into something that’s not been done, fixed, and clearly pictured.
VANOS!
I wouldnt suggest getting her a BMW unless you or someone you know will be doing the maintenance/repairs. While it isnt expensive to maintain a BMW, its expensive to pay people to work on it.
I, on the other hand, have an 01 accord that I am selling for a decent negotiable price,
that is the only bad thing i remember hearing about the e46’s, the rear subframes like to rip off
also, i have to say when i owned a bmw the people on the forums were super helpful and had all kinds of write ups for diy’s and common problems. these honda people are really starting to piss me off…
gl with the search
three years ago i was that girl?
personally, i think its easier to drive rwd in the winter due to it’s predictability. the only reason i put snows on this year was because i got stuck a handful of times last winter when we got slammed with lake effect snow, even with it weighted.
I have a subaru and it’s completely predictable when I drift it. Honestly an Xi will slide like a RWD, if you give it too much gas either will slide, but that’s why BMW put TC on them. You really won’t have to worry about it either way.
Now as far as getting stuck goes, the Xi wins hands down, especially since the RWD doesn’t have a LSD. Both will be just as stable driving around in the snow, if however you want to reduce the chances she’ll ever get stuck, then go Xi. And yes, AWD doesn’t make you turn or brake any better in the snow, so snows are the way to go no matter what.
^
this.
I agree 100%. I am the biggest advocate of snow tires I know. If you live in the Buffalo area and do not have snows for winter, you are a hazzard to everyone and yourself in my opinion. People just don’t understand until they have had them.
Have you ever owned one or just going on one or two failures you “heard” about?
what are you talking about?
I have not had the pleasure to own an e46 (yet) but I have done a lot of research. Poor cold weather performance is usually tied to a worn out vanos system and BMW service charges $80+/hour for labor. A lot of indy shops dont have the skills/tools/patience required to work on an e46 beyond brakes/suspension. I have gotten a lot of shit from people when I tell them I am looking into getting an e46 soon “it will cost sooooo much to own” and thats BS if you have the ability to do it your self.
Oh, so you aren’t talking out of experience. Ok.
Makes PERFECT sense now 
i have an '02 w/ 102 on the clock, great car! I have owned it for two years, i bought a set of steel wheels and put winter forces on it and it drives great in the snow! I was thinking about selling it in the spring $9,900/ winter tires/ heated seats/ sun roof/ 50% tint.
ok, but what exactly are you talking about?
i have a '99 323i. just shy of 163k now, and runs and drives like brand new. goes great in the snow rwd is no problem at all with the traction control these have. had the subframe repaired free of charge last july. my car is stick, but the automatics were known to have problems, mostly with losing reverse. theyre not hard at all to work on and cost of parts isnt too bad either. most replacement parts i get through pelicanparts or turner motorsports.
common things to go bad:
-60-80k replace the waterpump, thermostat, rad hoses and youll be fine.
-60-80k serpentine belts and tensioner/idler pulley. go with the hydraulic tensioner if you still have mechanical.
-60-80k control arm bushings, soon after rear trailing arm bushings. not a bad idea to replace front control arms the second time around replacing the bushings or if balljoints are bad. swaybar end links can break, theyre inexpensive as well.
-80-100k shocks and struts will be needing attention.
-eventually bushing for rear diff will wear and youll get a clunking, easy replacement.
-automatics have issues
-window regulators like to fail.
-clips for sunscreen on moonroof like to break, its an easy fix.
also they make reinforcement plates for the front shock towers to prevent mushrooming as well as the rear shock towers. both are around 20 bucks and good idea to do when replacing shocks/struts.
really, maintenence wise these cars arent any worse then any other car out there and the prices arent much more either. get a bentlety manual and learn to do the work yourself. the quality and fit/finish imo is better then the e36’s and the ride is amazing.
if its been taken care of and the subrame has been or can be fixed, i wouldnt hesitate at all with purchasing another one of these. theyre defineatly a better car then those of domestic and japanese companies. not to mention they are very safe cars when it comes to car crashes if thats a concern.