Good idea in that case I can just turn the hose around b/c I have a 45 on the other end, if I don’t do that I will just go in with a straight.
Quick shot of the car tonight while I was working on the Evo… intake pipe fab starts in the am
Anyone want to guess what this is for?
New starter… it works
Not crazy about this… but it should work. I dont think getting the hood to close is going to be fun
Hint:
nice!!! restrictor is def needed with gt series turbo and b series
SEXAyyyyYYy! :headbang:
Yeah that’s what I thought but I found conflicting threads about it. Some say there is a built in restrictor. Garret says its needed if the system is over 40 PSI which I’m at more then double that lol… I’m a little pissed at Peak for selling me their special fitting knowing what I was using this for. Live and learn!
After a hour of chasing leaks I finally think I got every fitting tight. I got the breaks bled but the two front calibers were not releasing. I knew it wasn’t the calibers I rebuilt them and they are perfect. I looked at the MC and read over the paperwork that didn’t tell me much. I checked the push rod and made sure it was in its rest position when the pedal was out, which it was. Last thing I checked was to make sure I had the proportioning valve routed correctly… I didn’t. I was so careful and deliberate when I went through routing these, It doesn’t really surprise me I got them backwards… The MC to prop valve are going to the front break outs. Shouldn’t be to hard to fix.
Start electrical this weekend… A real small chance I’ll get to fire it up
Good work. There will likely be more little things like this before the end, but it sounds like you are very close!!
Dan
Looks awesome. Can’t believe how much work has gone into this!
:burnout:
why isnt this is NYSPEEDs best threads?
I know there will be…
New UICP and new IAT location
New MAP location
Stock 240’s for start up
So how will this work if there is no vent? If water goes in dosent air need to come out?
Thought this was a cool pic… was bleeding the clutch and I trimmed the WG pipe
Re set - 000000
nice updates, whyd ya move the iat from the manifold to the upper charge pipe?
I read that’s where some tuners prefer it to be. I guess it give a more consistent/ accurate reading?
Here’s another noob question. I try to look this up and I find two or three different ways of doing things which I cant determine as fact or opinion. Here is how I’m going to hook my vacuum lines up. I’m going to leave the top of the WG open, the lower port will go into one side of the boost controller and the other side will go the IC pipe someplace before the TB. Then I will have another line from the intake manifold to the BOV… Correct?
What valve are you using for the boost controller? (sorry if there is a pic I cant see them at work).
If its a 3 port Mac or similar valve, I would plumb it like the pic below, where you utilize both the top and bottom ports of the WG. It should allow for better boost control over the way you described, which would simply bleed boost from the lower port. The way outlined below you are essentially adding to the srping pressure.
The full article is here: http://perrinperformance.com/pages/show/113
EDIT: you are correct about the source for both. BCS should be sourced before the TB and the BOV after.
Dan
Picked one of these up… going to boost by gear
That looks JUST like the MAC solenoid, and probably is. Hopefully you didnt pay much for it. If you look around you can get the MAC valves for like $20.
I would plumb that like the perrin pics. Newman and I both have them plumbed the same way if you wanna check out some pics of how we did it.
Dan
good info and that diagram is dead on 
for some reason i always had better response with a vacuum block and boost signal coming from that
Paid 100 from Evans… Glad to know shops are making 80 bucks every time they sell one.
Got mine from Evans for 100, it did come with a nice bracket and the two barb fittings and filter. Im still pissed I could have gotten one for half that.