SPUTTERING blacktop

About a month ago my s13 blacktop sr started sputtering really bad as soon as it starts making boost. The car will pop and bang on idle shakes bad. This problem literally happened over night. So what I’ve done so far is I changed the maf and the first one I put on my car wouldn’t stay running for more then 2 seconds. So I bought a brand new Isis z32 (which my car is tuned for) and now my car stays running but it still sputters. I’ve replaced the plugs. I’ve put a brand new aem 320lph fuel pump. Used to have walbro. I’ve put brand new cts sensor. Had a friend try adjusting and retarding the timing. I’ve checked all vacuum lines. Replaces all clamps with tbolts. Checked fuel filter checked coils. Don’t see anything electrically bad now bare wires or rubbed. My Ecu is flashing code 55. This problem is gonna be the death of me. Can someone please help as this is my first sr and I’m still learning!

I had the same problem, Check voltage at your battery on idle, if its under 14, its probably the battery light wire that runs to your dash

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So how tight are your turbo nuts to manifold?

Are you sure that it’s not leaking there/failed gasket?

I’ve checked its fine

Last time I had an issue where the car would run fine until I asked for boost that was my issue, and is a fairly common issue. Only reason I mentioned it.

What turbo and manifold?

Do you own a boost leak testerv

The car sputters and sounds like it’s missing on idle aswel an im running a greddy td06 20g turbo on a top mount manifold not sure the brand. And yes I still need to test for leaks

You mentioned larger fuel pump but have you checked and corrected the pressure?

When I bought the car it already had a 255 and was tuned and I drove it fine all summer absolutely no issues every day then when the sputtering started I figured the fuel pump was one of the issues so I replaced it but it still sputters I just checked fuel pressure not even 5 minutes ago and on idle it sits at 44psi

Check for grounding of the coilpacks, they are originally grounded to v-cover, which is grounded to engine body. This is not the best way though as it needs to be really good, for stable engine start and idle. Chek that, it is also a good idea to connect the coilpacks grounding to “-” terminal directly on your battery. It’s natural that it happens in winter as stuff corrodes.

i I haven’t drove it in the snow this thing has had this problem for about 2 months now just literally happened over night one day I started the car an it did this I have no checked the coil ground but my battery is trunk relocated idk if that matters.