Should it stay or should it go (Audi A3)


Leaking. No extended warranty on mine though. It could have been either the pump or a little union that’s under the pump that are known to crack but either way the pump had to be removed to get to it. Once we were that far in there was no way I was going to have them put a 70k mile pump back even if it was the union so I had it all replaced.


Shame they didn’t cover it.

Back to tensioner… I assume since yours is a 2012 that you confirmed you have the newer timing chain tensioner, or are you just winging it with the old style?

I feel like if I take care of that soon, and stay on top of the normal stuff… life could be OK for a year or more gulp It’s really the only thing that worries me on a catastrophic scale.

Just ordered a new oil change kit (and an extra QT for the trunk, it eats a QT every 8k which is perfectly acceptable IMO) and the trans fluid kit with magnetic plugs.

I really do love this car.


Everything you are saying points towards keeping the car. You love the car, but are scared by a few small factors that really, if you have kept up on the maintenance as you have to this point, should not concern you so long as you continue to be proactive about things. The car sounds to be in nice shape because of what you’ve done, why change it up now?
No payment w/some proactive continuity on the maintenance side > any car payment in my opinion.


I have the old style and I’m winging it.


On my 13 there was a recall for the water pump. I got the letter in august and it started leaking in october per my records.

EDIT: super cool you can just paste in a screen shot.



That’s nice. I’m sure it’s the exact same pump in the CC but no recall for us.




Lame indeed. Mine was leaking at about 45k miles if memory serves me. Replaced with the ‘old’ part and when the recall hit, despite mine being fine, they replaced it again with the ‘new’ part. Been fine ever since.

Oil changed and service indicator light reset last night. trans fluid this weekend if I find the time, and 4 corner brake job next month.

Still unsure if I will tackle the timing chain on this car. Will do some more research.


Cool. Let us know what you figure out.

Speaking of brakes Im shocked Im still on the OEM parts. I use the brakes hard , a lot, and while the front rotors are a bit shitty from the heat, the pads still have a ton of life left at 85k.


Wild, right? 112k and still on the stock front pads and rotors. I replaced the rears about a year ago, and returned the front parts because there was so much life left. Looking forward to a 4 corner job and brake fluid flush.

Not timing chain related, but awesome breakdown of our engine types.

Here’s another link describing the PZEV warranty you mentioned earlier.


Not mentioned earlier, but for FSI engine folks, be very careful to stay on top of your HPFP cam follower. If you have the old ‘tappet’ style, you should check it and replace it often. I believe @juicedz4 and @JayS both have the roller style like me.


Bump. I jinxed myself.

Running errands today: Throws P0599 (thermostat Heater Control Circuit High)

I park in a lot, check and reset the code. No drive-ability or temperature issues.

10 minutes later, temp gauge rises, then falls to normal, rises again, falls to normal. Check engine back on again, same code.

Immediately cut errands short and head home. 5-10 minutes later temp gauge rises again but gets very close to red. I pull off, shut down. Upper hose hot, lower hose cooler to touch. Cools to normal temp, so I move the car to a safer location… begins to creep towards red again. Shut down, tow… home.

Water pump? Thermostat. Anyone with experience here. P0599 does’t seem to help pinpoint.


Edit: no leaks, resevoir normal level but hot. Both fans working.


@JayS @juicedz4 @Motocrossx23


No idea man. Maybe @Justin has some knowledge to drop?


ty Jay, appreciated. He’d probably be getting a call to drop it off if I was local.


From what I know about these, I believe they might use an electronically controlled thermostat using pulse width modulated signals from the ecu, so either the wiring or the thermostat is probably going bad. I would not drive it until its fixed because overheating it can damage a lot of expensive stuff. The only other areas of concern about these that I’ve seen besides the coked up intake valves, bad pcv units and coils, are the sudden catastrophic cam chain tensioner failure. I would definintly have it changed before it fails. Usually the chain and guides are ok as long as they aren’t poorly maintained but the tensioners can fail randomly with no warning and all the intake valves get bent. They really aren’t all that expensive and they aren’t too bad to change if you get the crank pulley off and front lower timing cover but you DO need to keep tension on the main chain when pulling the old tensioner or the chain will skip on the cogs.


From what I understand it does use an electronically controlled thermostat but even if the heater portion is bad (bad sensor) it should still function mechanically like a normal thermostat at a certain temp. Certainly not outside of the realm of possibility though.

Keep it coming guys. I’ve got a good Indi shop .3 miles away that I trust to diagnose it Monday but I am all ears in the meantime. May have a week or so to play with as I have another car to use.


Unfortunately I have no info about this. Maybe Ill learn something … heh.

Let us know what you come up with.



Will do. At my trusted indi shop for diagnosis. I’ll have more news later today.


indi shop is at a total loss and isn’t charging me a dime. Nice guys. Heading to Audi tomorrow for Diagnosis. Will advise soon what’s next. Maybe I can stretch them to cover it under PZEV but doubtful.