Paid 250 for the Busher ported and coated Ex. Manifold (Evo-M)
100 for the new heat sheild (STM)
28 for OEM Gasket (STM)
28 for new OEM studs and nut kit (STM)
I can sell the stock main for 100… So I think Im doing ok at this end
A week late but my 65mm TB gasket showd up. I need to take the TB off to swap manifolds anyways.
Also got these Mil. Spec Throttle body shaft seals but have no idea where they go?
Got my ported Buscher intake manifold back. I paid 60 for the core and it came with a AIT sensor bung so I bought a sencser for it. Now I can convert to speed density later on.
150 Sent to Buscher for porting
60 for stock core with a AIT bung (Evo-M)
traded a stock intercooler, my stock TB and 100 for the Mil.spec TB (Evo-M)
11 for a new 65mm gasket (Evo-M)
52 for new AEM AIT (STM)
22 for Shaft seals (STM)
36 for a Magnus intake heat barrier gasket (STM)
25 for Intake manifold bolt kit (STM)
Yikes this stuff is adding up. I will have a stock manifold to sell so I can get a few bucks back, Maybe 60-100?
I don’t know a ton about Evo’s but do know quite a bit about DSM’s so I’ll help you where I can. Those 2 lines you were asking about looks to be the power steering cooler. All it is, is the same line that runs behind the FMIC and recirculates back to the pump giving the fluid a little time to cool down before making it’s cycle again. Why did you order Mil-spec shaft seals if they were already installed in the one that you traded for? The shaft seals go where they are properly titled, in the shaft slots. You have to remove the throttle lever and everything else until you get down to just having the body of the TB, the throttle plate and throttle shaft. More than likely you will have to remove the throttle plate and shaft (I know you do on DSM’s) then you can install the seals. I advise you to use some dielectric grease on the seals, no need to be conservative with it either. You will need to use thread locker when putting the throttle plate screws back in through the shaft and peen them. Make sure you do all of this carefully and the correct way. The spring may be a bit of a pain to coil back up but what I would advise is before taking it apart, get a sharpie and draw a straight line from a certain point on the TB across the spring so you know when it has been coiled up back to where it needs to go. What is the exhaust manifold coated in? Doesn’t look like a ceramic coating to me.
That’s a good point… I bought the seals before I new I was trading, thinking that I was going to send my TB out to get bored. I guess I will keep those around as spares. Not sure what coating is on the manifold. It should be a Buschur and he calls his jet coated?
the tire wear is probably because the car was aligned with the megan coilovers, or never aligned at all
you went from stock to megan back to stock lol. something has to be off
I pasted this patch into my flash for the EGR. Now I just need to see if it works!
A value of “0” disables the EGR system and sets the EGR duty to 0% all the time.
This was set to 1.
<table name=“EGR System Enable/Disable” category=“Emissions EGR” address=“103D” type=“1D” level=“2” scaling=“uint8”/>
I reflashed the change this morning but the service engine light is still on. I’m going to try taking it down to AutoZone at lunch and see if when they clear the codes the light will stay off. Thinking about buying Evo Scan its 25 bucks and seems like I can do a lot with it, like clear codes and data log.
