thats the easy part! one wire and circuit at a time.
Its not…
Making it neat is the hard part. I’m trying to eliminate whats not needed.
Befor - Driver side headlight harness
After - Removed the wipper, master break level and engine harness junction
Befor - Rear harness
After - Removed the domelight, e-brake light switch and the door switches. Left the seat belt light wire for now.
Im going to leave them unwrapped untill I know everything works.
Parts from Honda.
this all looks very enjoyable…
nice update, i hated rewiring my integra like that, but its all the little details that make a difference
Well the wiring isn’t going to look like I envisioned it. I am basically going to get the car to run so I can try and enjoy it this summer. I will have to clean it up this winter. It wont be seen under the dash anyways but it will bug me knowing its not as neat as it could be. I hooked the battery up and there is some life. I’m going to keep chipping away… time and money is short
New parts -
you know they make smaller battery boxes
This was the smallest cheapest one that would fit the stock battery. Plus I might mount a solenoid in the box also.
My clean rims
Ground
Looks awesome, now start over and swap a K in there.
looking good, whens the tune?
Coming together beautifully!
car’s looking great, man.
:bigtup:
be careful of that battery box, if its not approved they could boot you off the track. I think moroso is the only one that makes a non metallic battery box thats approved. Also, why not switch to a smaller battery, like a deka etx14. Im using one in my accord and it had more than enough juice, you just cant have anything on like your lights on for very long with the engine not running with this battery, itll drain em quick. other than that, if its not a dd, its cheap weight reduction. I paid like $65 for mine, and I guess its the same as a certain model braille battery. Its considerably smaller size and weight wise than the stocker
this, but I’ll go further into it.
That box, the autozone one, isnt technically approved, because it has openings on the bottom of the lid. If you seal them, and take the vent holes in the top, thread fittings into them, and vent them outside the car, like the rule book states, they should not be able to boot you for it, as long as the box and the battery inside of it are securely fastened.
I dont think tape will count to seal those holes.
No
I am going for the end of Aug., but I still dont know who or where Im going. I am going to run Neptune-RTP Demon!
Thank you Sir!
Thanks, where are your updates?
Thanks for the big T
I know about the sealed box rule. I thought I had picked the right one. I dont see this being a big issue for me at the track. If it is I’ll get a diff one… to easy!
Next I need to wire up the relays for the fuel pumps & fan, then wire up the headlights and gauges!
You could go to Rick at BTF Racing in Honeoye http://www.baldturbofreak.com/ (his site is a bit out of date). He just tuned my buddies 500hp GSR using Neptune. He apparently did a great job and is pretty reasonable. I think its $350 for the first 4 hours and $50/hr after. Probably for under $500 you could have a safe and very driveable tune.
Dan
everytime i open this thread, i go from 6 -> 12
he already knows who i recommend, and its who i have had tune my car and a couple people i know from nyspeed drive down to him… he is that good, great prices and very knowledgeable person
i have an appointment next week to fix what “evans” calls a tune