Small bathroom remodel

NYSpeed Automotive NYSpeed Off Topic
1

Started our downstairs remodel by fixing the out of service 1/2 bath that was down there.

Step 1: Hired Franks Basement Systems to come in and address 4 vertical cracks where water would seep through during heavy rains/melt. They did an epoxy injection that went all the way through to the exterior wall + a sealing/redirect into the drain tile below then finished it off with a brightwall panel as a last line of defense. Guaranteed for life. :tup:

Step 2: Demo
I can’t find the pictures from when we moved in with the hideous paneling with drop ceiling, and I forgot to take a picture before I ripped it out.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/start2_zps13d47409.jpg

Step 3: Moisture barrier + insulation + framing
Did the 1" polystyrene foam as a vapor barrier/insulation for the 4’ of foundation underground (raised ranch). The rest of the wall already was built out with 2x4’s and insulation so I just buried that wall so it would be level for drywall.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/20121112_194243.jpg

Step 4: Lighting
Went low profile cans with LED fixtures. Really happy with the quality of their light compared to shitty CFL’s and how smoothly they dim.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/20121112_194255.jpg

Step 5: Ceiling
Yay! No more need to work around my giant shop light!
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/20121114_212839.jpg

Step 6: Drywall
Went with Lowes new product, purple, which is both mold/mildew and moisture resistant.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/20121118_200135.jpg

Step 7: Mudding
Oh how I fucking hate you. The sander that attaches to the shop vac + the HEPA filter for my shop vac was a life saver… literally… I would have died from the white lung without it. I’m not scared to do the drywall in the main room downstairs now though because by the end of the bathroom I was getting much better at mudding.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/20121123_191744.jpg

Step 8: Paint and floor leveling compound
Never used liquid floor leveler before. Pretty cool stuff.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/paintandlevel_zps7620dba2.jpg

Step 9: Planning out a floor
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/20121124_144318.jpg

Step 10: Follow the plan
Laid it out so my cut tiles the same size on the left and right. More cutting than doing a full tile on one side and cut on the other but looks better that way.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/20121201_160830-1.jpg

Step 11: Surround tiles, grout
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/20121204_202124-1.jpg

Step 12: Fixtures
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/20121205_205751.jpg

Step 13: Let the wife get the little things
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/jsears77/end1_zps80a00428.jpg

Step 14: Sand down the door frame, paint it white, new 6 panel door with brushed nickel hardware.
Apparently not pictured. Will update tonight.

I’m really happy with how it turned out. This was my first time doing the following:
Framing out a wall
Working with polystyrene insulation
Drywall
Recessed lights
Tile flooring
Soldering copper plumbling
Installing a toilet

When I hung the drywall I left it about 1/2" above the cement floor. The reasoning behind the surround tiles instead of the much easier/cheaper wood molding was this bathroom is in my basement and since moving 11 years ago that toilet has overflowed slightly twice due to the main line clogging (roots issue). With the way I’ve made the room it’s basically a waterproof tub so any minor overflow can simply be mopped up.

2

Wow looks a shitload better. Looking to do this in my basement as well.

3

mine has crept up a little bit a few times too when it POURS and just left a little trickle of water over the brim.

4

Yeah, my toilet issues were never rain related, always roots getting into the line and clogging it. Now I’ve been dumping rootx in there once every couple summers and hasn’t happened since.

5

Bahahahahahaha +1

Looks good. I think I did the exact same tile and grout combo in a bathroom in my last house. I put the same vanity in my half bath in my new house. You’ve got good taste.

I like the tile surround too.

6

Here’s a tip… when soldering shut off valves onto copper open them and then wrap them with a wet rag. The rag will keep the valve cool enough that you don’t melt the little inside bits that make the valve work. Also, never turn the water back on if you’re using fancy 1/4 turn to full open shut off valves until you have your fixtures hooked up. It’s very easy to bump them while you’re working and open then 1/4 turn. Learning both of these lessons resulted in mopping up water and needing to change my clothes.

7

I was recently eyeing up that same vanity LOL.

8

$99 home depot black friday. Vanity + top. Same one at Lowes is $259 right now.

9

I just installed that vanity in a bathroom last night! They are still $99 at HD right now. I actually might go grab a few more for rentals. Very nice job man :tup:

10

About time you decided on one.

Good job, looks nice. :tup:

11

It was the one of the other bathrooms. I am still on the fence for the one you are talking about. Really disappointing options for 36" vanities.

12

Looks nice. Think I used that exact same tile in a recent bath project. Future tips:

On the beveled drywall seam, use screws in the bevel part of the seam. Less screws to mud / sand.
If you disassemble the finish valves you can guarantee no damage when sweating.
If you want to save a lot of time, and money, try PEX plumbing. Most don’t have the two tools you need to use it but they’re reasonably priced if you plan on doing more. I’d let people borrow mine if they wanted to.

Came out really nice. Bet that toilet was fuckin heavy though?!

13

I started out putting the screws in the beveled edge. The problem I was having was they were really difficult to counter sink without the drywall making a small raised dimple around the screw, about the size of a penny. It’s like the drywall was much stiffer where the bevel was, which if I had to guess is because they simply squash the edge in during manufacturing causing it to be more dense than the rest. In hindsight I guess because it was beveled they only needed to be flush not sunk since the bevel gets filled with mud anyway.

The new valves I had didn’t come apart or I would have just taken them apart before soldering. I shouldn’t have much more plumbing to do but if I do I’ll look into PEX.

I was originally going to do crown molding but I was so proud of how clean all my drywall corners came out I didn’t want to hide them. First thing I say when people come over to check it out is, “look at those corners… they are MAGNIFICENT!”. :slight_smile:

14

Nice job on it. I was wondering about the tile trim, good idea though.

15

You soldered on valves? Why not just use compression ones?

16

looks good dude :tup:

17

Looks great. Nice job.

They make 3/8" brass compression caps for the valves that I usually use as a safety if the handle happens to get bumped.

18

I solder on npt fittings and always thread on valves. I hate leaky valves… Having to resolder one would push me over the edge.

19

You’ll probably want to put a GFCI near the sink. Even if you don’t think you’ll use it right off the bat, it’ll be better (and safer) than running an extension cord if you have guests that decide to shave, curl their hair, ect.

20

Re: soldered valves… Existing lines weren’t threaded and didn’t feel like (or have the tools to) threading them. Besides, once I learned what I was doing soldering them on took no time at all.

Re: gfci… Definitely on the list. The old combination medicine cabinet/light had an outlet on it and I didn’t really think about it until I was done and went, “why isn’t there an outlet in here”. I have full access to the other side of the wall so adding it is a 30 minute job max.